ok yea will drain ur battery and is lazy but.. if u dont mind have xtra wire or sometime easy to didssconnect when u get out have ur remote and power hookee dto ghter will make ur system better dids for years eventualy got a lil better and hook up right way .... ooo yea 10 battery didnt once amonth because for got to diddconnect when got out lol
I've been running it that way for approximately 2 weeks now... never drained my battery one bit! Do you guys even know what your'e talking about? Not to be rude, but - no b,u,l,l,s,h,i,t please. Will it F,U,C,K up my amp in any way shape or form?
"I've been running it that way for approximately 2 weeks now... never drained my battery one bit! Do you guys even know what your'e talking about? Not to be rude, but - no b,u,l,l,s,h,i,t please. Will it F,U,C,K up my amp in any way shape or form?"
First of all - Don't be a douche bag. These people are trying to help you and you're insulting them??! That's a good way to either be ignored, or intentionally given bad advice.
These are the facts. 1) Your amp will be fine. 2) All amps draw "idle current" when they're powered on but not receiving a music signal. Some amplifiers will draw less than one amp, some are 2A or more. A good battery has a reserve capacity of about 100 minutes. That is the time for which it can maintain a voltage of 10.5v while producing 25A. If you're only drawing 1A you'd get 2500 minutes, or about 100 hrs.
Let your car sit for a few days, then see if it starts.
Optidriven: Well, let me start by saying this... I'm a very polite person (and I have always been on this website). Why don't you read what I wrote again and then apologize for calling me a douche bag? Obviously, nobody stated anything to clarify or explain what they were trying to say (which you did very well, i might add - thank you, by the way... you obviously know what you're talking about). All that was said was it'll drain my battery. I noticed that it wasn't exactly an accurate statement from first hand experience... so I posted...
Now, listen... NOT TO BE RUDE... AND WITH ALL DUE RESPECT... I know very well that people are trying to help me... I'm sure very well that the above posters didn't take any offense to my post (for the record - no offense intended whatsoever and if I was misunderstood - I'm sorry)... as for you, Optidriven: this is all it takes to start S,H,I,T with a person - wouldn't you agree?
Its a shame that it takes a little bit of confrontational conversation to spark an intelligent and thorough answer for someone. Would you have answered so clearly had I not questioned the validity of their statements with badwords?? If so... why didn't you do it when i asked the first time.
I guess what I want now is: for you to tell me WHO is the douche bag? ... or was it all a misunderstanding? I'll settle for that.
Lol, awesome thread. Sean, if you're going to hook up your amp that way there's nothing wrong but what you should do is run two wires, one from your amp's power input and another from your remote input and run them near your driver's seat and put a switch at the end of your power wire and then attach the remote wire to the other end and you can turn your amplifier(s) on and off as needed. Problem solved! This is how I usually do it when using a stock head unit.
"Why would you use a switch when you can wire it to the ignition wire and have the amp(s) turn on automatically"
You don't think outside the box do you? Sometimes you don't always want your amplifier(s) on. Sometimes when I'm running my 4 15s I decide it sounds too shitty on a certain song so I shut down 2 of the subs and amplifiers through switches and it sounds much cleaner. My friend shares a car with his mom and she doesn't want to hear subs beatin in the back so I installed a switch for him so he can turn it on and off as wanted/needed.
Ms. : Why in the hell would I want to try that? Fine - if I don't use my van... it'll drain the battery - UNDERSTOOD! (the only reason why I understand that is because it was EXPLAINED to me recently).
which brings me to my main point... NOBODY EXPLAINED WHAT THEY WERE SAYING UNTIL OPTIDRIVEN STARTED GETTING ALL S,H,I,T,T,Y WITH ME! It's not that hard to see this whole thread on a timeline - you know? Come on!!!
1. I asked 2. they gave me answers which were black and white. 3. from 1st hand experience their black and white answers appeared to be inaccurate. 4. I posted my findings and requested some indepth professional assistance 5. opti started s,h,i,t by calling names and just being a basic jerk 6. i aknowledged the fact that the information could be true (once it had been explained) - i made sure to clarify no offense intended by what i said - then, once i had cleared all that up... i figured opti would see that he misinterpreted my comment and would maybe withdraw his... otherwise it would make clear who the jerk really was. 7. opti clarified very well. 8. Ms. added his little tid-bit (which by the way was totally useless) - YOU CAN'T DISPUTE THAT INTERPRETATION, CAN YOU? 9. Rob posted an awesome suggesiton! Thanks, Rob. Good idea. YOU, MY FRIEND ARE A PERFECT EXAMPLE OF THE PROFESSIONAL OPINION I WAS LOOKING FOR. THANK YOU VERY MUCH.
so... if anybody else wants to be a jerk - it's cool... what do I care, really? If anything it'll bring more attention to the thread and hopefully more intelligent people will give more intelligent input related to the topic.
I can safely say that i don't care to hear any more of your opinions, opti (you too ms.) - but if you MUST post... well, it's a free country. I'll tell you right now, I know you're just gonna try to start more s,h,i,t. I'm not looking for that. I can't reach out and kick your a,s,s - so why even start s,h,i,t!? I just want help with my problem.
sorry ecoustics members... you know i love this website!
Hahahaha. See, now heres where you're wrong: what optidriven and I said IS accurate.
Rob: I use the HU's sub level control, can turn subs all the off or just adjust the level. No sense in putting switches in when it's built into the HU.
yeah, BRO... i KNOW what you said about the battery turns out to be accurate (or so I believe you now, that is)
i told you that
dude... quit it already, please. you know i could've been all greatful for you clarifying things for me... but before i had a chance to - you both started mouthing off.
enough bs - please
OPTIDRIVEN AND MS... PLEASE OOOOOOH PLEASE FORGIVE ME... FOR I AM NOT WORTHY OF YOUR ADVISE - I SEE THAT NOW... geeeeeeeesh lol
there... better? not trying to start more s,h,i,t... just trying to bring humor (although this thread IS pathetically humorous already)
what more can a guy do? geeeeeeesh
also, what if the head unit doesn't have that feature, Ms.? then are switches ok? THEN would Rob be ok suggesting it? lol just wondered...
so thanks for your answers everyone. anybody else who can contribute some accurate info in regards to the subject... thanks very much.
"Rob: I use the HU's sub level control, can turn subs all the off or just adjust the level. No sense in putting switches in when it's built into the HU."
If his remote from his head unit worked don't you think he would just wire it that way in the first place? Use your head bro. STOCK HUs do not have the features that you speak so that's the reason for a SWITCH If it were as simple as using features on a head unit believe me... I wouldn't waste my time running wire and a switch. Not everyone has an aftermarket head unit M.S. . Your post was kind of stupid if you think about it M.S. .
Oh and for your future knowledge there is a great reason to have switches. I have my volt meter and 5 amplifiers on switches. 3 switches total for now, 1 is for the voltmeter, 1 is for 1 4channel amp and 2 mono amps and the 3rd switch is for the other 2 amplifiers. Sometimes having 4 15s and 6-7K RMS is just too much and makes everything shake horribly even with my cut-off at 31.5hz so I shut down two of the mono amplifiers and via a switch and that leaves a 4-channel amplifier and 2 mono amplifiers running. You're probably thinking "Why doesn't he just turn the sub level down?" I have a JVC HU and the subs "turn on" with the level at 1 and it's too loud with the sub level at 1 and 0 is absolutely nothing so the switch from 4 to 2 subs makes plenty of sense.
