I paid $500 for my American Bass 3000w amp (great quality and true 3000w rms) used for one day and that was a GREAT deal.......... a new amp will be more than that.
"^^^^ X2, you're looking at $300-$1000 in electrical upgrades if you're running more than ~1000w"
I thought that depended on your amps efficiency? I'm running ~2000rms @ 13.7-14v no problem at all with only big 3 and spare battery. There are people on this forum that run more than 1k on a stock alt with no $300-1000 electrical upgrades.
i am going to buy a 200 amp alt no matter what amp i get. now i rum about 2000 rms between my comps 6x9's 8's and 12's and my head lights dont dim that much and i dont even have the big three.
" Im running about 1200rms from my saz1500 and i have nearly no voltage drops at all on my stock 105amp alt. "
It depends somewhat on amplifier efficiency, but you can only push a stock alt so far. A sundown SAZ-1500d is an exceptionally efficient amplifier, one of the exceptions to the general rule........
my stock alt is 130 amp and i plan to run an orion 2500d plus my kicker zx700.5 off of it until it blows up. then im going to upgrade. what kind of alt should i get though? i want somthing cheap but that will supply the current i need. i am also going to wire everything with 0 ga wire and get a cap for my sub amp if i need to.
You'd have to watch how small a pulley you put on there, you don't want to spin it too fast...... and then you'd need a shorter belt as well. The stock pulley is the size it is for a reason......
sorry i was out last night and missed your post but i drive a 2000 chrysler 300M (not the one that looks like a bently) it has a high output 3.5L engine. so if i dont have the H/O alt i will clip my amp? wouldnt it just not put out the correct ammount of power? i thought that my alt would just fry after a while of trying to draw all of its current at one time. wouldnt a cap allow me to not need a second battery? im not really good with charging systems because i have never had to upgrade it before so info on this would be very helpful. thanks.
1000w is about the most you can safely run on a stock alternator in most cases.
Cpacitors do not help.
Batteries don't do much either unless you're playing the the engine off such as at comps.
If you're going to run 2500w you need an HO alternator. Trying to run 2500w on a stock alt will cause your amp to clip and fry your subs, and possibly blow the amp, before it damages the alternator.
you run COMPONENTS, 6x9's, 8's and 12'????? lol a lot of overlap i'd say. Unless they are all at different cuttoffs. Cut that back to just your comps and 12's and it'll problably sound better and be louder.
yea i run a lot of stuff. my comps have very poor midbass thats why i bought 8's (plus i got an amazing deal i couldnt pass up and they look really sweet installed in my rear deck) i also usually roll pretty deep and have ppl in the back hence my need for the 6x9's (the 6x9's are also nice when i watch movies on my portable dvd player or play xbox its straight up surround sound) and i love ground pounding bass hence the 12's.
I am running a 2100.1 mmatts amp on a avalanche. I could tell you yes my lights do dimm stock alt. I've also clipped my XXX to death. Mark there is no such thing as cheap powerful HO/Amp/Sub. If that was the case everyone will own one.
Mark, you make no sense. first you don't wanna get alphas cause you don't wanna get the amp to power them, yet now you're looking for ~3000wrms and it seems you're trying to find the cheapest(non existant) way to run it safely....you confuse me.
theives fyi this is an old thread and i stopped looking at this amp after about 2 seconds cuz i realized it is trash pretty much. i already bought an american bass xd 2000 too and thats the amp i am keeping. and i am most likely going to buy the sx's
JMO!!!!!!
