So idk whats wrong...i put my amp kit in my new car..and im using the facotry head unit....so for the RCA's or wahtevery ou wanan call them..i had to buy one of htem things..my friend wired everything for me..but it worked for a little bit....then the power wire was hot liek it was sucking juice from the battery...then i turend the key and the light kept on dimming on the amp...so now it dont work at all...im jumping the remote wire from the amp to the battery(just to test it to see if it works)...and a red light comes on instead of a blue one..so somethisn wrong.b.ut idk what it is
If the wires got hot, then most likely there was a short somewhere. Disconnect the RCA and speaker wires. Now test the amp by itself. If the red light goes out, then it's fine. If it stays on, you've blown the amp. Isolate each problem one by one and you will find the fault.
When you say "goes back out" do you mean the protection light goes out and the blue light comes on? Use a DMM and monitor the voltage going into the amp.
i dont know where hte protection light is on it..al li know is that i connect it to the batter..and a red light comes on....the amp has a voltage meter...or something liek that...it tells you when it hits and all that stuff...but anyways..usually its blue when the amp is on..but when i connected it to the batter..the light goes red for a bout 5 seconds or less...then it goes back off..like there isn't a light on at all
k..so im pretty sure that its my RCA's or whatevery ou wanna call them..my friend that put it in...connected it to the factory amps in teh back..like in the trunk...and i thought you had to connect it to the back of hte HU...but now the amp gets power...idk it was somethign wrong at school..but it gets power now and theres a blue light that stays on..so its getting power..but the voltage meter doesn't move...isn't it hte RCA's that make the subs hit..like actually tell them amp when to make them hit? i think its the RCA's..im hoping thats it and not a blown amp
If your amp is fine without the rca connected, then it's good. Check your rca cable, it could be cut somewhere and shorting out. Best way to check is to use your walkman/portable cd player and use the output on it to feed the amp. If it gives sound, then you know the amp is operating. You should also check the gain/level setting on the amp. If it's set too low, it'll overload and go into protection.
k...so the amp isn't in protection mode.....im pretty sure that its the RCA's..cuz isn't that what tells the sub when to hit???anyways...i have an 03 Mustang..and its got the Mach 1 audio system in it..well he hooked the RCA adapter in the trunk..like he spliced into the wires that go to the factory amps and he did it that way. But the thing is....the factory amp has 2 sets of wires...the wire colors are...Black/White....and Black/Green...theres 4 wires all together...he hook up the negatives to the black/white ones..and hooked hte positives to the black/green ones??is that right??or did i lose you guys and just keep talking and talking?
What did he splice? You should never ever splice a rca cable. You're just asking for problems down the road. Do you know if your 03 Stang comes with built in amp? It could be that your friend spliced into speaker wires. For that you might need speaker to rca converter. Some amps come with that option, most don't. Maybe that's why your amp's going into protection (overload).
You shouldn't cut your rcas, but even if you did, it wouldn't make your amp go into protection mode(which is what it sounds like). Odds are if the amp was fried no lights would go on at all. My advice:
#1) Get rid of the stock HU. I see people with their little linux adapters all the time, and it's ridiculous. Spend $100 on a decent HU online.
#2)Check your ohms load. Is it a mono amp? How many ohms is it stable to? 4 is usually safe. What subs are you powering, and how are they wired?
#3) If you have the time and know how, pull those BS factory amps out. IF you want to do a good job, rewire from you HU to your components, but since it's an 03, you could prolly do without as long as you can pull the factory 'amps'without needing more wire. You don't need them, any decent hu will put out plenty. If you really want more power then get a distribution block and a 2 or 4 channel amp.
Another thing to check is you power wire, too small a guage will cause problems. 8 Guage is fine for 700 watts or less, otherwise move it up to some 4 guage or bigger.
If you do that and still have problems, well I'll be damned if I know what it is.
k...so didnt' splice into the RCA's..the car has the 2 facotry BS amps in the back..ahah...he spliced into the speaker wires for them....im gonan get a new cd player anyways so it'll be ALOT easier and subs will sound better....uhh..my subs are running a 4 ohm load....and yes its a monoblock amp. im powering Total Mobile Audio subwoofers..(12's)...its a branch off of JL..JL makes hte subs but yeah..anyways...i think i'll leave them factory amps in there cuz i dont know how and dont want ot mess with it anymore...does anyone have any suggestions on a CD player??? a good one...i'd pay up to 200...maybe a little more...but i'd rather spend around 150 or so??
If the ground isn't grounded enough....then the amp wont even turn on..like the blue neon lights that are on the amp wont turn on. So thats why i dont think its the ground. I could be wrong but thats what i understand.
Hey....so yes i know i shouldn't of went here in the first place..but best buy installed my cd player and they trouble shooted what was wrong with the subs...he found out..that the fuse box holder was shorting out...like the fuse that runs under the hood...that my power wire hooks up to.....yeah....that fuse...it was only running 4 volts or something liek that??? so their working good now:D:D