Alright, so yesterday I got a 2006 Pontiac G6. Well I am eventually going to put a good system in it consisting of 2 12" Type Rs with Type R components and all that good stuff, but for right now til I can afford all that I am planning on throwing in my Older 2 10" Type-S's. But here is my question, I have 2 10" Type S of course, a MRD-M605 Mono-D amp. Output of 600w rms, and these subs are rated 300rms each...even though they could prolly take a little more. But I was looking in my trunk this morning and I noticed that there is a fuse box back there. This isnt just tiny fuses, I noticed 3 relays also in there. In my previous car I had these subs and that amp hooked up to an 8 gauge wire, and it did great. So I was wondering if I could run my power wire and my ground to that fuse box. Would that not be sufice for the amp? I know its 12v fuses, and there is several fuses so I figured the wire running back there to the fuse box is gotta be decent size. So would it hurt to just hook my amp up to that?
Alright, so i kinda answered my own question by looking on google...but I dont know where to hook up the remote wire too...cause im wanting to keep the stock HU. For now anyway
Idk about the type S bein able to take over 300 watts each. they felt a lil over rated when i had a pair. i would make sure the gains were turn way down. i had the exact setup you had, but with 12's and 600w seemed way too much. i know i didnt answer your original question, but just wanted to let ya know
the easiest way to get your remote wire in that car is to find a fuse in the rear panel that is on switched power. With the factory radio you wont be able to cut the subs on and off anyway and that is just one less wire you have to deal with.
well i have had these subs and amp for almost a year so i have a good idea about the power handling on them, but i was just wonder if it should all work out this way. i just cant find any wiring diagrams or anything like that to know if there is a switched fuse back there.
if you have a multimeter just test them and see which ones read 0 with the car off and 12 with the switch in the ACC spot...if you dont have one you can usually find a pretty good cheap one
agreed...the wire running to the fuse box is probably designed just to be enough for whats running off of the fuse. save the trouble down the road and run an extra wire.
also, you should come stick around and learn some stuff while you are saving money up for a new system. i know you can do better than type r subs and components...
well i dont have a problem putting the power wire in. i took the 4 gauge out of my old car before i sold it, so I still have the wire. But what about those little scosche slc4 convertors. Couldnt I splice into my rear speaker wires and mount that box in my trunk to run my amp off the convertor? I can do that right? I have seen some guy on a G6 fourm posted a write up install where he did that, even posted pictures.
But once I get the money for my new system, im gonna completly redo all this. I am only putting this in here temp for my daily bass fix...gotta have it.
and reece, what are you talking about better...like what? I like the SQ of alpine, and I want a decent SQ system that I will mainly run my iPod from. HU with FULL iPod controls too. s
i don't understand where you're going with this "But what about those little scosche slc4 convertors. Couldnt I splice into my rear speaker wires and mount that box in my trunk to run my amp off the convertor?"
If youre talking about line output converters that have RCA outputs on one side they will work, you might have a little noise with them but if youre just looking for a daily fix you shouldnt have a problem at all. Alpine HU's are very good and their subs and amps are good as well but I think what theyre saying is you can do better as far as SQ and build quality for the price.
splice into the rear speaker wires and mount the converter back there between the speakers. hook a mono channel amp to the rear speaker outs. and if i had noise, could i use a (forgot whats its called) ground loop isolator? or something like that
yea...I doubt you will hear much noise in subs...I was thinking about 4 channel setups off of LOC's. I know it doesnt make sense but we have people come in to circuit city that want it done like that lol.
I figured those things wouldnt work all that well...I have mine sitting in my car, but I cant wire it up yet cause its raining...and I have no garage. If this thing works well, I may just do my new system of stock HU cause I like how my HU shows whats called DIC (driver info center) showing MPG, 2 Tripometers, Fuel range, oil life, and my average speed. But if i can find a nice HU that has a 5v pre-out, iPod hook ups, and is DIC compatible, I will get it for sure.
if you have all that run through your HU, you may have a lot of stuff running through there, which is gonna require the GM Data integration harness that I think we sell for about 100 bucks. Its straight forward to install and makes navigation easy as hell to install. The easiest way to tell is to open the door with the key in and see whether or not your chime comes from the front left speaker. If it comes from the speaker you need the data harness.
the chime sounds like it is coming from something inside the dash...it doesnt sound like the front left speaker. but im posting in the Head Unit area also, trying to see if i can find a head unit that will utilize my Driver Information Center thing, but I will prolly end up replacing my stock HU with an Alpine iDA-X001 as soon as I can afford it.
well got it all wired up and working yesterday...a little disappointed in it. But it works, with very little feed back...decent SQ. will do for my bass fix til i get my new system..but I will definatly be replacing the HU.
