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New member Username: Audio_jasonPost Number: 1 Registered: Nov-07 | Okay guys I just got a 2001 eclipse gt in great condition. Problem is the infinity stereo sucks! So I want to redo the entire system. I have nib 10" jbl gti mkII, xtant x604,x1001. I want to put the sub in a .75 sealed enclosure. I have about 2k to get a head unit, components, 6x9's, and anything else I will need to run two very high powered amps. I have been told I need to get a ho alternator but really have no clue what i'm doing. Any advice would be good. I would like some suggestions on building a clean but powerful top notch audio system. |
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Gold Member Username: •cam•Post Number: 1026 Registered: Nov-06 | Nice. Search Iraggi on eBay for alternators. http://www.ohiogen.com/ http://www.mean-green.com/ I found this extremely useful for tuning: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/index.php?showtopic=4319 Forget the 6x9s, it sounds like you want to do it right. Here's something I copied and pasted a long time ago to a text document, credits go to whoever the h3ll wrote it originally. 1. IID - Inter-aural Intensity Differences 2. ITD - Inter-aural Time Differences 3. HRTF - Head-Related Transfer Function IID and ITD relate to stage width, by which I refer to the localization of sound along the horizontal axis. HRTF relates to stage height, by which I refer to the localization of sound along the vertical axis. IID refers to the difference in sound intensity when compared between the left and right ear. By sound intensity, we are referring to SPL and frequency response. In a very simple sense, if SPL at a given frequency is higher at the left ear than the right, we will interpret the sound as coming from the left side. A practical application of this concept: as the driver, you are usually much closer to the left channel than the right channel and, consequently, SPL at your ears is higher from the left channel than the right. As such, your whole stage will be sound smeared with a strong pull to the left. IID is a dominant part of horizonatl sound localization above 1-2 kHz, roughly around the frequency at which the wavelength becomes shorter than the distance between your right and left ear. Again, a practical application of this concept: you have your tweeters crossed over at 2-3 kHz, and the one on the left side is substantially closer to you than the one on the right. Your stage will obviously be smeared to the left. How to correct this? Using an EQ with L/R capabilities, you'll have to cut above your xover point for the left channels. Use of a balance knob gives you much the same effect (although balance knobs usually work for the channels as a whole rather than a range of frequences). ITD refers to the difference in arrival time between your left and right channel. You may be familiar with another term in the same vein: PLD, or Path Length Differences. In short: you want to minimize the differences in arrival time between your left and right channel. Practical Application: again, as the driver, the whole left channel is usually much closer to you than the right side. The left channel, being the one that arrives at your ear much earlier, can be corrected by utilizing some time alignment to delay the whole left channel. ITD is most dominant in the midbass and midrange. This is a pretty simple concept, I think. IID and ITD are pretty constant: once you have the stage width right, you can swap people in and out all day and have almost zero issues. However, stage height can change from person to person. This is a function of HRTF, which implies that our localization of sound along the vertical axis is dependent on how sound is shaped by our torso, head, pina, etc. The easy way to get stage height is move everything upwards in the vehicle until you've gotten the stage height that you like, but this is not physically very easy to do. So the next best step is to compensate for stage height electronically. By careful adjustments using a L/R EQ, you can manipulate stage height (this is well documented in an AES article if you're interested in more specifics on HRTF inversion and similar ideas). HRTF is most dominant above around 1kHz, so time for another practical application: we create stage height by manipulating speakers whose bandwidth falls above 1kHz. Perhaps you're familiar with the fallacy that the tweeter and midrange should be as close as possible; if we can't localize sounds below 1kHz in the vertical axis, does it really matter if they are right on top of one another? The answer is a resounding no. Now, for the practical application that you're really looking for: your install. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'd guess that your tweeter handles the absolute top end (say, 4kHz or higher?) and your midrange handles where your tweeter leaves off till down to say 200-300 Hz. You'll have to confirm this for me, but we can draw a few conclusions. First, the reason your sound stage sounds down is that your midrange (which does overlap that 1kHz frequency I mentioned as critical to HRTF) is physically installed down lower. How can you correct this? As discussed above, you'll have to EQ these issues out. Your tweeter is also in the kicks right now, so you can either EQ that as well or physically move it up to the a-pillars. The obvious hinderance in moving it up is that you will have to deal with early reflections from the glass and dash; the reflections and diffraction from a kickpanel installation are much easier to manage, in my opinion. You can combat this with a dash mat, though, if you're willing to do so. Either build or have some nice kick pods built, to house a nice component set. Others will be able to suggest sets for you to audition. Here's some fiberglassing info: http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36873 http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38665 Order some Kicker HyperFlex for the amps. It can be found on eBay. knuconceptz.com for RCAs, and speaker wire, although someone might know a better spot. If I think of any more tuning articles, I'll post 'em. |
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New member Username: Audio_jasonPost Number: 8 Registered: Nov-07 | Wow reading that made my head hurt! Thanks though i'm going to read through it again to try to absorb it. |
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Gold Member Username: •cam•Post Number: 1032 Registered: Nov-06 | Yeah, that stuff's invaluable when you're tuning your system. |
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Bronze Member Username: Audio_jasonPost Number: 18 Registered: Nov-07 | Any idea how to hook up a x1001 amp to a dual 6ohms sub? It's 1000 watts at 2ohms and 500 at 4. |
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Gold Member Username: Nd4spd18Northwest PA Post Number: 3958 Registered: Jul-06 | Wire the coils together in parallel for 3 ohms total. You will get 750 watts from the amp. That's the only way to wire it. |
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Bronze Member Username: Audio_jasonPost Number: 20 Registered: Nov-07 | Perfect. Thanks M.S. Now how do I hook up my cdt hd-642's with my x604. I'm pretty sure those are the ones i'm gonna get. |