Should I put a midbass driver in front door?
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Silver Member Username: StamantPensacola, FL USA Post Number: 106 Registered: Sep-04 | Is it a good idea to put a midbass driver in the current 6.5" location and then adding a seperate kickpanel for 6.5" components? Is this too much for the front stage? If this is a good idea, do you run a four channel amp to the midbass drivers and comps or two seperate two channels? Thanks in advance. |
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Silver Member Username: AlteraudiousaConcord Post Number: 240 Registered: Jan-06 | Well more than likely your kickpanel are doesn't have enough space to properly facilitate a 6.5 driver. I would put the 6.5 in the door and a 4in in the kick with the tweet along side it. |
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Silver Member Username: StamantPensacola, FL USA Post Number: 107 Registered: Sep-04 | David, so use the 6.5" from the comp set in the door and a 4" driver with the tweeter from the comp set in a seperate kickpanel. |
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Silver Member Username: AlteraudiousaConcord Post Number: 244 Registered: Jan-06 | certain companys like CDT have a 4in midrange driver. I believe DLS and Dynaudio have some too. I would not put the 6.5 driver in the kick as a kick is usually sealed and like i stated before it'll take a good amount of space to facilitate a 6.5. 4in driver is easy to install and also is more directional than the 6.5. Thats they way i'm running, or going to run my setup when i get around to it. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfWisteria, Lane USA Post Number: 11083 Registered: Dec-03 | I have a 3way front stage in my car. 8" midbass, 3" midrange, 1" tweeter (dynaudio system 360) they work wonderfully if you take the time to position them properly and sound deaden the mounting locations to kill any resonance, then fiberglass the pods to aim them. Aiming the midbass just right is vital to a good sounding 3way front stage though. You really can't just slap it into the door flat and hope to get good imaging. You'll also want ample power to drive a big front stage like this. carstereo.com has some installs in the gallery section by various folks with some great 3way setups.. if you have the time its worth browsing through.. the first ten pages of gallery cars I think I saw maybe half a dozen setups like that. |
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Gold Member Username: Mikechec9Http://www.cardomain.c... Post Number: 2138 Registered: May-05 | strange glass. i've never experienced this essential component to aiming a 3-way's mid-bass. in a 2-way, most certainly. but when the highest hz are around 300-315, the most immediate concern should be the mid-range. and the 5.25-9" should be the least of these. no? |
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Silver Member Username: AlteraudiousaConcord Post Number: 266 Registered: Jan-06 | aiming midbass is vital to those who actually can hear a difference or go to comps. Most people won't really notice a difference. BUt it is important to aim ther midbass too but you can get away with it for the "normal" person. Anything really over 150hz i believe becomes directional. BUt i would agree that the smaller midrange driver is the most important to aim. |
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Gold Member Username: Mikechec9Http://www.cardomain.c... Post Number: 2143 Registered: May-05 | '03 world champion: http://buwaldahybrids.com/Project%20Altima.htm certainly not the norm. 6.5 in stock locations. no aiming required. |
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Gold Member Username: Jonathan_fGA USA Post Number: 5591 Registered: May-04 | "strange glass. i've never experienced this essential component to aiming a 3-way's mid-bass. in a 2-way, most certainly. but when the highest hz are around 300-315, the most immediate concern should be the mid-range. and the 5.25-9" should be the least of these. no?" Remember that the Dyn 3 ways crossover at 700hz with shallow slopes. The volume level on differing axises becomes an issue past 200hz with that 8" midbass driver, enough to make an enormous difference. That isn't even taking harmonics into account. The Iridiums are easier to work with. |
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Gold Member Username: Mikechec9Http://www.cardomain.c... Post Number: 2145 Registered: May-05 | yeah, i do recall the shallow slopes (6db a think). that is a huge difference though. the 360 3" drops to 500hz vs the 6.3's 315hz (active). i would have figured the largest benefit to 3-ways is the 8" being dedicated to midbass, while the 3" remains free to reproduce all the midrange, on into the highs. expecting the 8" to reproduce 5-700hz as optimally as a 3" is clearly not dyn's position. based on the relatively strange/awkward xo, seems like the system is just designed to be a floor mounted set. |
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Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfWisteria, Lane USA Post Number: 11142 Registered: Dec-03 | http://www.dynaudiousa.com/products/car/cross.htm although I'm working on a linkwitz 24dB XO for the Dyns now.. I want to see how they do with a steeper slope. |
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Gold Member Username: Jonathan_fGA USA Post Number: 5599 Registered: May-04 | "expecting the 8" to reproduce 5-700hz as optimally as a 3" is clearly not dyn's position. based on the relatively strange/awkward xo, seems like the system is just designed to be a floor mounted set." A good 8" will do a better job at 500hz than a dome mid could ever dream of. Most home audio systems with these setups have crossovers set around 700-800hz for that reason. A 3" dome mid doesn't gain any big advantage over a 6.5" or 8" midbass driver until you get to above 1khz or so. Even 4" cone mids with decent excursion run into issues around 300hz or so, much less a more delicate soft dome midrange. In a car, it requires extreme attention to detail to make it work, but the reward is well worth it. DLS gets the imaging and ease of install award, but I like the Dyns better for SQ. "although I'm working on a linkwitz 24dB XO for the Dyns now.. I want to see how they do with a steeper slope." I've played around with them active, it'll really clean up that midrange driver  |
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