Hi Everyone, I installed a Viper 791XV on my 96 Z28 Camaro and every feature on the alarm side works perfectly, my dilemma with the remote start. When I try to start my car with the key it doesn't turn over, however the starter "clicks" like you are trying to start it with a low battery. It does the same thing when I try to remote start it, the remote start does go thru normal start sequence though. If I go in and change the anti-grind feature off in the features menu the remote start works perfectly, but it still won't start with the key. I've checked all the connections and wires over and again and they are solid. My V.A.T.S bypass I built with the proper resistor works correctly and did the tach learning and that is fine. It seems to me it has something to do with the anti-grind/starter kill connection.
Here are how my wires from the remote start satellite are connected:
Green-yellow starter wire on the key side
Purple-yellow starter wire on the starter side
(2) 12V constant- red wire in the ignition harness; both connect to the same wire since there is only one
Orange-brown accessory in the ignition harness
Pink-Pink ignition wire
Pink/White-orange 2nd ignition wire
I'm stumped! Any input appreciated, thanks in advance for your help.
Every camaro and mid 90's chevy i've done, the accy is orange in the ignition harness, second accy is brown. but seems like the other connections are good. and try to make your starter wire one again. like solder the key side and starter side together again, see if it starts. if not then it would be something i would have to look at. its porbably something simple like a fuse under the hood.
Thanks Ruthless! i will make the changes to the connnections you recommend after work and let you know how it turns out. i currently have the starter wire as one again with the green and purple wires connected on their respective sides. the car starts fine both with the key and the remote start, but only if i have the anti-grind feature off. will let you know.
Ruthless in your post you said "second accy is brown." To clarify, is the brown in the ignition harness second accy or second ignition? If it is second accy which wire on the relay satelitte should I connect it to?
there should be a secondary harness on your remote start relay... it has a orange, pink, blue/white, and purple. but you have to use a relay from the orange wire because it is a negative small current wire. you need a positive high current wire for that. but if you have it hooked up like this... then you should be fine.
Red +12v to the Red wire in your ignition harness. Pink to the Pink wire in your ignition harness Orange to the Orange wire in your ignition harness Pink/White to your Brown wire in your ignition harness
The second accy option, and the second ignition (pink/white) have the same amount of current output, and they happen at the same time. So you can use it for it if you are not comfortable with using relays. One way isn't as good as the other.
Ruthless.......I rewired the wires from the satellite per your instructions with orange to orange and pink/white to brown and cut the starter wire in two again, it solved one problem the car now remote starts with the anti-grind feature on (which it wouldn't before), but it still doesn't start with the key. I tested the wires with a volt meter.....when I remote start the purple wire is getting power and the green isn't and vise versa when I use the key. This leads me to conclude it is the starter kill, since the starter circuit isn't completing. Maybe there's a wire on the brain itself I should be looking for, any suggestions?????????
fyi....I am using the pink wire of the secondary 4 wire harness on the remote start relay for my vats bypass relay!!!!!!
Use the blue and white wire off the secondary remote start harness for your vats bypass. that is the status output and It sends a negative signal when it remote starts. The pink wire is meant for the use of a relay to a third ignition.
And when you remote start the Purple wire is an output signal. It will get +12v when remote started and then that goes through your fuse box and then to either a large relay to your starter to start it or directly to your starter.
When you use a key, think of your key cylinder as a large relay...
You have either 1 or 2 +12v inputs (the red on yours) And 4 outputs (the orange(accy), pink(ignition), brown(2nd accy), and yellow(starter). When you turn the key to accy position, it sends +12v out through the accy(orange), when you turn it to On, it sends it through the accy(orange) and ignition(pink). As well as your 2nd Accy. When you crank it, your ignition(pink) and your starter(yellow) get the +12v. Then your key goes back to the On position.
So you should get the 12 volt output on the green wire when you use the key. If your remote start relay(the black wire with the 11 gauge or so wires coming off of it, purple,green,pink,pink/white,redx2,orange) is working then it should output 12 volt on the purple wire also. Try to get a replacement one somewhere. But for now just connect your starter wire as one, and connect the purple wire to it. That way it remote starts and works with the key. Bad thing is that it won't have a starter kill until it is fixed.
Ruthless, Thanks for all you time and effort. After more hours on my back under the dash of my car than I care to admit I finally isolated the final issue, why my car wouldn't start with the key. The reason was the orange wire from the 12 pin harness was grounding out on a piece of metal under the dash even thought nothing was attached to it and causing the remote start to stay engaged. Just for sh*ts and grins or inspiration, I don't know which, I taped off the end of the wire and boom it cranked right up with the key. So the alarm and remote start are working perfectly now. Again thanks for your all your help!
I have a couple other questions. I currently have my alarm wired to open both doors when you disarm the alarm. What I want to do is change it to where the drivers opens on the first pulse then the passengers door opens with a second push of the unlock button (progressive unlock).
Here's how I have it wired currently:
-green wire from the alarm harness connected to the door lock wire
-blue wire from the alarm harness connected to two diodes, one leads to the all doors unlock wire the other leads to the door trigger wire to "wake up" the BCM
Before I make any changes I just wanted to clarify since it isn't specified in the installation manual, is the light blue wire (second unlock output)the wire I connect to the drivers door unlock or the blue wire from the door lock harness. I am going to attach the "wake up" wire to the driver door unlock pulse, since it won't be needed on the second unlock pulse because the BCM will already be awake.
Lastly, is there any way to wire the remote start to work safely on a 6-speed? I connected the remote start so I could use the valet feature and start the car, activate the remote start, and remove the keys go back inside and let the air conditioner run. Gotta beat the TEXAS HEAT somehow! Is there a neutral wire on the transmission or at the BCM or any other way to wire the remote start to start the car without me having to be in the car engaging the clutch? Please advise.
Alright for the 2 pulse unlock. Your right, use the Green wire to lock both. The solid blue one on the keyless harness for drivers door. Then you could use any other extra wire to unlock just the passengers door. Like say the 2nd unlock or the 2nd channel output (red/white).
For the 6 speed.
Safely, no, but it is doable. At your BCM I don't believe there is any neutral safety wire that you could hook up. But if you look at your clutch and depress it there is either two ways it works. A switch being pressed when the clutch moves, or a switch being depressed when the clutch is moved.
Check aroudn your clutch for that switch. That is for your starter wire, most of them are normally open and normally closed when the clutch is pushed in. What this does is engage your starter wire when your clutch is depressed.
The clutch has two meanings, one to put your engine into neutral so you can switch gears. And the other is as a safety precaution so you don't start your car while it is in gear.
So remember what I as saying about your Ignition switch where your key goes in. Think about it this way...
When you turn your key from the Off position to the Start or Crank position the +12v(red) sends a +12v signal to your starter wire(yellow) If your clutch is pressed in, then your starter is engaged. If your clutch is not pressed in then it stops at the clutch and goes no farther.
Use common sense on how to bypass it, I don't wanna say anymore, I feel it is not a safe thing to do.
But I hope it works out for you, And I am glad your camaro works for you.
Ruthless.....I finally got a chance to make the changes to my door locks. What I did is hooked up the blue wire from the door lock harness to the tan drivers side unlock wire along with a diode isolated wire to the door trigger wire to "wake up" the BCM. I hooked up the light blue (2nd unlock wire) to the gray/black passenger unlock wire. When I press the unlock button on the remote nothing happens, no matter how may times I try to unlock it. If I take the light blue 2nd unlock wire and change it to the orange/black unlock all doors wire the first press of the unlock buttom on the remote "wakes up" the BCM then and 2nd press unlocks both doors.
