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Silver Member Username: Impala63ragDD 9512s , Orion d5000 Post Number: 761 Registered: Sep-06 | The other thread was running a little long. This link has an informative guide to running a 16V car audio system. http://www.turbostart.com/audio/16vAudioManual.htm#The%2016%20Volt%20Concept%20i n%20Car%20Audio%20applications. turbo start bats http://www.turbostart.com/audio/16vAudio.htm 16V kinetik http://www.kinetikaudio.com/hc16v.asp 12V to 16V step up regulator http://www.batteriesareus.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65_149&prod ucts_id=366 battery isolator (240 amp) http://www.ase-supply.com/product_p/31922.htm The isolator is only used when there is only one alt., so that the primary bat maintains a max charge to operate the vehicle, I liked Mark Potts idea of running a second H.O. alt. specifically for the audio bat's |
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Silver Member Username: Impala63ragDD 9512s , Orion d5000 Post Number: 762 Registered: Sep-06 | This was GlassWolf's post on the other thread, I thought it was very helpful. GlassWolf Platinum Member Username: Glasswolf Wisteria , Lane USA Post Number: 11899 Registered: Dec-03 Posted on Sunday, April 15, 2007 - 12:31 am: actually best way to approach this is as follows: make sure your amps have unregulated power supplies or all of this is pointless. next, use a battery isolator to run dedicated audio system batteries in the trunk. get racing batteries designed to run 16 or 20VDC. There are ones that offer that high of an output voltage but still recharge from a 14.4VDC alternator charge by using capacitance and a step-up regulator internally. this gives you the 16VDC setup for the audio from the batteris, lets them recharge from a HO alternator, and leaves your car's electronics running from the starter battery at 12VDC to avoid damage. |
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Gold Member Username: J_baby15DiRtY 5oUtH ... Post Number: 1603 Registered: Feb-06 | I'm actually thikn bout doin that, but still gettn a Z1a or 2 kx2500.1s. I wonder if they'll run at 16v. |
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Silver Member Username: JblanfordPost Number: 789 Registered: Oct-06 | i would think that the z1 will shine 16v, but you might want to ask around about the kicker...it may have to be modded |
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Silver Member Username: SpkrmanChi town, IL U S A Post Number: 423 Registered: Mar-06 | the z2 is a 16v amp. the zx2500 works when modded. In regards to "make sure its unregulated or your wasting your time"... thats hardly true. Higher voltage will always help, less amperage for the same power = your probably getting more power... even on the tightest regulated amp. The orion 2500d was a "regulated" amp, and it gained approx 75% more power on 16v. I would not try to use one alt for 16v and the car... I'd either get an extra alt, or do all batteries. The extra alt will be much more effective running at 18v+ than even a HO alt at 14.4. Dual post batts can also get quite expensive. |
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Gold Member Username: Safe_crackerChicago, IL US Post Number: 2625 Registered: Jan-06 | Hell I was looking for an adjustable external regulator. MY 300A large case Bosch alt needs a better regulator which I suspect being a little on the slow side. The only issue is it is technically an internally regulated alt so a few small mods will have to be made but it is good to get the regulator away from the hot windings anyways. Polo.. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfWisteria, Lane USA Post Number: 11908 Registered: Dec-03 | Orion uses unregulated or loosely regulated power supplies. that's part of their philosophy and always has been. This is why some of their engineers split off and formed PPI (precision power) and as the name implies, went with tightly regulated power supplies due to a schism in views between their engineers. That being said, the purpose of a tightly regulated power supply is to step down over-voltage, and step up under-voltage by using a moderated duty cycle. If the amp has a quality, tightly regulated power supply (many do) then the high voltage charging system really isn't any benefit. |