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B-dizzle Unregistered guest | is a Alpine MRD-M300 or a Alpine MRD-M500 better to power 2 300W RMS 4ohm SVC subs? And i don't want you to tell me to get a kciker or sumtin, i wanna know which alpine is better. Thanx alot |
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Silver Member Username: Its_bacon12Post Number: 384 Registered: Dec-03 | the MRD will pump out 600w rms at 2 ohms, so if you hook the subs up paralell, you'll get a 2 ohm load and get 300w rms on each sub so the MRD-M300 is a better choice for those subs |
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Mr.Knowalot Unregistered guest | Bacon, you're a duesh bag. You can't set up SVC subs in parallel, you can only do that with DVC. So the MRD-M500 would be better for this guy because it does 250 watts X 1 at 4 ohms. |
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Silver Member Username: Its_bacon12Post Number: 394 Registered: Dec-03 | .......are u stupid? connect the two subs together in paralell to get a total of a 4 ohm load and i thought the m300 was 300w rms at 4 ohm so its my bad, i read its 300w rms at 2 ohms.. the MRD-M500 would be a better choice, giving each sub 250 watts rms rather than 150w rms each on the MRD-M300 and by connecting both negatives to the neg on the amp and both positived to the positive on the amp will give you a paralell circuit and thus dropping the load to 2 ohms learn some stuff about car audio before calling people names, "deush bag" |
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Silver Member Username: Its_bacon12Post Number: 395 Registered: Dec-03 | woops i meant to get a total of a 2 ohm load in the first sentance |
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Silver Member Username: Its_bacon12Post Number: 396 Registered: Dec-03 | oh and one more thing he said TWO 300w rms subs not one..."duesh bag" |
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B-dizzle Unregistered guest | I want the opinion from glasswolf or someone respectable. Thanx |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 1839 Registered: Dec-03 | the 300 is a good match, like bacon said. |
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B-dizzle Unregistered guest | But won't the MRD-M300 only give me 150 Watts RMS to each sub? |
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B-dizzle Unregistered guest | These are what the stats are for the M300: 150 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms 300 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms These are the stats for the M500 250 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms 500 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 1873 Registered: Dec-03 | oh eyah I was thinking the 300 was 300@2 not @4. I'm not a big fan of alpine's amps for subs.. the 500 would be ok, but still underpowering the subs. your best bet would be to find an amp that can drive 600wRMS x 1 @ 2 Ohms, or 300wRMS x 2 @ 2 Ohms and use that for the subs.. give them their peak RMS ratings for power.. that'll make them nice and quick and responsive even at lower volumes. The big issue with underpowering subs, is that you tend to not get any movement at lower volumes with them.. and that makes people want to turn the gains up too far and they wind up damaging the subs. |
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B-dizzle Unregistered guest | So if i don't go with alpine, what amp do u think would be the best? |
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B-dizzle Unregistered guest | And is there a certain way i should wire the amp and the subs. |
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New member Username: DaqwnbeeST PAUL, MN USA Post Number: 2 Registered: Apr-04 | Hi-I know you can help and I hope that you do ! I am having trouble hooking up my system and the reason being is 'Several Expert CONFLICTING Non-Professional Opinions! Jacks of all trades; Master of none! {There was a helpful guy I talked to from this site that was helpful but he didn't answer me back again and i'm not getting any younger!} So . . . You seem to be the "Daddy" 'round here, which is why I chose you as the person to whom I must ask my question{s} : I have the following in my 1986 Cadillac DeVille: Stereo: Sony X-plode Amp: Kicker DX-700 Subs: Kicker XPL 8ohm{2}12 inch Cd Changer:Sony As for my questions~ First problem- ENCLOSURE: the type of enclosure I have is a bandpass {in car now} but, I also have another sub box thats just the plain rectangle sub box, if that one would be better I could switch . . . As for the bandpass: I've been told to mount my spkrs - both face out and/or one face in and one face out, and/or that I need to stuff it w/pillow stuffing and/or that I need to keep the plexi lid off, just to name a few, which way is right? Also I was told to 'daisy chain' wire them is that correct ? [pos spkr 1 to pos spkr2 to pos amp term/same for neg connect] Also I was told by one guy I could have the plexi lid on and 2 other people say definately leave it off? Second {set of}Problem{s}-AMP: Since it has a crossover, I am assuming that I should daisy wire it{if above is correct}and in assuming that, my first amp question is about the inline fuse. The inst. manual says the fuse by the battery should be 90amp? -I cannot find one anywhere! All the amp kits etc I've been checking out were all 700 + all used 60b amp fuses-should I just do that? do ya think it is perfectly safe? I also wanted to know about the install- I have all of the wiring basically ran and done,I am just confused about the crossover. It's a SWX crossover module and it came with 3 prs of chips to set the crossover point at 60, 80, or 100hz Which chip do I want in the highpass? and which in the lowpass ? I put the 100hz chip in both but I don't know if it's right. And I also don't know if I want the external pass switch set to 'low', 'high' or 'all pass'? And do I want the internal one set to high or low pass? Whew!-almost done: Ok , now on the amp, there is also a SWX Remote Gain Module that's connected with a 23 ft cord{looks like a phone cord} so it's mountable under the dash by the driver- I can set that ok once I get all of this other junk figured out! Which leaves me with one last question - I also have a built in subsonic filter to cut the ultra low freq info which the manual says is supposed to allow the amp to concentrate energy where it does the most good- above 25hz? Do I want this filter set to off or on? I have hooked up several amps in my time but I have zero experience with "modules" and I am just too paranoid to connect everything as best as I can and just put the settings on whatever and wing it -I am not sure if I could totally blow up my amp or whatever- but I did pay for my whole system and it was a bit more expensive than just chump change. So I would rather just ask you and risk catching some "$#!-" from my friends, than be some dumbass that would risk voiding my warranties, zap my own stuff, screwing myself over,and left with nothing! So better safe than sorry! And I really do appreciate you taking the time to help me out with this, your really cool and I Thank You! Much Respect, Sam |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 1880 Registered: Dec-03 | bDizzle try a JL 500/1 its rated @ 500wRMS x 1 @ 1.5 to 4 Ohms, but it's real output is at *least* 600wRMS, so you'll get full rated power to the two subs, and it'll be one of the cleanest class-D amps you'll find for the money. Zapco is another alternative to consider. |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 1881 Registered: Dec-03 | Sam, I'm going to open a new thread for this one. I'll title it 86 DeVille |
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B-dizzle Unregistered guest | Damn, that's expensive, but i'll look into it. Thanx alot. |
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Anonymous | more evidence of bacon being a retard! |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 1898 Registered: Dec-03 | look at kicker, MTX, avionixx, and JBL as well then. they are all less expensive, and have mono 600 watt sub amps @ 2 ohms. any of them should do the trick.. |