Alright, i have two KICKER CVR10 in my trunk the subs are powered by an SPL2-820. When i turn the key, the amp works fine, most of the time. But when i start the car, it doesnt work, after driving for a while with it like this i have found that when i press my brake pedal it kicks in. So in other words it only works when the car is off and when i hit the brake sometimes (and no, never when i hit bumps . . . (thats what i dont get) its only when the brake lights are on. It makes no sense to me and i figured well, why not ask a pro . . . so i went to Hardcor Audio, a car sound system shop thats always answering my dumb questions. Except this time they were stumped "never seen an amp do anything like that" he said try it in someone elses car system and see if same thing happens. Have not got around to it cause all of my friends dont have ststems. So could someone please help me out because im lost. Hardcor Audio also said that my wiring was correct so i have ruled that out completely. The amp has never gone into protect mode either. Im begging for help because im completely lost.
Travis LaMance
Unregistered guest
Posted on
I would double check that the remote turn on wire is connected correctly to the HU, and use a voltmeter to check that the remote lead gets power when the radio is on, but that's just me. That would be the only thing that makes sense to me.
Yeah, it's got to be either the remote wire or the ground wire. Did you hook it up yourself? And if so, where did you run the remote wire to, the fuse box or the HU?
make sure you have both positives coming from the same place and both negatives from the same place otherwise youll get a ground loop which makes a humm in the speaker (could be front back or subs)
with a dual amp kit you should have enough wire length to connect both ground wires to the same screw
my guess is you have a ground in a 'dead zone' of the car metal and when you press your brake the brake lights create a circuit increase thus charging the dead spot
when you start the car the circuit shifts in some spots considered a bad ground
with the car running all the amperage is being sucked up by the ignition coil and anything else electric under the hood and in the dash
so basically with the car off that dead spot has very weak negative.. but enough to work
when you turn the car on theres other things hard wired to the battery thats stealing what little negative power that little spot of metal had which could be why that amp turns off
if you have both amps grounded to the same spot then one of the amps is more efficient then the other.. my guess is the one that turns on is the more efficient one because its not being stubborn by not turning on because theres not enough negative (takes less power to make the other one work)"
thats what this guy said a while ago but i tried several spots . . . and there arent that many. I even tried running a long 8 guage to the negative on the battery and still wouldnt do anything . . . same problem.
just to fill you in, before i had two amps hooked up same power source, same ground spot, same remote, seccond amp worked fine this one i want to use didnt, and still wont. Reason for wanting to use this one: (you all probably know the difference between 25RMS*2 and 150RMS*2)