bring it to a testing center. Do you have an amp that is hooked up live? Meaning it is always on? Check the wire from the Alt. to the battery? Ground from the battery good? Did you put a meter on it? Shouldnt be too hard to figure out.
When the car is running the battery only has 12 volts (give or take a few hundredths).
The amp is temporarily disconnected.
The wire is the same as its always been. I dont know what could have changed to make it stop charging unless theres a fuse between the alternator and the battery thats blown that I cant see.
I'm certain that the ground from the battery is good.
Yes, Ive put a meter on the battery. Thats how I know...
Unfortunately, I feel the problem may be alot more complex than what my wallet really wants it to be.
I would replace the cable from: the alt to the battery, replace the bat to ground cable. and alt to chasssis ground strap. If that does not cure it, then you still have an alt. problem.
Well, you want to use stranded, at least AWG 8 minimum. Solid wire would not be advisable due to vibrations breaking it. Try an old set of jumper cables in those places just to see if you can get the voltage up. You must have a weak link in one of those three places. Also, It could be a bad voltage regulator in the alternater. Most auto places, Pep boys, auto palace, Parts usa, Ect. will test it for you for free.
(1) Self-test alternator for DC voltage outputs. (2) Run some wires to those places mentioned above. The wire will be cut extension cords, which should be threaded and provide an adequate guage. (3) Go to several auto shops (if my battery allows me that amount of travel time). and have them test the alternator and have them get results. (4) Return to ecoustics and post unpleasant results.
After some cognitive workouts under the hood of the car, I think I may have isolated the problem, but I personally dont know how to fix it.
Here's how it works, the alternator has a red line running to the distributor box and the distributor box runs a thick red wire to the positive lead on the battery. So, a charge travels like so... Alt. -> Distributor -> Battery. Now, I tested the alternator to the battery this afternoon and got a constantly steady 0.24 volts. But I believe that is because something in the distributor box (which is labelled the "Master Fuse" on the side of the box) killing the whole charging circuit. I checked the ground cables on the battery, those are good. I checked the battery's leads and all the wires coming out of the distributor box and those are in thick plastic pipes, so I dont see how they can be split since they are threaded wires.
Tomarrow I will return with alternator results and see if the auto shops can isolate my issue even further than what I have.
The alternator runs its power cable along the front of my car and it eventually is split into what looks like hundreds of wires that go into the distributor box. The amperes are distributed to each component that has a fuse in that box, and then the final amps leave the box to go into the battery.
Is that not how it works or am I just talking garbage?
the voltage regular its dive in two part the alternator where u plug the harness its a part of the voltage regulator try to go on ebay find iraggi alternators and in their store page search for voltage regulator
Appearantly my "master fuse" has been blown. (Although I dont see how a 175 amp fuse gets blown unless there was a surge.) So, thank you people for all your help and ideas.
P.S. Mr. Rob, please speak in complete sentances. Its hard to understand anything in that last post.
Appearantly my "master fuse" has been blown. (Although I dont see how a 175 amp fuse gets blown unless there was a surge.) So, thank you people for all your help and ideas.
P.S. Mr. Rob, please speak in complete sentances. Its hard to understand anything in that last post.
