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Bronze Member Username: Tremor1127Post Number: 62 Registered: Aug-06 | ok, ive got 6.5 alpine type r's in the front doors and 6.5 blaupunkt pcx662 (the clear ones) in the rear doors of a grand cherokee... i want to dynomat the doors anyways pretty soon but as of right now my highs sound kinda terrible at higher volumes... they are all powered by a panasonic cq-c8303u head unit only... also, im not even sure if the polarity is correct on all of them... they sound good but not what i was expecting from type r's... other peoples car speakers get much louder than mine, and sound clear while still being way louder than mine... i know peoples cars that the highs are way loud and super clear for like a half a block away... anyway, enough ranting... do i need to get an amp for my speakers? eq? crossover? anyone? |
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Bronze Member Username: Tremor1127Post Number: 63 Registered: Aug-06 | i want to buy this cause it looks cool, but i wouldnt know what the hell to do with it... http://cgi.ebay.com/MA-Audio-SY15EQ-15-Band-Equalizer-EQ-BRAND-NEW-300msrp_W0QQi temZ300020597601QQihZ020QQcategoryZ79841QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem |
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Bronze Member Username: BobimpactDanbury, CT US Post Number: 30 Registered: May-06 | You need an amp for those Type Rs. Playing them at high volumes solely on the output of a panasonic deck is damaging them. An EQ is the least of your concerns until you get them amped. |
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Bronze Member Username: Tremor1127Post Number: 73 Registered: Aug-06 | ok, will definently get an amp... is this overkill? http://cgi.ebay.com/Soundstream-XTA720-4-4-Channel-Amplifier-1440W-Amp-New_W0QQi temZ140022812265QQihZ004QQcategoryZ4950QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem about 30-50 REAL watts is all i really need for them right? that is rated at 90x4@4ohms... |
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Bronze Member Username: BobimpactDanbury, CT US Post Number: 90 Registered: May-06 | That amp is fine for your needs. There's a concept called headroom in audio, having "reserve power" actually helps a speaker more than it hurts it. Before anyone freaks, I know that I just blew through a 15 page discussion on what dynamic range means, bear with me. That being said, over powering a speaker is only as good as the tuning you (or your installer) does. |
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New member Username: CoredumpPost Number: 1 Registered: Oct-07 | I had crappy sound at high volume. Eventually I nailed the problem - crossover frequency between tweet and mid. Once I dialed it in the harshness went away and I could crank it without bleeding my ears. Good luck. |
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Silver Member Username: SqcheapGrand rapids, Michigan Usa Post Number: 116 Registered: Jul-07 | HU power is not worth a * except for grandma's car. Pick up a brand name 4ch on ebay for <50 at the minimum. An amp gives the speaker control to move the way it needs to so it can generate the sound properly. Larger amp has more control long as you don't fry the driver. Even a little amp will run the speaker with 3 times the voltage of a typical HU. |
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Bronze Member Username: Alpine97Greenwood, Indiana USA Post Number: 18 Registered: Jan-08 | Hey man dynomat is worthless. I would go with Brownbread. It is the best sound damper I have ever encountered. I little pricy, but that depends on where you go. If you have the type R 6 1/2 , then you need a 4 ch. amp ASAP or the distortion and underpowering of them speakers is going to blow them. I just installed the type S alpines in my girls toyota camry all the way around and they are 50 rms. They sound good on the Alpine HU. In reality your HU is pushing 18-28 RMS and the type R's take way more then that. After you get a 4ch amp...then worry about a EQ...once you get there it will sound incrediable. |
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Gold Member Username: Big_edge_headMilwaukee, Wisconsin MY SUB... Post Number: 1209 Registered: Mar-07 | You can not blow a speaker by underpowering it. The only way it will blow by underpowering it is when someone wants their speakers to get louder and they turn the volume up untill the HU is no longer able to produce a clean signal, then the speakers start to clip. You will not blow a speaker by underpowering it. |
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Gold Member Username: Th3pwn3rPost Number:... Post Number: 6610 Registered: Jul-06 | ^The above is true. You can never blow up a speaker or sub by under-powering it. You can blow a speaker by either over powering it or over heating it or sending it an un-clean signal A.K.A. clipping. |
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Silver Member Username: SqcheapGrand rapids, Michigan Usa Post Number: 132 Registered: Jul-07 | To get technical, an amp clips and is making a wave not like the input because it can't supply the voltage needed to make that wave big enough. (Wave is when speaker goes out/in) An amp can make more power clipping than it is rated for, that is how a "small amp" can blow a speaker. Say a 50wrms amp makes 100w clipping to an 80w speaker, it can roast it that way. If you clip a 100wrms sub amp into a 500wrms sub, no it will never blow up as clipping max power should be something like double but depends on the amp. So for amp/speaker with close power ratings it can happen. Also in clipping you get some DC going into the speaker as the wave breaks down, with DC the speaker is not moving and so is not cooling itself. That can help it blow if it is right on the verge of doing so. What you get is lots of power into the speaker but part of it (DC part) is not making the speaker move and cool...but still heating the voice coil. You will have less excursion and same amount of power. A larger amp would make the speaker move more for that same amount of clean power, and thus a cooler VC. Of course you should never run an amp into clipping because of this, and it sounds like * so people will laugh at you. Get a bigger amp, they are cheap these days. A HU can only make about 20wrms on 12V power. Unless it has a switching power supply like an amp that can not fit inside most any HU, it will not make more power. You can only swing 0 or +12v to make the speaker move...that is only +/- 6v or a 12v swing. Plus you have some loss there. Even a small amp might run rails at 20V and that is +20 and -20; for a 40v swing instead of 12. I just looked at a Dual HU (is typical- nothing against them) and it says 220w on the box and in the manual it says 17W RMS x 4 channels, 14.4VDC, 20Hz~20kHz, < or = 1% THD+N, at CEA-2006 Spec. |