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Bronze Member Username: Aman2005Post Number: 99 Registered: May-06 | Hello Everyone, Still confused which amp to choose.. As I have looked on the ebay, I cound not find any amp having enouigh power to push Type R Pair, I found amps of Lanzar, Pyle, Boss, Audiobahn. which suits my budget. I can spend around $300. lease suggest me an amp which can power the subs without under powering or powering the subs so they wont get any harm. As I have bought the subs from a dealer in US and I am in India, so it'll be very sad thing for me if the subs get blown. I also don't want to change my alternator (STOCK), so Please HeLp Me OuT....!!!!! |
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Silver Member Username: LexuscoopPheonix, Arizona USA Post Number: 376 Registered: May-06 | what is the RMS on them? i think 2 audiobahn 800T or what ever would power them |
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Silver Member Username: Aman2005Post Number: 101 Registered: May-06 | the RMS is 500 watt each. what about this amp ALPINE MRP-M650 MONO 1000 WATTS AMPLIFIER description http://cgi.ebay.com/ALPINE-MRP-M650-MONO-1000-WATTS-AMPLIFIER-NEW_W0QQitemZ97349 09997QQcategoryZ18797QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting |
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Silver Member Username: Aman2005Post Number: 102 Registered: May-06 | also what about this to power two type r subs http://cgi.ebay.com/ALPINE-MRD-M1005-1000-WATT-RMS-V12-MONOBLOCK-AMP-NEW_W0QQite mZ9734899558QQcategoryZ79825QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem |
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Silver Member Username: LexuscoopPheonix, Arizona USA Post Number: 379 Registered: May-06 | the second one would be better the first one will under power them |
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Silver Member Username: DrivingrecklessNear tampa, Florida United state... Post Number: 601 Registered: Apr-06 | ARE THEY DUAL 4 OHM OR DUAL 2OHM OR ARE THE SINGLE VC 4 OR 2 OHM??? |
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Silver Member Username: LexuscoopPheonix, Arizona USA Post Number: 381 Registered: May-06 | good catch, the R's come in DVC 4 ohm and DVC 2 ohm... which one do you have? |
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Silver Member Username: Aman2005Post Number: 104 Registered: May-06 | two dual vc 4 ohm |
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Silver Member Username: DrivingrecklessNear tampa, Florida United state... Post Number: 677 Registered: Apr-06 | https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/car-audio/230842.html check out tht thread the dude has the subs like u and there are a bunch of suggestions in it tht fit ur budget |
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Gold Member Username: Southern_bassParis, Tennessee U.S. Post Number: 2295 Registered: Dec-05 | you need a amp that is 1 ohm stable , or you could get to amps that are 2 ohm , like i have a 12'' type r dual vc 4 ohm sub and have an alpine mrd 605 that does 600 watts @ 2 ohm |
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Silver Member Username: Aman2005Post Number: 106 Registered: May-06 | Should I go for a audiobahn or boss or pioneer amp for powering the Type R sub pair? I am unable to find a 1000 watt amp under the budget of $300. Please suggest me one to choose from. Or, if you can tell me which amp can be the best choice for powering under the said range |
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Gold Member Username: Alias747MN Post Number: 1018 Registered: Apr-05 | Well if you don't want to change your alt, best look for a 1-ohm stable class D mono amp, more efficient than a 2-channel bridged and useless amps from the alt, so there is a better chance you will have to change it. |
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Silver Member Username: Aman2005Post Number: 107 Registered: May-06 | Issac, you mean a 1 ohm stable will be best if its having a power of 1000 wrms and I will not have to change my alt too? Can you refer me some of the brands which are having so config and specs |
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Gold Member Username: Alias747MN Post Number: 1019 Registered: Apr-05 | I meant to say if you get a more efficient amp (class d) there is a better chance you WONT have to change it. But judging by the tiny car you showed us that you have, I don't think you are going to get around it. But look at something like this: http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-HIFONICS-BRUTUS-BX1000D-SUBWOOFER-AMP-AMPLIFIER_W0QQitem Z9735638650QQihZ008QQcategoryZ18797QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem If the link doesn't work it is item number 9735638650, just copy and paste that into the search field and the item will come right up. And awesome for you, they actually ship worldwide. Most sellers on ebay don't do that. This is one of your best budget options. |
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Silver Member Username: Aman2005Post Number: 108 Registered: May-06 | what about this amp for powering two r subs http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Kenwood-KAC-9152D-1800W-Mono-Amplifier-w-Remote-N IB_W0QQitemZ8070881248QQcategoryZ38638QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem |
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Gold Member Username: Alias747MN Post Number: 1020 Registered: Apr-05 | Aman, I would take the Hifonics over the Kenwood. I gave you my advice take it or leave it. |
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Silver Member Username: Aman2005Post Number: 109 Registered: May-06 | Don loose temper issac. The reply you posted took a time and wasnt here when I was posting my query. I have bought that amp. Thanx. Now tell me how to hook that with my two subs and tell me, will I have to change my alt to power the amp properly? |
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Gold Member Username: Alias747MN Post Number: 1021 Registered: Apr-05 | You will need to wire your subs in parallel/parallel. You will have a single 1-ohm load. I am going to be honest, you will more than likely need to change the alt. You lights will probably start dimming as you to turn up the volume higher. Worse yet, your car could start stalling if it is really bad. But you just have to try it and see what happens. Good luck with everything. |
