Is it possible to hold 14.5V at 3Krms? Do i need more batterys, strong ALT.. caps...different batterys or what.. i have 2 drycell batterys 1 redtop and one yellowtop and a 200A H\O is this possible... cheap? expensive? worth it?
I havnt found not 1 person who can get me setup with a second alt. after about 1.5 years of searching... so i sort of just voided that idea out, would i be able to regulate a 24V Alt to a different voltage maybe around 15V for stereo side of equiptment and regulate it to 14.5 on the other side... using a power isolater and regulators and such, or maybe just hook some batterys in series with regulators? Would this help at all or no?
hahah u people suxs i have 15.9 with engine on at idle with a single starting battery and the battery voltage is 12 volts how will this happen hahah. na man if u want to have 14.4 always ull need two batteries two runs one for negative and another for positive if u can u can runs 2 runs of each + and - and get a 5 farad cap to make your voltage even stable.
i think nate can do it but it would require u taking ur car to his shop and alot of custom work im going to try and get him to help me out when i get my 3 amps cuz i dont think that a 235amp alt and 4 kenetik 2000 and a couple of batcaps will hold 15k rms
im glad i live so close to nate i know he did a dual alt for virgil williams that put out close to 700 amps
Lil Rob, do you think that will hold 14.x~V while my subs r doing like 3k with some low @ss bass lines? I have 2 Drycells already and 0gauge with a 200A HO and still get down to 12.3V while hitting my lows at idle with the car running, i even see it drop about the same while driving, it just goes back up a lil faster between notes.
Most amps will stand upto 16V power source right? well some of the better amps, althought lower voltage amps are more seen because of the power demand.. but anyways..
I forget exactly what its called but it allows power to flow one way and not the other... and a regulator... if i connect 4 batterys in the rear of my ride with them in sets of 2 in series then the 2 sets in parallel to get 24V and put a regulator on it to drop it to about 15-16V would my voltage decrease be as bad or not as likly? The whole concern here is that when my bass hits that hard my components get a tiny bit quieter...
BTW the batterys would be either yellow tops or kinetics would this work?
you have to run a seperate electical system independant of the cars to have 16v+
and lil rob your full of sh!t bro 15.9v + and with a standard starting battery. dude that will blow up the battery after a little time and you will fry your cars wiring harnesses and electicals.
How do you figure i need seperate systems? I meant to mention a power isolater as well to isolate it into 2 different lines, and one will run to the car battery under the hood the other to the batterys ran in series\paralell in the rear with the regulator limiting the voltage that only my amps feed of off. It sounds logical to me, but if i did that basically what im getting at is will i be able to maintain a good 14V while hiiting my lows at 3000rms even with the car off? The only thing i can think of that would be a problem is, using a 14V HO ALT will it charge the 24V series set of batterys correctly? Or would i need to get a 24V and regulate both sides of the alt leads before going to the batterys? Do they make 16\18V alts?
See that is why i said i would be using isolater\regulators making the batterys see a true 24V to charge then while the car running battery only sees about 14.5V and i would regulate the power source for my amps down to around 15-16V whatever my max for my amp is. Ill draw a diagram sometime but i have no time right now.
well man i think u can have that speacially u ahve all that kinds of batterys, u have to keep with one manufacturer batteries, because they make the resistance of each of their battery similar so u it will run smoothly. all kinetiks have similar resistance and optimas have similar resistance, when u mix crazy resistance ull voltage will drop and the batteries will get crazy, one charged another one uncharged, and if u have same resistance all of them will be fully charged of fully discharged.
