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New member Username: Subquestions101Post Number: 1 Registered: Apr-08 | Hey, I'm new to car audio but have a basic grasp of it from my research, I've gotten conflicting advise so I can here to post and settle it. My question is about running some component speakers (Clif Designs Two 4x6's RMS 60watt 4Ohm + Two 6x9's 120RMS 4Ohm) off a 4channel amp (yet to purchase but have scouted it out). Looking @ a Sony XM-754 HX 4 Channel Amp. ( http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Sony_XM-754HX/ ) its specs are as follows: Output Power at 14.4V (20Hz ∼ 20kHz): .High Current Mode: 4 x 35W @ 4 ohms (0.04% THD) 4 x 50W @ 2 ohms (0.1% THD) 2 x 100W @ 4 ohms bridged (0.1% THD) 1 ohm stereo / 2 ohms bridged stable .High Voltage Mode: 4 x 75W @ 4 ohms (0.04% THD) 4 x 100W @ 2 ohms (0.1% THD) 2 x 200W @ 4 ohms bridged (0.1% THD) THD: ≤0.005% (1kHz, 4 ohms) Freq. Response: 5Hz ∼ 50Khz (+.05/-.5 dB) Fuse: 40A I'm already running a Rockford Fosgate 100z2 (Bridged 160watts/26.6amp drawn @ max) into a 10" Universal sub (175watt) so no concern about sub wiring here. It was a sweet deal @ the Pawn, $85 with a box too! As I understand it the High Current/High Voltage mode mentioned on the Sony specs above is auto selected based on the incoming voltage (which to my understanding is determined by the voltage from the head receiver correct?) if so any idea as which mode the amp will run under ? I have a Clarion DB175MP deck. I was hoping it would run on High Volts mode, can anybody confirm this? The Spec for deck is as follows... http://www.clarion.com/us/en/products/2007/audio/source_unit/CD/DB175MP/us-en-pr oduct-pf_1165294998475.html CEA 2006 Power Ratings 21W × 4RMS [4Ω@14.4V ≤1% THD+N] S/N 87dB (Ref:1W into 4Ω) Now if I can't run the above mentioned amp in High Voltage mode can I then hook up my Four 4 Ohm speakers by bridging channels 1/2 + 3/4 up with out concerns about damaging either? To my understanding this would create a 2 Ohm load on each of the bridge channels. Is that safe? Keeping in mind i intend to run the whole thing with HighPass filtering. Thanks for any advice |
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New member Username: Subquestions101Post Number: 2 Registered: Apr-08 | Additionally, anybody know the general number of watts a car generally requires for itself? I believe the alternator (2months old, bought after other failed of old age, had no system) outputs around 80 Amps. As I understand it cars I've been told use about 30 Amps themselfs, audio aside. So my current amp is max 26Amps draw. (156watt / 6 = 26) The above mentioned Amp puts out 400 max (400 / 6 = 66Amps). 66 + 26 = 92amps = I need a CAP or a better Alterator? Is my math correct? Also any opinion what would be best? I can get any of these at a good price (from 75 to 175ish).... XM-754 HX RF 200.4a RF 400.4a RF 600.4a RF 800.4a I'd like to avoid dropping any amp that would require I by another battery or CAP. Thanks again. P.S. I'm leaning on the RF side to match my 100.z2 - thoughts? any of this a good deal? |
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Gold Member Username: •cam•BC Canada Post Number: 2442 Registered: Nov-06 | Why are you dividing by 6? Remember that they MIGHT draw the full amperage on peaks but your battery will handle those. I had probably 120-150A total possible draw on a 55A alternator and I could hold 12.5V on most songs with it cranked. Never got below 12V besides with tones. Sony doesn't have the greatest reputation in car audio. Their old stuff was supposed to be more than decent though. I would imagine that the HV/HC mode would be selected based on the voltage at the power supply of the amp, not to the remote turn on terminal. Most treble amps won't do 2 ohms bridged because that becomes a 1 ohm load on each channel basically. |