thats seems a little high....usually 80$ for components, 50$ for a deck, battery and deadening about 150-200$(depends on the kit) and parts are about 20or30$ for HU kit, 15$ for spacers, so the rest is the price for the enclosure and dynamat. WHy don't you ask them for a detailed listing of the prices.
Umm...he's also paying for sub wiring, new speaker wires from the amp to the wiring harness behind the radio, labor, etc... I work a at a circuit city installin & sellin car audio (*not my dream job*)--here's OUR price break down SHOP FEE(one time charge per visit)--4.99 INSAMPSUB--60.99 INSAMP4CH--70.99(Im assuming that second amp is for the comps) 2 ROLLS SPEAKER WIRE--30.00 SUB WIRING KIT (O&4AWG W/DISTRO BLOCK)-250.99 RCAS--40.00 INSCOMPONENTSPKR--70.99 (this is if we have to make our own tweeter holes, if not it's $50) DASH KIT--20.99(This is the average price. For the dash kit for an 07 civic, I can nearly bet my life that it's around $50 because of the way the dash is shaped) SMART HARNESS(VEHICLE)--13.00 SMART HARNESS(RADIO BRAND)--12.00 BATTERY(god only knows, let's just say50.99
GRAND TOTAL--$653 WITHOUT the dynamat, or the install on that.
Figure in $200 worth of dynamat, plus the labor for it, and your at or above $900.
$660 seems pretty good price to me if you araen't experienced in doing it yourself.
$660 seems dead on for bestbuy or typical install shops in the MD, VA, DC areas where i live. I doubt you will find better unless you can find a good installer for a side job and put the cash in his pockets.
wow thats hella expensive for installation. I was quoted $200 for installing 2 amp , sub, front components and rear coaxial. It was too expensive for me so I ended up installing everything myself. Its tough at first figuring out how to get everything in place but get easier as you go along and you will have to do some research. Overall, its very rewarding and you learn alot.
I would never pay someone to that much money to install mobile audio/video in my car. With help from this site, you can do it all yourself, or even the most novice user. For instance......
Your Yellow Top.....Simple ground and negative to hook up. All you have to do is pay attention to how you take your stock battery out. Then put the yellow top in it's place.
your Dash kit.......Usually this is just a matter of finding a few screws along your dash panel. You car is newer but normally they are pretty much close to being the same. To install the actual dash kit is pretty simple too, they also have instructions inside the package.
Your head unit.......Just pay a local shop $50 to install, that is a little bit more complicated for a novice installer. (Also buy a pair of MONSTER rca cables, and ask them to run one from the head unit, and just put the other one in the trunk to run it from one output on your amp to an input on the other one). Besides their is no extra work for them to plug in some RCA's, if they try to charge you extra, they are trying to rip you off. You can also ask them to hook up you remote wire this way also, just let them know you are running an amplifier in the back. Ask them to hook up two, because you have two amps, if they say they can't, I will explain another way to hook up the second one.
Your Components........You will have to ask another user about that because I don't know how to install them, but it is probably something simple. I have just never had to do it. If the shop will hook up those two thing for you, they two have to be ran underneath trhe carpet of your vehicle to the back of the trunk, in which i am about to explain to you.
Your amps...........This one can be a lil tricky, but after you do it once you will realize how simple it truly is. From your POSITIVE battery terminal you are going to run about a 12" wire (4 guage or lower) (0/1 would be great) to a fuse ANL or AWG type probably about 100-150a. Out of that fuse you are going to run some more wire (The same one from the battery terminal) through the firewall of your car. This is where the CHAOTIC part starts. You can either look for something that is already going through your firewall, that you can shove that wire in beside also, or you can drill your own hole <-(I DO NOT ADVISE THIS). If you have 0 guage it will be a b1tch to drill a hole big enough for it. After you get the wire past your firewall, you will want to hide it underneath the carpet in your car preferably along the panel closest to the door. Take that wire all the way to your trunk. MAKE SURE you take enough so that it will reach halfway through the trunk. I would run a FUSED DISTRIBUTION BLOCK from the end of that wire. Find one that is one 0/1 guage (OR WHATEVER SIZE WIRE YOU WILL BE USING) to a 4 guage output. This way you will have one power wire going into your trunk, then it will have a fuse and two outputs from it. Next, find a spot in your trunk and pull the carpet back a little bit to find a solid piece of metal. You will need to sand the paint off in this area and drill a small hole through that piece of metal (I AM NOT SURE EXACTLY WHAT SIZE AT THE MOMENT, ALSO IN YOUR CASE YOU WILL NEED TO DO THIS TWICE SINCE YOU HAVE TWO AMPS) and put a screw in it. This is where you will want to figure out how much groun wire you will need. If your amp is on one side of the trunk and you made that hole on the other side, you will have a distorted ground level connection. The shorter the ground wire has to be the better. You ground wire need to be the same guage as your power also. I you have more wire left over from when you did the power line just wrap some black tape around some of that wire to know that you are now using it for a ground. Now you should be ready to est you amps (Provided that I have explained everything to you right, and also considering it is late as hell and I want to help you out). Take the skinny wire that the shop should have hooked up for you when they did your head unit and run that to the REMOTE TURN ON on the amplifier. Take the power wire and hook that up to the 12V input on your amp. Now be very careful not to touch anything metal in you car, hook up the NEGATIVE cable to the GROUND INPUT on you amp. Next you will want to hook up your RCA's to the RED/WHITE INPUT on your amp. Turn on you car and see if the amp comes on if it does, then your all good, if it doesn't then we would have to troubleshoot. I will stop here because if you really want to do it yourself, then all the hrd work ends here. WHY pay someone to put sound dampening in you car? Once your speakers are hooked up check to see where your rattling is coming from and put some there. I didn't explain how to hook up the speakers to the amp, but i will if you decide to do it yourself. I hope this helps you out!!!
Thanks for all the info.. i got the battery done (they wanted $60 for that) so right now im going to let them put in the head unit.. and the components since the space is so small and they have to make custom housing for them to fit and not interfere with the window.. and the problem with the wiring is that i do not have the tools to cut the wire or help me out at all and i have 0 gauge wire its really thick
You can use some shears to cut the 0 guage (the scissors they use to cut thick branches from small trees). They cost about $10 @ any home improvement store. One side is flat and the other part has a blade on it. Also make sure they hook up those two wires I told you about.
If you can wait until one of my off days coming up I can guide you through the process (I am a Firefighter and I will be off for 48 hours after new years).
thats nothing i was quoted $4,200 to do my install head unit already installed, all they had to install is my two 15" stroker D2 subs an orion HCCA2100 amp make a box and amp rack i also have two oz audio 6.5 components and tweets with a custom door panel to mount them already made. is that crazy or what? i thought it was insane
50.99