Ya lil rob i ad some expiericence with that already, not neccicarily the charging problem tho, i had a wetcell that leaked out somhow from its carge and fu<ked my carpet up..... btw any1 kno where i can find some interior carpet from without paying alot?? I can only find the actual MOLD of the rear carpet and that will cost about 400$ for the one piece, i only need a piece like 4x4ft... and to carpet my box... i need more :/
But nobody answered my question yet, does my idea sound logical for a better power source? Seeing that my car electrical wont see more then 14.5V and my amps wont see anything higher then 16V ( I will be checking with my amp manufacturors that they will run at 16V also.. but if i remember correctly almost any amp i have seen that isnt a cheaply built amp can take atleast 15V.. OT, the amp i got for my subs has a max of 16V RCA input and i use a 4V HU would i get anymore power out of the amp if i boosted it with a line driver to like 8-12V but my amp runs fairly cool for a earthquake... atleast alot cooler then my last one only had thermal light come on one time after about 1.5 hours of constant bumping without turning it down on the expressway... finnaly go me a solid built earthquake amp from online lmao
well lil rob honestly i find it hard to belive your running a normal starting battery and constantly chargning it between 15-16v iv talked to several people who know what they are talking about and they have said that will boil the battery and it will burst. some of them have had personal expreiance with it. maybe if its at 15v when you just start your car for a second then yes but not after its warmed up. and if so im suprised you havnt f ucked up your battery yet.
im tellin you mat dope i have 15.9 at idle nope i can let the voltage stay like that for a long time. and tobbe honest the voltage has to be 12 volt on the car but at 12 volt will not charge the battery, so it has to be higher voltage than 12 volt i know im surprise too i think my alternator voltage regulator thats is like that, but i still have dimming,
yeah i can un regulate my alt so it will put out constant 15.5v but i have had many people tell me it will blow a normal starting bat. as well as kill my cars eletricals.
it maybe ok in the short term but in the long run i woulndt think so.
stock alts put out 14v for a reason.
and the dimming youhave now is probly just from voltage drop not low current
LIL ROB are you watching your voltage from a batt cap.? I had a old cheap cap that would give me a false voltage reading, when i connect the DMM i get different readings whichc seem more accurate, it would tell me i was doin 17V when in reality on the meter it was only doin 14.3V, But i boiled a battery from either it being mixed with the optima or from it being dead and just keep charging itself....
i got my own voltage meter, my cap doesnt have one because is a kinetik kinetik dont have that. i got my own voltage meter. better than cheap voltimeters. u can hold 14 volts if u get two kinetiks hc-1400 and up, and get a extra hc600 next to the amp as close as ucan do that and u will have 14 volts with no voltage drop
three extra batteries, even 40, is not going to hold 14.5 volts at 3.5k rms.
Why? Because batteries only hold a 12.6 volt charge, so to maintain 14.5 volts, you're going to have to have an alternator, that puts out 14.5 volts, as well as puts out enough amperage to maintain the draw. (3,000 at 80% efficiency, actually pulls about 3800 watts. 3800 watts, is 262 amps at 14.5 volts)
So with a 300 amp alternator, when it's at full output, might be able to barely handle your cars electronics, as well as 3k watts RMS, at max voltage.
wow im going to repeat myself AGAIN, i have a 600 Fluke DMM and it is acurate as hell, the cap voltage was wrong FOR SURE the battery was pretty old though.. But im saying the floating voltage wiyth the car off on my idea would still be about 16V flat with car on or off for my amps so i should technically be able to hold atleast 14.5V as long as i have enough amperage to maintain it.. READ MY POSTS OVER AND OVER and maybe you will see what im talking about, i think people are still confused at what i been trying to get at. i DO SEE WHERE YOUR COMING AT ABOUT HAVING THE SDTRONGER VOLTAGE BECAUSE OF THE BATTERYS actual POWER WITHOUT THE CHARGEING TAKING PLAC3E ADDING THE VOLTAGE THATS WHY I WAS STATING PUTING BATTERYS IN SERIES\PARALEL TO BOOST THE VOLTAGE AND ISOLATE THE TWO DIFFERENT SECTIONS (CAR BATTERY\SYSTEM BATTERYS) AND LIMIT THEM BOTH DOWN TO THE NECCICARY VOLTAGE WHICH WOULD MAKE THE BATTERY OUTPUT AFTER THE REGULATOR AT MY 16v SETTING WITH THE CAR OFF ooppps sory bout caps
