Installation Help :-)

 

Bronze Member
Username: Audiosaab

Potomac, MD

Post Number: 70
Registered: Nov-07
Hey everyone, i got in my subwoofer equipment yesterday and am attempting to do a self installation....seeing as how this is my first i need alot of help obviously from everyone on here :-) So far i have recived my box being a Q-Logic Dual Vented and Bandpass enclosure (http://www.mainstreet-audio.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code =VENTED12D) coming with 2 mounting rings, mounting screws, and 2 speaker leads.....the subwoofers i bought were 2 Alpine 12" Type R subwoofers 4ohm (SWR 1242D) which came with the woofers, 2 mounting rings, and 2 red banana plugs and 2 black banana plugs (which i have no idea what they are) any who....im looking to mount the subwoofers to this box and am not sure how to do it (wiring and all) i have the speaker leads connected to the inside of the box but am not sure what to do about connecting them to the woofers themselve due to the fact that they have strange endings on them one which fits perfectly to the box's connectors and the otherside with the same ending but would be strange to connect to the subwoofer itself....i also wanted to know when mounting do i need to caulk down the subwoofer as well as screw it in or will screwing it in be enough....thanks for any help and sorry this was so long...
 

Platinum Member
Username: Bestmankind

IM THE REAL SLIM SHADY

Post Number: 16426
Registered: Oct-05
you use the banana plugs to wire the voice coils together. the manual that came with the subs should tell you how to wire it to a certain ohm.

example. + to + and - to - would give you a 2ohm load.

what kinda amp do you have?

also i believe you push in on the terminals on the sub and it will expose a hole for the stripped cable to go through.

please next time can you type in paragraphs when writing a novel? lol. jp man.

good luck on the insall.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Davidt487

Texas

Post Number: 44
Registered: Dec-07
What kind of amp do you have for it?
 

Gold Member
Username: Tatonka

-[Team Audib...

Post Number: 1243
Registered: Mar-07
Do what Chad said.
And no, you don't have to caulk around the sub, just screw it in.
But you aren't going to get the most out of those subs with that box. It is a good starter system, but if you hang around here for a bit, maybe in the future you could build your own box, or get someone on the forums to build it for you :-) Good choice on the subs though man. And good luck with your install. If you have any more questions, there is someone always on this forum willing to help.

Nick V
 

Bronze Member
Username: Audiosaab

Potomac, MD

Post Number: 71
Registered: Nov-07
Im going to be using a Hifonics Brutus 1606D class Mono amp, thought it will not be running at its fully "rms peak" rating that it says it has it will be pushing each sub at around 650-700 rms or so as far as i know

lol sorry chad, like i said sorry for the long (donkeyed lol) paragraph, and i think im looking to wire it in parallel but what if i wanted to hit them at 1 ohm each, you have to remeber this is still a first time for me so im a bit weary on the install process...and i should strip the cable then on the other side? because the weird endings for the speaker leads fit in the sub but ive never seen it done like that b4
 

Bronze Member
Username: Audiosaab

Potomac, MD

Post Number: 72
Registered: Nov-07
Thanks Nick, and i know about the box not being the best for it...i had begun a fiberglass creation but am still learning how to add a port to a fiberglass enclosure so overtime i may switch over....for now the fact that this box is vented and i have a saab 900se 96 hatchback, the sound should be more than loud enough hitting out of the vent and off of the giant back hatchback window :-) should be fun though and im looking to learn wiring as of now.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Bestmankind

IM THE REAL SLIM SHADY

Post Number: 16428
Registered: Oct-05
ok i assume your amp is 1ohm stable.

take the red banana plug and connect both positives together. then you do the same for the negative.

then take the + cable from your box and connect it the + on the sub. push in the terminal to expose the hole. then you take the - cable from the box and connect it to the - on the sub. i know there are 2 sets of + and -. just take the + from one voice coil and the - from the other voice coil.

now do the same for your other sub.

then from connect both + cable from your box to the + terminal on the amp and same for the -. that should do it.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Audiosaab

Potomac, MD

Post Number: 73
Registered: Nov-07
wait so r the banana plugs for the amp then? im sitting directly next to the box and subs right now, what should i strip the wires with by the way? and thanks for the voice coil recommendations ill stick to that.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tatonka

-[Team Audib...

Post Number: 1244
Registered: Mar-07
Hey Pimp, if you haven't already bought that amp, you might want to consider one that will do that power at 2 ohms. See, your subs can only wire down to 2 ohms or up to 8 ohms because of the fact that the voice coils on the sub are Single 4OHM.

