Car Electrical Systems (For Audio and big amps)

 

New member
Username: Alexv305

Tavernier, FL USA

Post Number: 3
Registered: Oct-05
Ok guys, I have this minor problem.

My exact system is as follows:
One - Audiobahn 1200watt amp (600 RMS)
Two - Pioneer 6x8 4-way speakers
Two - Pioneer 6x9 3-way speakers
One - Boss PD-3000 (2000 RMS)
Two - Kicker Solo-Baric L5 15 inchers (750 RMS x 2 = 1500 RMS Total)

If I am correct my 1997 Ford Crown Victoria has a 130 amp alternator. My Audiobahn 1200 watt amp should use up about 28-30 amps of average current draw at the RMS rating. Also, I do believe the Boss PD-3000 would use 96-100 amps of average current draw at the RMS rating. That is a total of 130 amps right there. What I dont understand is my lights in the car do not dim at all. I have a 1 farad power capacitor going to both amps (two amps hooked up to one power cap). I don't know what would be cheaper or turn out better, a new alternator? or should I get around a 5 farad power capacitor?

The bass hits, but I can definitely tell these Kickers can hit way harder. They also tend to distort slightly at high volume levels, I would guess this is due to insufficient power supply.

The Boss amp is 1 ohm stable. It produces 1000 RMS x 2 at 1 ohm and I have the Subwoofers wired in parallel down to 2 ohms per subwoofer, which equals 1 ohm impedence on the amp.

I would highly appriciate any help with this,
aLeX VaLLeDoR
 

New member
Username: Alexv305

Tavernier, FL USA

Post Number: 4
Registered: Oct-05
Would I need another battery? If I do need a bigger alternator what size would you recommend? Would one battery be enough? There are so many things that could be wrong, please help me with this and tell me what you would recommend..

Thanks again,
aLeX
 

New member
Username: Alexv305

Tavernier, FL USA

Post Number: 5
Registered: Oct-05
Im guessing my entire sound system draws

600 RMS
2000 RMS
Equals = 2600 RMS
2600/13.8 = 188 amps

So do I need a 200 amp alternator or bigger? I dont think 12 amps is enough to run the rest of the car's electronics on.

I've sort of got this but I need help...
 

Bronze Member
Username: Nocc1n

US

Post Number: 63
Registered: May-05
I would say get a H.O. alternator, that would be your best bet.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Nocc1n

US

Post Number: 64
Registered: May-05
One about 220A or so, which would be at about 2000 rpms. So your lights would still dim at idle. But you shouldn't have a problem when driving around.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Glasswolf

Wisteria, Lane USA

Post Number: 10747
Registered: Dec-03
actually alex didn't even compute for efficiency.
both are class D I believe, so it's more like this:
(2600/12)*1.2 = current draw at full output.

260A of current for those two amplifiers.

read these links if ya want a good charging system:
http://www.wickedcases.com/caraudio/capacitors.html
http://www.wickedcases.com/caraudio/charging.html
http://www.betteraudio.com/geolemon/newmain/battcapalt/
http://www.bcae1.com/charging.htm
http://www.bcae1.com/chargin2.htm
http://www.wickedcases.com/caraudio/batteries.html
http://www.the12volt.com/info/recwirsz.asp
 

New member
Username: Alexv305

Tavernier, FL USA

Post Number: 6
Registered: Oct-05
No one is class AB and the other is a High-Current amplifier.

So GlassWolf, you would recommend a 260A?
 

New member
Username: Alexv305

Tavernier, FL USA

Post Number: 7
Registered: Oct-05
One amp is class AB and the other is a High-Current amplifier.

So GlassWolf, you would recommend a 260A?
 

Platinum Member
Username: Glasswolf

Wisteria, Lane USA

Post Number: 10758
Registered: Dec-03
the Boss is class T. that one I know.
I didn't see a model for the Abahn so I'll assume that's your class AB amp?

in any case, for class T and D amplifiers, use a 1.2 multiplier for efficiency.
for class AB, you'd use 1.5 since they are less efficient.
if one is truly class AB, it'll draw even more current.
 

Platinum Member
Username: Glasswolf

Wisteria, Lane USA

Post Number: 10759
Registered: Dec-03
btw, the second link I gave explains all of this, but the current draw values are all for the amplifiers themselves.
you'll also still need to add your factory alternator rating to the total for the size of your new alternator.

remember it still has to handle all the needs of the car itself as well.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Nocc1n

US

Post Number: 69
Registered: May-05
ooo i didnt think about calculating the efficiency, im glad your a genious =)
 

New member
Username: Alexv305

Tavernier, FL USA

Post Number: 8
Registered: Oct-05
Thanks for all the help guys..

aLeX
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