Alternator mounting dilemma!
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Silver Member Username: Safe_crackerChicago, IL US Post Number: 314 Registered: Jan-06 | Ok, I need a 300 amp alt (at least) and all I have room for unless I mod a different bracket (if even possible) is the stock unit. I have a 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP (LS76 3.8L vin K, supercharged), the largest amount of amperage in the stock casing is 200A but I need to power 2 Kicker sx1250.1's and a newly aquired Kicker sx900.4 plus the car, lol. Has anyone had any problems like this or maybe with a similar car (grand am )? Just looking for ideas as I don't want to be limited on power, thanks..Polo.. |
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Gold Member Username: CarguyPost Number: 5366 Registered: Nov-04 | Why don't you get a 2nd battery and an isolator, along with 200A alternator? It'll be much easier and cheaper than custom building 300A alternator for your car. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfWisteria, Lane USA Post Number: 11281 Registered: Dec-03 | rewind the stock alternator, have one built for you, or do what Isaac suggested, although really even with those amps I doubt you'll be running them at full power so you should be fine @ 200A anyway for daily use. |
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Silver Member Username: Safe_crackerChicago, IL US Post Number: 317 Registered: Jan-06 | The largest amperage set they can get in the stock casing is 200A. I am a bass nut and I like a lot of "old school" and new stuff like Mike Jones and 3-6 which is VERY demanding on an electrical system. I was told not to got with an isolator because it would be just another item to draw power. Which batteries/isolator would you guys recommend? Also I use quite a bit of bass boost so ya they do max current, especially if my brother comes over, lol. Polo..  |
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Silver Member Username: FandimReno, Nevada United State... Post Number: 778 Registered: Jun-05 | Use an isolator that's NOT one of the little stinger 'relay' type isolators. Get a three post isolator. They carry them at most automotive shops.. (www.summitracing.com) These will cause about a .4 - .7 drop in the voltage - you can fix this by getting an external regulator for your alternator, and running it at like 15.5ish volts, and you'll be fine. |
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Silver Member Username: Safe_crackerChicago, IL US Post Number: 318 Registered: Jan-06 | Should I still look into getting a 300A? I am looking into fabricating a bracket for it, just tryng to find something close in dimension. I don't mind having to modify the casing but these transverse engines are a pain especially when supercharged! Polo.. |
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Gold Member Username: CarguyPost Number: 5371 Registered: Nov-04 | Polo, you may be a bass nut, but you'll probably go deaf before you use up all of 200A. The problem with a custom bracket is, if something goes wrong, you're screwed. You'll need a tow truck to get home. 2 batteries (one Redtop starter, one yellowtop for amps) and an isolator (make sure this matches your current demand). Upgrade your wires to 2-0 gauge and you should have enough bass to blow your car up. |
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Silver Member Username: Safe_crackerChicago, IL US Post Number: 319 Registered: Jan-06 | You know that is the problem, I am going deaf that is why I need the extra power, lol. Thanks for the input, Polo.  |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfWisteria, Lane USA Post Number: 11310 Registered: Dec-03 | really a 200A should be plenty if this is for personal use and not SPL competitions. You probably won't run the system at full volume for long periods anyway and remember, even at half of full volume (by full vol I mean on a dummy load with a tone generator in a lab) you're using a tenth the full power.. so instead of 300A, you'd be drawing 30A at half volume.. less in reality due to the dynamics of the source (music) and the reactive nature of speakers. I'd just go with the 200A and maybe a second battery like a Kinetik on an isolator. Better all around way to go than a massive alternator. |
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