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17535
That amp will do 1200 at 2 ohms. So each sub will receive 600watts. The hifoncs will probably do 900 at 2 ohms (hifonics is over rated)
 

Platinum Member
Username: Bestmankind

IM THE REAL SLIM SHADY

Post Number: 16429
Registered: Oct-05
if my memory serves me correctly, i believe this is how the type R connects. they may have changed it with the new model. not sure. last time i had type R's was a couple of years ago.

but if this is what it looks like kinda, this is how you want to wire it.

type r.JPG
 

Platinum Member
Username: Bestmankind

IM THE REAL SLIM SHADY

Post Number: 16432
Registered: Oct-05
nick he has 2 type r's that are dual 4ohms. that means he can either have a final ohm load of 1 or 4ohms.
 

Gold Member
Username: Tatonka

-[Team Audib...

Post Number: 1247
Registered: Mar-07
Oh Chad, I think I read it wrong lol. I thought they were single 4

"2 Alpine 12" Type R subwoofers 4ohm "
 

Bronze Member
Username: Audiosaab

Potomac, MD

Post Number: 75
Registered: Nov-07
hmm so what exactally does it mean to run it at 1 ohm because from what it shows it pumps alot more to each subwoofer that to run it at a 4 or 2 ohm...and knowing that the D class amp i am getting is 1 ohm stable id like to push it a bit.....anyways aside from this right now im just trying to figure out how to put the wiring from the internals of the sub box into the subwoofers themselves...i may post picks jus so people can give me a step by step to get it done
 

Platinum Member
Username: Bestmankind

IM THE REAL SLIM SHADY

Post Number: 16443
Registered: Oct-05
yeah that is a good idea. post pics of the terminals on the subs and stuff. plenty of people here that will guide you through it.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Audiosaab

Potomac, MD

Post Number: 76
Registered: Nov-07
yeah, ill try and post them up tommrow, till then thanks for all the help thus far. :-D
 

Bronze Member
Username: Audiosaab

Potomac, MD

Post Number: 77
Registered: Nov-07
hey so i figured out wtf im supposed to do with the banana wires thanks to the help of the picture above and the manual, now im curious because i know where each speaker wire should connect to the sub, but i was wondering...is it possible to run both subwoofers in the same box but with 2 seperate terminals on each side of the box...at a 1ohm with only one amp? or is that not possible?...also if im connecting the wires from the box to the sub itself before placing it in and screwing it in, should the wires going into the sub be just plain old speaker wire..or is there a certain addon that should be on the end, because the speaker wires i have have the same endings as the side that just slips onto the metal prongs connected to the box
 

Gold Member
Username: Nd4spd18

Northwest PA

Post Number: 5120
Registered: Jul-06
When mounting the subs, caulk is not the best thing to use for sealing around them. I recommend using rubber weatherseal tape from the hardware store. (I use that on all of my installations)
 

Bronze Member
Username: Audiosaab

Potomac, MD

Post Number: 78
Registered: Nov-07
m.s would just screwing in still work, im using qx rings in between the sub and the box so it should be air tight......again id like to ask if i am able to use the weird endings or if i should just strip the wire and connect it to the subs
 

Bronze Member
Username: Audiosaab

Potomac, MD

Post Number: 79
Registered: Nov-07
also, before this all begins...would i need a new alternator for this amp if im trying to run the speakers at a 1ohm state? with a current alternator of 90amps? And if so does anyone know where to get one for a saab to hold it and how much amps it needs? http://cgi.ebay.com/HIFONICS-BRUTUS-BXi1606D-1600W-Mono-Car-Amplifier-Amp_W0QQit emZ220168519587QQihZ012QQcategoryZ64570QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
^ the amp im buying ^ except in a different auction
 

Bronze Member
Username: Audiosaab

Potomac, MD

Post Number: 80
Registered: Nov-07
....helpppp
 

Platinum Member
Username: Rovin

4 10 Pioneer...

Post Number: 12673
Registered: Jul-05
wire up each sub like chad said

even if the box has 2 terminals still wire it up like the diagram & simply connect the 2+ & 2_ wires to the amp

u dont any caulking since the rubber ring around those Rs will make it airproof

90A alt should be alright however it would be nice if u can upgrade ur stock batt to a good audio batt like optima or kinetic ....
 

Bronze Member
Username: Audiosaab

Potomac, MD

Post Number: 82
Registered: Nov-07
alright so the wiring within the box and outside i get, thanks for the tip on the no caulking but with the alternator, your sure i should keep it at the stock 90 when im going to be drawing somewhere around 1550-1600rms from the amp?
 

Platinum Member
Username: Rovin

4 10 Pioneer...

Post Number: 12675
Registered: Jul-05
by the book the proper thing to do is upgrade ur alt if u can afford it now

u can go ahead & install ur set & if u notice too much light blinking (or if there is a voltage meter on ur dash or u have an aftermarket meter mounted somewhere) then obviously that will indicate current needs upgrading...
 

Bronze Member
Username: Audiosaab

Potomac, MD

Post Number: 83
Registered: Nov-07
cool thanks...yeah i can afford it, just cant find anywhere that sells saab alternators....yeah my head unit holds a meter so ill look on that
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