|
Silver Member Username: GoonPost Number: 320 Registered: Feb-05 | Ok, last time I gave you an update my amp turned off and never kicked back on. the determining factor was lack of current, probably from a weakend alternator. I had everything checked today and it turned out the alternator is cranking great, but I had a bad battery. so i replaced the battery and guess what...nothing kicked on. i checked the current with a dmm and everything seems to be up to par. what else should I be looking at here? I don't think the amp is bad...thanks for any input. |
|
Silver Member Username: FandimReno, Nevada United State... Post Number: 180 Registered: Jun-05 | Ok. Grab a test light, confirm a power line has a current, then, try hooking the aligator clip up to the negative wire you're using to ground the amp, now touch the pos wire. Does that draw current? If not - make a better ground. Try running a line from your battery (or the pos input of the amp) to the remote input. See if this turns the amp on. If it dosnt turn on, use a test light, and touch the screw..does it have current? If so, you might want to open up the amp, and make sure the connection hasnt come lose from the remote/ground/power lines.. Seth |
|
Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfWisteria, Lane USA Post Number: 10489 Registered: Dec-03 | battery, ok.. that'll drag down voltage as well when it's bad. that's partly why it's sometimes hard to tell if its the batt or alt that goes bad without a little testing. use that DMM and see if the remote wire is getting 12 volts when the stereo is on. if it does get 12 volts, and your power and ground are both good too, and the amp's own fuse(s) is/are not blown, you have a bad amplifier. |
|
Silver Member Username: GoonPost Number: 321 Registered: Feb-05 | Glass...I have an Orion Hcca 250. I don't see any fuses on it...i have fuses on the power wire...and thoe are good. are there fuses inside tat i missed? |
|
Platinum Member Username: GlasswolfWisteria, Lane USA Post Number: 10526 Registered: Dec-03 | depends on the generation of the amp. some Orions had glass fuses inside, under the bottom panel in a maxi-fuse holder. some did not. they didn't go to external fuses till 3rd or 4th generation.. prior to that you had to fuse them on the actual power line going to the amp for any protection |
|
Silver Member Username: GoonPost Number: 322 Registered: Feb-05 | Currently, I have fuses on the power line, one at the battery and the other after the dist. block. I believe it's a 3rd generation. It's the same amp in this post: https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/car-audio/161302.html It says digital reference, i'm not sure if mine has the 'made in the usa' stamp, but it could be faded. I'm not sure if there is a maxi fuse holder inside(not to sure what that is) but i will have to take a look when i get home...at work =( |
|
Silver Member Username: GoonPost Number: 323 Registered: Feb-05 | Ok, I tested the remote wire and it's getting 12v...i think the amp just might be bad...it was working, I don't understand how it could just stop working like that. i had the gain set correctly..... it's always one problem after another, i tell ya. |