customer support is better? I had a minor defect with a W7 I bought at a local shop.. sent off an email at around 8pm - and got a call from the vice president of JL Audio the next day, letting me know that my replacement was waiting to be picked up at the shop I got it from.
Both kicker and JL amps are underrated. A jl 1000/1 will bench around 1100-1200 watts. A kicker kx 1200.1 will bench around 1400-1500 watts. This is, of course, with adequate voltage and current.
i'll better buy phoenix gold 1200.1 before buying jl amp, cuz is too expensive for the little thing it does, of course is great but too expensive, i prefer buying a new orion 2500d that has more power at every watt and is 200 dollars cheaper
Neither Lanzar. You won't even need a battery for this amp. If you feed it 10 amps @ 6V you will get a total of 923 watts. Because Lanzar doesn't know ohms law so they don't have to use it.
I cant believe kicker even comes up in this conversation. First off all of thier amps are rated at 14.4. I would love to find an average car that can run at 14.4 volts all day with the volume cranked. Its a long story but I spent close to a month research on a lot of amps. Kicker sucks because if u drop below 14.4volts so does the wattage, dramatically. I had a kicker 850.4 powering MB Q's. It sounded like sh*t it was distorted and the amp cut off after an hour. I switched to two 300/2 jl audio amps and it sounded 100 times better. JL has regulated power supplies, 106 sn ratio on most amps, .05 thd and much better heat dispersion design. Kicker Comp VR subs are the sh*t but their amps are horrible
"I had a kicker 850.4 powering MB Q's. It sounded like sh*t it was distorted and the amp cut off after an hour"
i dought that. either yoy must be a die hard jl fan because all the kicker amps i have owned have never gone into protection. you must have had the gain riduculously high ot had it wired wrong because kicker amps dont go into protection unless wired or set wrong.
the 1000/1 i would take if i had the money though.
"Kicker Comp VR subs are the sh*t but their amps are horrible"
your the only one in this whole forum that would say that. NEWB - know your stuff before you give false info.
I agree with Jonathan Jl is very well bult and the customer service is impeccable the two times I have used them. I like Kicker amps also but the JL is a better amp.
Omg are u guys insane... please just call kicker's tech dept and ask the tech "what happens if the amp doesnt get 14.4 volts what will the wattage be?" ask him that ques for any KX or SX. BTW I been a kicker fan until I got the two JL audio\memphis amps which was this year. I am a fan of a company who produces good results.
Way back in the day my Kicker ZR240 went into protection mode from getting hot. I ran it with the gain all the way up and the bass boost all the way up and after about two hours it got hot and went into protection. Since then I haven't had a Kicker amp go into protection, but I have blown many subs with Kicker amps.(including Kicker)
you almost don't need to talk to jl audio if something goes wrong with your stuff as long as you bought it at an authorized dealer.
i blew one of my jl 6.5 coaxial speaker 3 months after i got it installed at an authorized dealer. when i went back to the store they just changed it and told me they will deal with getting that replaced with jl audio.
you almost don't need to talk to jl audio if something goes wrong with your stuff as long as you bought it at an authorized dealer.
i blew one of my jl 6.5 coaxial speaker 3 months after i got it installed at an authorized dealer. when i went back to the store they just changed it and told me they will deal with getting that replaced with jl audio.
Ok here is the deal, yesterday I had a one Kicker L5Series and a Kicker 750.1 powering the baby. And it thumped like sh!t...... Now today I bought another Kicker L5Series and another Kicker 750.1. After hooking them both up i noticed that it doesnt even sound as loud as one did before. What can be the problem
Well I had a capacitor but for some reason it blew. I have the power wire running from the battery to like a distribution block. And I have each amp connected in the block. I was just curious is it because i have both amps on one battery. Is thats why its only getting have the power.
"Omg are u guys insane... please just call kicker's tech dept and ask the tech "what happens if the amp doesnt get 14.4 volts what will the wattage be?" ask him that ques for any KX or SX. BTW I been a kicker fan until I got the two JL audio\memphis amps which was this year. I am a fan of a company who produces good results."
KICKER KX/SX SERIES AMPS ONLY PRODUCE ADVERTISED WATTAGE WHEN GIVEN THE CORRECT VOLTAGE OR HIGHER. which means if your current setup can't sustain 14.4 volts than switch to JL Audio. Plus why would you buy an amp that has a THD rating of 1.5% JL's is .05. JL audio amps give true power 11-14.4 volts....I Had kicker amps before I know what the difference is.
Kicker Audio's number 405 624 8510 405 624 8583 call and ask the tech what will the wattage be on your amp if the voltage drops to 12.8 you will be shocked
you tell us. you still need a good alt and maybe an extra battery, so if you have all that your system wont be droppin way below 13 volts. and if you think about it even if it does drop below the 14.4 you will still be gettin more watts then the 1000/1. it puts out like 1100. and the kicker amp are underrated and the 1200.1 puts out 1390, benched.
lol uh u need more than an alternator and a good battery to make a car sustain 14.4 volts at idle. Now if you are driving that setup could work because the engine is charging the battery. and didnt u read above....the kicker amp can produce 1390 and higher ONLY if its given more than 14.4 volts. the amp is rated at 14.4 volts if it could produce more watts at that voltage then the amp would be 1390 not 1200. When u buy an amp do u go by the manufacturer's specs or by what some dealer says to sell u the stuff?
i would still get the 1000/1 but its just way too expensive. if i had the money i would. i am not arguing that i wouldnt get the 1000/1 over the 1200.1, i am just saying that the 1200.1 is a great amp and even if its rated at 14.4 volts when it drops down it will prolly be around what the 1000/1 is rated at 1100. if i had the money i would, but not many people on this forum can buy a $ 900 amp. IMO
well i wouldnt pay $900 either I would pay $675 but any person can buy this amp onlin for like $730-$800... I have had 5 different systems different amps differnt speakers etc etc.... Why settle for less and then change it later? instead spend the money now and u wont have to spend it later on the smae thing
Because the car audio industry isn't about quality, it's about "good for the money". If it does cost money, then it better be stupid loud and stupid big. If it sounds half decent getting stupid loud then it's fantastic, usually touted as the best thing they've ever heard.
Then if you decide to get some esoteric, uber high-end piece of equipment, or simply ask about it, some jackass on a forum is going to say "YOU'RE AN IDIOT!!!!!! For that price, you could get/have gotten three inferior products that noone has ever heard of!!!!"