Hey i had everything installed today but i have no idea why my subwoofer isnt coming on. Ive always been use to alpine and i cant find anything or mode to get the subwoofers to come on. Jonathan please direct me. Thanks
easy mode at first and then i held sound for 5 seconds to change to promode. The installer had no idea how to set it so he didnt wanna touch it. This is a very complicated HU at first try. Need your help to turn on the subs from the HU and set the crossovers.
Ok i got the subs to come on now and it sounds good so far. Only thing is i have front stage componants and the 2 12w6v2's in the back for all my drivers that im using in my suv. Should i stay in easymode or pro mode. What do i want the crossovers set to.. etc....
If you are running your components on the passive crossover, you have two options. You can either run easy mode, which would be the components connected to the front preouts. This allows you to set a 12db/oct only slope for the components and sub. Try 120hz (or 125, can't remember) for the comps and 80hz for the sub for starters, if it sounds thin, try dropping the front components to 100hz, or 80hz (whichever they perform cleanly at, those should handle 80hz). If the drivers handle 80hz well, drop the sub x-over down to 63hz. If they only go to 100, stick with 80hz for the sub. All settings you will do will be in the sound menu, scrolling through that will show you. You will have preset time alignment settings, choosing your car type and listening position. Anything past that will be dependant upon the fader and balance settings, which are accomplised by pushing in the volume button. Your other option would be to use Pro mode, using the mid preout (which is the rear preout in easy mode), and simply not using the LPF for that crossover preout since it would cut out the tweeter. This will allow you the more specific settings that Pro mode has to offer. For the sub, carry on in normal manner. Use a 12db/oct slope for the component speakers for starters, and 18db/oct is a good baseline for the sub. Start with 125hz for the components and 80 for the sub. Experiment as needed. You can then use time alignment to adjust to your specific needs instead of a preset value like you get in easy mode.
How do you like the 8454 MO? I had to get mine replaced because it quit playing cds, but other than that I really liked it, except for the stupid animation "movies" it has that I never use. I would also like a one button CD eject. And the remote is kind of useless. Let us know how you like it. I know Jonathan has one and Jay B too. Anyone else? We can form a CD8454Supergroup for audiophiles and wannabe audiophiles like me. Naw, just kidding about the Supergroup, but Jonathan, are there any decks comparable to the 8454 at the same price? I would think no but I'm wanting to sell mine when they send me a new one and maybe try something else.
Pioneers decks rival them in features for the price, very comparable. Alpine doesn't really have anything competitive in that price segment anymore. Clarion has some good decks too. You can disable the movies (I hate them too). As far as features, it's hard to beat, but it is a loaded head unit and is a little sloppy (slow). That's my main gripe. If I had it to do over again I'd get more external processing (x-over, etc.) and go with a simpler head unit, or simply something with an external processor like the Pioneer P9 combo. I really liked the Nakamichi CD-700 as far as it's simplistic elegance, great deck. Nice, clean look.
James... looks and sound wise i love the CD8454 and cant complain. As far as control and simplicity of using the unit its terrible from a first week of use. I found Alpine and Pioneer to be more user friendly as far as adjusting the EQ and etc... This unit has more features then most units out there right now but its really hard to get use to.
For a few hours i was thinking of putting it for sale just because of the difficulty of use and all the options it has. It cost me $500.00 and i have 3 years thru eclipse warranty.
That P9 combo is great. Reviewers really love it. I like the Nakamichi too but either unit is like $1000 at least. I'm wondering if the new Eclipses are less sloppy. Have either of you tried them? I may just sell the new 8454 I'm getting and get the newer model. It's like $700 but it would be worth it because there is a new remote control, and it might be faster. Yeah MO, the 8454 cost me $500 too. I hope I can get that much for it if I sell it.
You will get around $400 if you sell it on ebay. I have looked into it. Im getting use to the Eclipse cd8454 now. I have my crossovers figured out. I have it at a 18db slope at 80hz for my sub and its clean and tight this way. I have my mids at 12db slope at 100hz for now. It blends in well. I will probably keep my eclipse for now since i paid so much and it sounds good. Just have to get the crossovers and eq right then you can take it easy and enjoy the sound.
Not really. If you want satallite radio then the CD8455 may be better for you. It has navigation features to help you find your way around town. Its a step up but i dont use satallite radio or the navigation so im good with my CD8454. If you go with the cd8455 get ready to pay $150 more for it. It costs around $600-$675
Jonathan.... SO i played around more with my crossovers on the cd8454 and noticed that when i try to adjust my mids hpf that it wont adjust. Is it because the rcas are wired to my highs because i can control the hi lpf and it is crossed over at 200hz.
Basically i wanna be able to crossover my mids to 80hz-100hz at a 12db slope but its not adjusting or making any changes when i select it. Is this a RCA problem ?
"Jonathan.... SO i played around more with my crossovers on the cd8454 and noticed that when i try to adjust my mids hpf that it wont adjust. Is it because the rcas are wired to my highs because i can control the hi lpf and it is crossed over at 200hz."
You're hooked to the HI (front) preout. Swapping the RCAs will fix the problem.
SO i should swap to mid preout ? It wont affect the tweeters or anything right.
I have really loud tweeters right now and they can fatigue you after a while. Maybe theres a way to fix this. Could it be my gain setting on the ppi a300.2 amp ?
SO i should swap to mid preout ? It wont affect the tweeters or anything right.
I have really loud tweeters right now and they can fatigue you after a while. Maybe theres a way to fix this. Could it be my gain setting on the ppi a300.2 amp ?
"SO i should swap to mid preout ? It wont affect the tweeters or anything right."
Yup. It won't affect the tweeters as long as you don't use the LPF, and you're using passives.
"I have really loud tweeters right now and they can fatigue you after a while. Maybe theres a way to fix this. Could it be my gain setting on the ppi a300.2 amp"
If your gain is too high, it could cause this if the amp clips. It could also be that your tweeters are up higher in the door, remember that set is designed to have the tweeter relatively close to the mid. Most crossovers have a tweeter level setting, via either jumper bars or the connection of the tweeter to the crossover. Also keep in mind, tweeters tend to be a tad harsh initially, once you break them in a little bit, they'll sound softer.
Thanks, i will have them check it out at the shop i got it installed at. It should be simple swap from the Hi to MId. Whould the time alignment option work with lowering the hi's from the right and left speaker db. I have everythign set at 0db for now on the time alignment menu.
If you were to cut the volume level from time alignment, you'd only decrease the overall level of that channel (mid and tweeter) in your current configuration. The crossovers have a -3db and -6db setting for the tweeter I do believe. Try that.
The crossovers are mounted inside the doors so i whould have to have the installer take a look at it since he knows exactly what hes doing. Yeah i figured that with the ppi amp i should have had mentioned to set the tweeters to like -3 or somthing. Not even sure what he has it set to right now but they are extremely bright.