Okay, here's the situation: I have a 1985 Chevrolet Blazer S-10 SUV, and I have two DVC JC-Power 12" subswoofers in a sealed box connected to a MTX Audio 1501D amplifier in a parallel hookup because it offers the best sound. Everything seems to be hooked up fine, but when I accelerate the subwoofer goes out, but the damn amplifier remote light is still lit! Then when I deccelerate or brake, the subs kicks back on again! I checked the wiring for scratches and damage, but they're all good and in working condition. My battery is a Everstart MAXX S1 with 875 cranking amps (I don't know if this really needed but I'll mention it anyway). I've switched the ground 4 times and I still have the same problem. What could be making my sub kick on and off when I accelerate/deccelerate? Somebody, anybody, help me! This situation is starting to get annoying and embarassing and this configuration worked for months....
nothing makes sense... lol u said u checked your grounds, check em again.. also did u replace your RCA wires?? the HU might be sliding or pinchin somewhere....
Okay B, check this out: The ground is good. When I accelerate, now I hear a scratching noise in my all my speakers and the lights dim at night when I have it on. I'm staring to think it's an radio wiring problem as I didn't do the radio wiring, Beat Buy did and they used this HUGE harness with all of this crap hooked up to it. I think it's touching something that it shouldn't. Any idea of where to look 1st for troubleshooting?
huge harnesses are fine, they use two and they're just long, thats how it is.
if you only have that one subamp hooked up, the only modification they should've made is tagging a remote wire (that sends a signal to turn yer amp on) to a blue/white (or in some cases just blue) wire. well, thats the only mod unless you kept yer stock radio. if you did keep yer stock radio instead of getting an aftermarket, they'll also have tagged the purple, purple/black, green, and green/black wires as well, which go to hi-low converters which are transformers that turn yer stereo's rear right and rear left signal into a low level voltage suitable for RCAs. yer problem sounds like maybe a speaker wire is grounding out. a speaker wire grounding can affect all your speakers. as for why this happens when you accelerate, i'm stumped! yer lights dimming has to do with you having an electrical system not up to par. if those subs are 4ohms and in parallel, yer amp is delivering 1500W RMS. and thats a lot of power if you haven't upgraded yer alt. 1500W / 14.4v = 105A, add 60-80A for normal car operation... you need a 180A alt to run all that w/o any dimming + 2guage wire from yer batt to yer amp, w/a 150A fuse at the batt.
*UPDATE* I found out what the problem was: the wiring harness that Best Buy had installed in my car was faulty! It was very weak and shoddy, so I took out the cable they installed and installed my own, installed new lugs on my electrical connections (battery, engine, amp/subs, etc.), and now it sounds the way I want it. To sum it up: I lost +$100 fooling with Best Buy. Crutchfield wiring diagrams are my savior.
yah, when i bought my fisrt HU, i got it at best buy, and i asked them how much it'd be for them to install it. they said $50, which is norm, but to me, never having heard a real install price in my life before, seemed outrageous, so i decided to do it myself. It took me four hours, but it was well worth doing it myself. and now i install for a living, go me. well, not for a living... but yah...
