Help, installed a yellow top.....
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Silver Member Username: LewassBoomfield Hills, MI USA Post Number: 431 Registered: Jan-06 | I installed a yellow top yesterday, and although it helps with the dimming lights a lot, my car stalls everytime I come to a stop with it in drive. The rpms bounce up and down a couple times (from idle at 500, to 1000, then down to 250, then back up to 900 then down to a stall.... What could be causing this, my car had no trouble turning over this morning... Music is loud and powerful... Also it is 90% improved over my old battery when driving, the lights barely dim, bass seems a little bit louder, but as soon as I stop, it wants to stall. Any ideas what this could be from? Also, I redid my ground in my trunk, it used to be clamped to the body metal using a pretty lame clamp which probably didn't conduct well, and now it is attached via a 4 gauge ring terminal. Ever since I did that, it has felt like the amp is drawing more current even when the volume isn't up. Please help, because this battery was $180 after tax and core charge of $10.... |
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Silver Member Username: LewassBoomfield Hills, MI USA Post Number: 434 Registered: Jan-06 | Had to remove the strut tower brace, the washer fluid reservoir, AND the air intake box, just to get to the damn battery.    |
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Gold Member Username: CarguyPost Number: 5420 Registered: Nov-04 | Using a DMM, check your voltage at idle speed. If it's below 12v, then there isn't enough power to go around. |
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Silver Member Username: LewassBoomfield Hills, MI USA Post Number: 436 Registered: Jan-06 | What if I raise my idle rpms to 800 or so, I know it would be a little bit less gas friendly, but in theory that should allow my alternator a little more rpms at idle? |
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Gold Member Username: CarguyPost Number: 5421 Registered: Nov-04 | Depends on your car. The newer ones use a computer to monitor. One way to solve is by getting an isolator and 2nd battery. Better way would be to purchase HO alternator. Cheapest is to keep the volume down at idle/stops. |
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Silver Member Username: LewassBoomfield Hills, MI USA Post Number: 448 Registered: Jan-06 | I know, good thing I've got an old one  I have a perfectly good starting battery and I was thinking about doing the double battery setup, however I am getting a new car soon and I am looking for the easiest temporary fix, with the intention of doing everything "perfect" on the new car (H.O. Alt, using this yellow top as a second battery, big 3 wiring, and all with the intention of running about 1300 watts rms... NO dimming whatsoever) I always keep the volume down at red lights/etc.. Doing this helps, but even with the volume down it still stalls... Also, I have my power wire ran to an auxilary battery post, I was thinking about attaching it directly to the top post on the battery itself, would this help a lot? The wire going to the battery post is only a foot long, but looks like it is 8 gauge power wire.. |
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Gold Member Username: CarguyPost Number: 5422 Registered: Nov-04 | Next time the car shuts down, monitor the voltage. If it's above 12.5v then it's not the battery problem. Here's a link where you can read up on throttle and carburetor. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question377.htm |
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Silver Member Username: LewassBoomfield Hills, MI USA Post Number: 451 Registered: Jan-06 | I raised my idle rpms to ~900 and it helps a ton, so it seems like the problem was that with the new battery, the alternator actually had a constant load on it, rather than my old battery which had no reserve capacity and would show the alternator that it was fully charged very quickly. I think the alternator when running full blast makes the serpentine belt a lot harder to spin, and at 500 rpms my engine didn't have enough torque to keep up with it. So anyways It is now 90% better, I'm going to give it some time and see how it goes, and if it still has stalling issues I'll raise the rms up to 1050 or 1100... Thanks a lot for getting back to me with all my questions Isaac. Also, one more question for ya, I have my power wire ran to an auxilary battery post, I was thinking about attaching it directly to the top post on the battery itself, would this help a lot? The wire connecting the battery to the auxillary post is only a foot long, but looks like it is 8 gauge power wire.. I'll run outside and snap a picture. |
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Gold Member Username: B101Queen City, NC USA Post Number: 2103 Registered: Sep-05 | RPM bounce has alot to do with the current flow! espically if u have ultra thin wires smaller than 4ga on a HO alternator!! You shouldnt need to raise your rpms... Sound like you need to redo the entire chargin system  how big is your alternator?? |
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Gold Member Username: CarguyPost Number: 5424 Registered: Nov-04 | You should upgrade all stock wires in the car. Over time, they tend to corrode or rust. |
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Silver Member Username: LewassBoomfield Hills, MI USA Post Number: 456 Registered: Jan-06 | Alternator is 105 amps stock. The car no longer stalls, and runs fine... now that I raised the throttle @ idle... Here are some better pictures showing the 4 gauge wire I'm using, and the ~8 gauge battery post I'm hooked to. I think I'll attach the power wire straight to the battery top post, what do you think?...   |
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Gold Member Username: CarguyPost Number: 5427 Registered: Nov-04 | Your power wires should always be connected directly to the battery via fuse. |
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