A ho question.

 

Silver Member
Username: Bananakrill

Vallejo, California

Post Number: 142
Registered: Jul-04
I'm trying to install my HO alternator and I can't figure out exactly how to hook up the positive wire. I upgraded the battery to chassis and battery to engine wires to 2 awg, and the last one is the alt to battery. I don't get it because on my truck the positive wire goes from the alternator to some 175A fuse, and then from that same connection to the battery. Do I upgrade both wires (the alt to fuse and the fuse to battery wires) to 2 gauge? Or do I bypass the fuse and go directly to the battery from the alternator? Also, do I upgrade the battery to starter wire? I would appreciate any help.
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 3972
Registered: Nov-04
You really shouldn't bypass the fuse. If the wires are greater than 2gauge, then upgrade. You should try and match all wires.
The weakest link will be your downfall.
 

Silver Member
Username: Bananakrill

Vallejo, California

Post Number: 145
Registered: Jul-04
Very cool. So I'll upgrade both positive wires. Thanks. Then Isaac, do you suggest I upgrade the starter to battery wire also? And since the alternator is 200 amps, should I upgrade that fuse? If so, to what? 200A?
Thanks for responding so quickly. It's 8:45 pm and I've been working on this for like 4 hours!
 

Anonymous
 
you dont have to upgrade the battery to starter wire because the starter isnt pulling more amps then before the new alternator
besides the starter sucks off the battery which hasnt changed
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 3977
Registered: Nov-04
I wouldn't upgrade the 175A fuse. I doubt you'll blow it with your amps. You see 50A - 60A will be used by your car alone, so there is no way you will get all 200A from the alternator. So 175A will be just fine.
As for starter wire, no need. It is not a high current device and it won't draw any more than before.
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

Wisteria, Lane USA

Post Number: 9477
Registered: Dec-03
a 200A fuse is good then.. that rates the fuse at the capacity of the alternator
god safe place.
 

Silver Member
Username: Bananakrill

Vallejo, California

Post Number: 147
Registered: Jul-04
Thank God I don't have to change the alternator to starter wire. That would have taken forever. Thank you guys so much.
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

Wisteria, Lane USA

Post Number: 9494
Registered: Dec-03
yeah only need to change the wires that'll see higher current draw.. alt to battery, battery to amps, etc..
the starter draw doesn't change unless you change starters to a high torque starter or something
 

Silver Member
Username: Bananakrill

Vallejo, California

Post Number: 150
Registered: Jul-04
Well that's my next project. After the air intake, finishing the stinky eDead, and installing the rest of my system.
 

Silver Member
Username: Bananakrill

Vallejo, California

Post Number: 154
Registered: Jul-04
One last thing... if anybody knows. Is the belt tensioner supposed to be locked in place when you tighten it or is there supposed to be some play (4.3 vortec). It moves a little at idle and more when I rev the engine. Other than that little worry, I'm done!!
 

Gold Member
Username: Fishy

Tamarac Ft.Laud, FL USA

Post Number: 1501
Registered: Sep-04
The belt tensioner on my Explorer is spring loaded and impossible to tighten. I guess if yours is spring loaded and you have sufficient load on that belt the tensioner would move, but as long as the belt isn't slipping I wouldn't worry about it.

-Fishy
 

Silver Member
Username: Bananakrill

Vallejo, California

Post Number: 156
Registered: Jul-04
Cool, thanks Fishy. Guess what that means? I'm done with the alt install! A mechanic probably could have done it in and hour. It took me... 2 days. Thanks again everyone.
 

Gold Member
Username: Carguy

Post Number: 3994
Registered: Nov-04
Be glad you have a belt tensioner. My acura doesn't have any. You basically have to adjust it manually.
My Mustang is spring loaded. So much easier when changing alternator/belts.
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