Bronze Member Username: TekniqalFlagstaff Post Number: 45 Registered: Oct-05 | Do you think that this amp bridged would be too much for these components? I am not doing rear speakers so I would bridge it to 2 channels. JL site says... Rated Power (4 Channel Mode): 75 W RMS x 4 @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm (11V-14.5V) Rated Power (Bridged to 2 Channel): 150 W RMS x 2 @ 3 ohm-8 ohm (11V-14.5V) I am not sure exactly how speakers blow but if it is caused by too much power then I want to be careful about my amp choice. The speakers are rated 70W RMS but I see alot of sites recommending 25w to 150w RMS amps. Thanks guys. |
Anonymous | More speakers blow from distortion, than "Too Much Power" |
Bronze Member Username: TekniqalFlagstaff Post Number: 46 Registered: Oct-05 | but could they blow from 150W RMS do you think? I tried to contact JL but no help. |
Bronze Member Username: TekniqalFlagstaff Post Number: 47 Registered: Oct-05 | Another question I have is this, do I need 2 patch cables if I am just running front components on bridged channels? I am looking at buying this wiring kit: StreetWires 8-gauge Amp Wiring Kit with Patch Cable Thanks |
Bronze Member Username: Nutty91rsBloomington, Indiana USA Post Number: 43 Registered: Oct-05 | It will be fine if you don't crank it till it distorts, and you should only need 1 set of patch cables to run a 4 channel amp in 2 channel mode, it will have a switch to run off of 2 inputs. |
Bronze Member Username: TekniqalFlagstaff Post Number: 50 Registered: Oct-05 | Great Crutchfield is retarded, they told me I'd need 2 patch cables even if I were to bridge. Idiots. |
Bronze Member Username: TekniqalFlagstaff Post Number: 51 Registered: Oct-05 | Sorry to revive but I have all my stuff installed in my car. But since I bought the amp online I dont have a owners manual I have a couple questions. I am bridging to 2 channels so I plugged my left speaker in the rear and my right speaker in the front. This means that I dont have the option to balance the sound thru the receiver correct? Another thing that is weird is that when I switch the "Input Voltage" to "High" the music is quieter than with it on "Low" whats with that? I do have the 2ch/4ch switch to 2ch. Heres the link to the product to view the switch board. http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=254 |
Silver Member Username: ThigpenRVA, Va Usa Post Number: 292 Registered: Sep-05 | why didnt you just get a 300/2. would have cost less and been easier :-p |
Bronze Member Username: TekniqalFlagstaff Post Number: 52 Registered: Oct-05 | umm not much of a price difference used on ebay. Plus I wanted 150W :P I paid $265 Shipped and the thing looks BRAND new. Im happy. |
Silver Member Username: ThigpenRVA, Va Usa Post Number: 295 Registered: Sep-05 | unless im wrong 300 divided by two is 150 :-p but yea i guess it doesnt make a difference whatever floats your boat |
Gold Member Username: Jonathan_fGA USA Post Number: 4995 Registered: May-04 | They'll be fine with that much power. You have to remember that an RMS rating for speakers is what they can continuously take, meaning that JL woofer will dissipate 70W all day long as long as it is moving. With music in this case, you will very rarely get the 150W RMS (assuming your gains are set correctly). 150W RMS will only occur on things like hard drum kicks and other dynamic peaks. Let's say that drum kick is 6db louder than the rest of the music, that means that the rest of the signal averages a calm, cool 37.5W RMS. And this is at a very high volume level. You've got nothing to worry about. Two, distortion isn't what kills speakers. There are only two things that kill a speaker, heat and overexcursion. I guess you could add general idiocy like water exposure and other stupid things, but they don't count. The only thing that kills speakers is excessive power, usually from clipping since the average power of a clipped wave is much higher than that of a sinusoidal waveform. This results in either mechanical damage due to overexcursion, or thermal damage due to the heat of power generated. |