dont know yet, my HU is of getting fixed, its a 860 with the groud trace problem, and besides i just got done like 10 minutes ago, but im dying to hear it
i dont know because im too lazy to figure up all the displacements, but im gonna guess its about 3.8 cu ft, at about 37hz
well i think aeroports are like 10-13(sumwhere in there) sq inches in area so i think 4 would be about right rov. i was thinking bout using 3 6 inch or 4 4 inch ports with my havoc
looks awesome man, you gotta tell us all how it sounds, my last box that was aero had only two but they were a bit longer so i bet four is just about perfect.
yes i am dying to hear it too, btw they are just the precision ports from partsexpress.com, and i didnt cut them so they are 17" of port - 18" total after flair--each
2whats tha box tuned to? or did you just stick the aeroprts in there? im asking cause i dont know sh!t about aeroports lol im more familiar with slot ported. looks good though now u just need your headunit then youll be slammin.
terry...u really want it for 10 bux? is that 10 bux=shipping or 10 bux shipped il take sum pics with my webcam here in a minute if u want me to...its in great condition...il ship it in its origional box . no cosmetic damage or anything, i just like 6 inch ports better
very solid looking box terry nice job, 1 recomendation.. you could have done a double front baffle and hide those nuts while providing more security for the sub.. also maybe the pictures just decieving but how far are the ends of the ports from the back wall of the box? they should be at least the width of the port
I would bet with the full length ports it is tuned between 40-43hz but hard to tell without the exact enclosure volume, and the displacement of the sub, ports, bracing. Looks good though, keep us posted..Polo.
i thought about a double baffle, but then i would have lost some cu ft, and the box i built is the absolute max that can fit in my trunk, and i mean that too, i will have to kick it in
it not that high, i more that over compenated for the displacement, its at most 38hz, but i think its about 37. but thats just based on the calulator i had on the bca1 site
Very nice. However, I would have built it a little different. The single reason for dowel rods and threaded stock was for rigidity right?, well as this does do the trick it also hurts in other ways. Internal turbulance is important, all that money on "Aeroports" is almost wasted. The air's velocity is copromised with all the rods inside your box. If weight and a little extra size wasn't a factor, then building the box with double or even triple walls would have been ideal. Here's another little trick for any of you that decide to get competitive...Take some 2" PVC pipe, split it down the middle using a jig saw or di grinder. Now, cut it to length and glue it to each inside corner, (along the box where the top and sides meet, along the bottom where the sides meet, ect). Now, use some thin sheets of fiberglass and resin in these new "rounded inside edges". After the box's corners and inside edges have been smoothed out go over all the inside panels and cover them in with resin. After it is set up you should sand the insdie of the enclosure until it is smooth, the next step is to go over it with a shiny coat of paint. Ok, thats enough tricks for tonight.... :P LATER zac
Thanks Zac for that info. I think I understand what your driving at with your air volocity points and your idea of rounding corners. I think ive read the tip about rounded corners on the net from other top spl guys like yourself. Im suspecting also that the shape of the enclosure also has an impact on spl results (kinda like the golden ratio) what id like to do is make two 1.5 cubic feet enclosures but make them as diffrent as possible in demensions from each other and test them outside to see if the results are the same from one enclosure to the next. If they arent and each is tested exactly the same then shape will prove to make a difference in your spl score because the cars cabin will no longer be a factor in this experiment since it will be done outside the car.
so should i get rid of the dowels? what if i just got rid of the let and right ones and kept the middle for the extra support? i really think i need the allthread because otherwise the box would be too flimsy
the most i would take out is the dowels, and i might do a little sanding because the glue is pretty rough, i didnt know this little stiff made that big of a difference, i might try the corners thing on my next box
Terry, My box is 4.47cf with no internal bracing what so ever and all is a single layer of OSb @ 3/4" with a layer of resin, that is it and it isn't flimsy at all. Polo..