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Silver Member Username: Aman2005Post Number: 110 Registered: May-06 | i am not thinking to play music at very higher volumes. as i read abt the r's, i think as the volumes go up the bass too upto a certain extent which may be intollerable in the car. You can say that i'll pla music at 20-23/35. in such a case, will the lights start dimming?? |
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Silver Member Username: Aman2005Post Number: 112 Registered: May-06 | max number reached in the last post. If later on, I found that my car's lights are not dimming, will that mean that there is no need of changing the alt.? If i want to check that wthether there is need of changing alt., how to check that?? plz reply for both posts. |
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Gold Member Username: RovinTrinidad & T... Post Number: 8032 Registered: Jul-05 | i posted this link 2 u wks ago but it seems as though u didnt bother/too lazy 2 read it or dont understand >>>>>>> Alternators and Charging Systems Upon reading and answering many questions about car audio, one question always pops up: "Do I need a high output alternator or just a capacitor?" If you want a killer system, you may think that all you need are big amplifiers and huge speakers. Not so! Adding a bunch of car audio components to your vehicle without the proper charging system may lead you to disappointment, distortion and damaged equipment. Let's say you install a 1,200 watt amplifier in your ride. Your rides charging system must produce enough electrical current to run the amplifier and still power the rest of the car's electrical requirements. Now how do you know how much current is needed? Simple: step 1: Find out how much RMS wattage your amplifier will produce based on the load presented by your speakers. step 2: Divide this number by 12 (volts) step 3: Take the resulting number and multiply by the factor below, based on the amplifier type: Class AB: *1.4 Class T or D: *1.2 step 4: Add the totals together if there is more than one amplifier in the system step 5: add your stock alternator's HOT current rating to this figure. The total you get is the amount of current your car and audio system will draw at peak output. Most vehicle electrical systems are 12.5VDC at idle, and between 13.8 and 14.4VDC above about 900rpm but we use 12 volts as the standard for these calculations because most amplifiers today use a regulated power supply, so they get 12VDC regardless of input voltage, so... 1,200 watts divided by 12 volts equals 100 Amperes of current. If this is a class D amplifier, it'll be ~80% efficiend, so we'll add 20% of 100A to the total, and we get about 120A of current demand continuously at peak output. This means that the electrical system of the vehicle will need to produce an extra 120 Amperes of electrical current to power your amplifier and subwoofer at peak levels. Keep in mind that the factory electrical system is designed to produce enough charging power (alternator and battery) for the vehicle's stock equipment, and was not designed to accomodate high-powered audio systems. The biggest mistake made by consumers (and many installers) is failing to beef up the charging system to handle the extra load of the audio system. First, you need to understand how the electrical system operates. This must be one of the most mis-understood systems of the entire vehicle, so here's a brief summary: Turning the ignition key begins the process of cranking the motor. The battery supplies the power to get things started. Once the engine is running, the electrical burden is shifted over to the alternator, and the battery then goes into a charging state, and only functions to filter and stablize the DC voltage from the alternator. The alternator uses the engine's mechanical power to produce electrical (AC) current. The AC current is passed through a rectifier and changed to DC current by the DC voltage regulator to smooth out and set the voltage rails for the car . The alternator also has the duty of recharging the battery after starting the vehicle by providing a forward bias voltage higher than that of the battery. Everything works perfectly so long as the power requirements of the vehicle do not exceed the capabilities of the alternator. If the peak output is surpassed due to excessive load, then power will be pulled from the battery. If the alternator and battery combined cannot meet the demand, then the vehicle's voltage rails, and subsequently the electrical devices are diminished (dimming lights, spark plug misfires, audio distortion and amplifier clipping, or even the car stalling.) The first place to look to determine if your charging system is up to the task is the alternator itself. If possible, look for the HOT RATING on the alternator. IF you can't see it easily, call a local auto-parts store or car dealership and ask them to look up the stock alternator size, or rating for your vehicle. The hot rating will tell you the amount of power the alternator will produce once the engine reaches it's operating temperature (this is a lower rating than the cold rating). I suggest using your stock alternator unless you experience problems. That's how you know if you need to upgrade, since there is no concrete way to tell if a stock alternator has enough reserve to handle your additional burdens. Now, if you do need a new and larger alternator, after finding the stock rating, then allow your alternator about 10 Amperes credit or buffer area. http://www.wickedcases.com/caraudio/charging.html |
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Silver Member Username: SkiesCourtenay, British Colu... Canada Post Number: 115 Registered: Aug-05 | This may be a little dumb, but to find out how much current your alternator is creating, do you just use a DMM and put it to +/- on the battery? and maybe have someone rev the engine above 1000 rpm ?... or is it different when the vehicle is moving? |
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Silver Member Username: Aman2005Post Number: 114 Registered: May-06 | Rovin, i've read it many times. Acc to my amp, which is one k wrms, it would take around 100A of current on PEAK VOLUME. From where my ques arises. if you have read the previous queries, i told that i will not play at higher volumes. now tell me wat to do, if lights are not dimming |