Why is the capacitor connected to the battery side? It should be right beside the amp, as close to it as possible. You also have connection going from d block to PG amp AND one coming from 20F cap. Haven't you read enough on GlassWolf's posts on 20F and larger capacitors? I'd use 2F cap. 2 of them if you have to and skip 20F. The way the diagram should be is, d block to cap, cap to amp within 12" or less.
Isaac, the Phoenix gold amp has two inputs, that's why I had an input from the battery, and an input from the capacitor. I'm actually probably going to add a cap I already have to the setup, as well, a 1.2 farad capacitor. (I know the response times of the huge caps isnt as quick).
If the PG is like Orion 2500D (2 power connectors), then why don't you go from d block to 20F cap and from there to the PG amp? Then you can use the 1.2F on Hifonics. That'll create more even balance on PG.
Isaac, The reason I have the 20 farad capacitor coming straight from the battery, is that it has a 0 gauge input. My 1.2 farad capacitor, however, only has a 4 gauge input...
Also, is it better to use both the terminals on the yellow? running a pair of 0 gauge outs, or would it actually be a better idea, to just use one of the terminals and go to everything from the D block instead of straight from battery?
So..here's the revised setup, once again. It'd be better to do everything from the D-block etc, let me know please.
Also.. My 20f capacitor, has one more 4 gauge output...would it be better to run a 4 gauge from there, to my 4way amp? Like in this setup..?
Or, would it be better to link my caps directly together...? Something like this..?
Just curious, why are you not using the 20F cap outputs with PG amp? It certainly makes more sense. Last thing you wnat to do is supply uneven power. Either 2 0 gauge runs from battery or battery to d block, then everything else from there. Maybe you need to get a better d block. I've seen some that take 0 gauge in and have 0-2 gauge out. That is a better option cause 2 gauge will always accept 4 gauge. Here is your final option: 1.2F for Hifonics amp. 20F for PG only. 4 channel amp does not need a cap.
Isaac - I am running the 20 farad cap with the PG amp... as well as running power from the Dist block, too. In every diagram the cap is going to the battery, and PG amp.
On your 2nd last diagram, you have 1.2F going to the Hifonics, that's okay. However, on PG, you have one power from d block and another one from 20F cap. That should be eliminated. The 2 power from 20F cap should both go to PG amp only. 4 channel amp does not need any cap.
Also, during music, wouldnt all the amplifiers need the capitance equally, since it effects the entire electrical system, etc? (Not arguing with your advice on cap placement, as I know that the closer to the amplifier the faster response time, etc.. Just a general question.)
Also, during music, wouldnt all the amplifiers need the capitance equally, since it effects the entire electrical system, etc? (Not arguing with your advice on cap placement, as I know that the closer to the amplifier the faster response time, etc.. Just a general question.)
That is the correct way of utilizing both caps. The only amps that need cap filtering are the ones powering subs. Power requirements fluctuate with bass notes. The mids and highs use have more consistent current draw.
It'd be better to do everything from the D-block etc, let me know please. 
