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New member Username: ChampouxPost Number: 1 Registered: May-04 | I have done some reading on this board to try and bring myself up to speed before posting, my intent is to avoid wasting bandwidth..here goes. I have an Alpine 7838 HU with 2 fading pre outs. I have an old (but unused) a/d/s 6x25 powerplate I have an infinity basslink sub, I have 4 infinity 525i speakers. None of this is installed. I have a Jeep Cherokee reading the board I think I want to run two of the coax 525i (as mono) for rear fill as well as the basslink sub. I think I will get a new 2 way 5.25" component set for the front(and ditch the other set of coax 525i's) I would to feed the 6x25 amp with my two pre outs and somehow get 50rms for the front 25 mono for the rear and pass through for the self powered sub. questions: how to I configure the amp ( dont really know how to bridge an amp) to make this work. its a straight 6 in 6 out, so its not an amp specific question (I think) all I really need is a high pass for the front set right? or should I limit the rear fill also. If I cant make the powerplate work (its a *really* nice amp) should I just get two small amps with high pass filters built in? any help is appreciated jim |
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New member Username: ChampouxPost Number: 2 Registered: May-04 | BTW the amp is an a/d/s PH12 circa 1991 |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 2749 Registered: Dec-03 | old a/d/s amp like these http://www.wickedcases.com/caraudio/ADS-Sony_01b.jpg I remember them well. good amps. anyway bridge the amp so two channels are front left bridged, two are front right bridged, and the remaining two are for rears. if the head unit only has two pair of pre-outs, you'll need an electronic crossover to handlr the subwoofer's line level signal and crossover points, so look at a coustic XM-3 or similar as an economic solution. |
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New member Username: ChampouxPost Number: 3 Registered: May-04 | thanks glassswolf, regarding bridging...its the how that I dont understand.Any online resources for bridging? as for the two channels for the rear: how do I make them mono. as for the subwoofer it takes preamp or line level inputs and has an active crossover, all I should need is to split one of my fading preouts right? thanks jim |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 2754 Registered: Dec-03 | bridging: http://www.bcae1.com/bridging.htm for mono there should be a mono/stereo switch. If not, you'll need the electronic crossover that does offer a stereo/mono switch for that pair of channels as well as a high pass filter so the rears don't bottom out. same for fronts. for the sub you could split the signal, but that weakens the line level signal with a loss of signal strength. the crossover is your best solution as this also prevents the fader from affecting your sub output. |
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New member Username: ChampouxPost Number: 4 Registered: May-04 | again, many thanks. as far as bridging the amp goes, the manual shows a circuit diagram with nomenclature that says" stereo bridging switches shown in the stereo position" no (passive) switches are shown, I have emailed a/d/s about bridging this amp. there are definately no stereo/mono switches either so bridging and/or mono-ing are likely out. If it turns out that it is non bridgeable I will probably just throw it on ebay and buy two small amps, maybe a 2x75 for the fronts and a 2x25 for rear fill and go with crossovers(like the xm-3) |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 2761 Registered: Dec-03 | http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page5.asp#stbm |