As soon as my system starts to bump, the speaker/amp clip or whatever, and shut down. I notice when it happens the protection light comes on; I turn it down, and then it kicks back on. Well, until I turn it up again that is.
This is frustrating. I have done an extremely clean install and now this. I am briging one CompVR12 with half of the 800.4 amp. The amp is set to low pass and the X-over is at 100Hz on the amp and 80Hz on the Alpine 9813 X-over.
Do you think one side of my amp is bad? Maybe I will test that thought... The other side of the amp is running two CDT-61a's.
Sub is wired in parallel. My connections are directly derived from kicker support. For example there are four connections 1) red, 1) black, 1) red/white dot, 1) black/white dot.
The red/white and red are connected together and the black and black/white are connected together. The black/white ground is connected to the (-) on the bridged setting dropping sub to 2ohm? The red is connected to the (+) bridged respectively.
Part of my problem may be my inability to set my Alpine 9813 up with my Kicker 800.4 amplifier.
All I know is when I start to pound it the amp shuts off; then I turn down the volume and the amp kicks back on. When I first hooked it up about a week ago, it was doing this often but has since been doing better (better is not good enough) as time goes on and speaker/amp break in.
I see your problem already. you have a 4+4 ohm DVC sub wired in parallel for a 2 ohm load. you're presenting that load to a bridged pair of amplifier channels, which are only stable to 4 ohms, since when a stereo amp is bridged, it "sees" half the actual load, thus it's the same as a 1 ohm stereo load. the amp is going into thermal overload protection.
what you need is, another of the same sub, or a mono amp for the one sub. with two, you can run one "2 ohm" sub (bridged coils) on each of two unbridged channels.
if you get two 4 ohm subs, (2+2 ohm DVC in this case) you can wire tehm to the amp with all four channels bridged into two channels, with one amp per bridged channel.
with a mono amp, you'll have your single 2 ohm sub, presenting a 2 ohm load to the amp, and getting full output. a 300 watt @ 2 ohm mono sub amp isn't highly expensive, and would be a match to a single compVR
Oh no... This is bad news... I have made a custom install to one sub. With the MX on the deck it is hitting hard before it shuts off. Can I keep it wired like this without destroying anything? How about if I just hook the 12 up without bridging and only show it 200 watts? I guess I can wire that up and try.... What other type of sub would work for my amp when bridged? Or am I stuck because of the amp. I really only want a single 12" and I spent alot of time building the box etc.
As for the ground, I know it can be better and I will do that asap. Thanks, SteveO
single sub and bridged amp, just get teh 4 ohm single coil version of your sub, or 2+2 ohm DVC.. whichever is offered. CompVR comes in 2+2 and 4+4 this is just a matter of matching the sub and amp properly.
Bummer... I think I confirmed your thoughts. Basically, The sub slams when only connected to one channel. The CompVR does come in 2+2, but I must have the 4+4. Well, I guess I am in the market for another sub.
So, any ideas on a sub under $200 that will slam harder or cleaner than a kicker CompVR? I mean, I chose this speaker because of the great reviews. However, I am thinking maybe upgrade, but not to a $300 sub... Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated. And oh ya, anyone want to buy a two week old 4+4 DVC CompVR for $100?
you can buy a new compVR 12" for $99 if you shop around.. just get a second one put one on each channel or, find someone looking to buy a compVR, and have them buy the 2+2 model and trade ya
Thanks for the advise. Please if you would be so kind to confirm this. I will be able to use the Kicker 800.4, 2 chanels to mids/highs and 2 chanels bridged to a CompVR 12" 2+2 ohm sub.