I have a stock 04 civic ex. I want to install my profile ca800 amp and 2 sony xplod 12s in. I dont often drive around just pounding my system, but I do like to bump once in awhile. This is a simple setup (I assume), but Im not hardcore. Do I need a HO alt for this? From what I have read, I am going to be producing enough power even with my factory alt (70 amp I believe). I think maybe even the yellow optima battery isnt going to be needed, but I may opt for it anyway to be safe. What about a cap to keep the lights from dimming on occasion or will this even be an issue with such a setup? I would love to get someone elses opinion and maybe even opinions on how they would set up these subs and amp. $ isnt a real issue since I am going pretty simple.
I believe that when installing an external amplifier, a HO alternator is always a good idea. Stock alternators are generally designed to keep up with the demands of the vehicle's stock equipment. Although, there some that can handle more. Besides, who knows what additions to your system you would like to make in the future? The idea that a capacitor can be used as a fix to keep your headlights from dimming is a myth. You are essentially using a bandaid to cover up a larger problem. If dimming does take place, that is a sure sign that you need a larger alternator and maybe some upgraded grounds. As for the subs and amp...if money isn't an issue, why are you buying such low end equipment?? Since you don't like to "pound your system" all the time, and like you said, money isn't and issue, I would opt for some nicer SQ equipment.
Anonymous
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well I definately appreciate your input, but I honestly really didnt get anything out of your post/reply other than you feel my equip is low end. I specifically wrote "This is a simple setup" so I am very aware that Im not dealing with 4 jl w7 here, but thanks anyway. anyone else here care to ANSWER the questions I asked and not HATE? Thanks Mike
I did say that you equip is low end and I did catch the "simple setup" portion of your post. Is it possible to have simple setup that consists of decent equipment?? I thinks so. You were the one that said money is not an issue and that implies that you can afford worthwhile gear. Did I not say anything about capacitors and alternators?? By the way, no HATE intended, just honest feedback. Looking back at your original post, I dont see one thing that I did not address.
like I said before I appreciate your input. I feel my equipment is just as decent or as good as any for what I want and expect out of it. If you want to be exact, I didnt see anything on my battery comment...I didnt see anything on how you would set up these subs/amp (only that you think they are low end)...but no harm done, I feel ya. my post said "I would love to get someone elses opinion and maybe even opinions on how they would set up these subs and amp. $ isnt a real issue since I am going pretty simple" this tranlates to I am perfectly happy with my subs and amp, so no reason to change, upgrade, etc and no need to give your input on what "low end equipment" I purchased...BECAUSE I DIDNT ASK! Quite simply put I only want suggestions on installing THESE SUBS & AMP with $ not being an issue as to the installion (alt, wiring, boxes, cap, battery...IVE ALREADY BOUGHT MY SUBS & AMP and quite happy with them) I should have been more specific..I APOLOGIZE. HONESTLY how do you expect someone to react to a comment referring to their subs/amp as low end equipment, not decent equipment, or even worthwhile????
If you want advice as to how to wire the amp and subs, specs will be needed...such as number of channels of the amp, rms power output of amp per channel, whether the amp can be bridged if it is not a mono block, recommended rms power to drive eech sub, number of voice coils per sub and resistance within each voice coil per sub.
Since the Optima yellow top will cost almost as much as a HO alternator, the alternator is the way to go. You might be able to get away with the alt. that you have, but getting one with more output will be a better way of being "safe" than the battery...especially considering the price of the battery versus the alternator. A cap will be a waste, so don't even bother. As for wiring (power, ground, speaker wire and rca) just keep in mind that you get what you pay for and the bigger the better within reason. As for the speaker box, I wouldent go for anything too fancy as far as tuning of the ports and so on considering what kind of subs you are using. Use the shape and size of the box and the available space as the determining factor of which box you choose.
The yellow top works great if you run a 2 battery / 1 alternator electrical system with the yellow top being the secondary battery and both batteries being seperated from eachother via a continuous duty solenoid or an isolator. The yellow top is a deep cycle battery and thus can be completely discharged and recharged with no internal damage done to the battery itself. Any battery that is not a deep cycle battery, will not last long if it is COMPLETELY discharged and recharged on a regular basis. So, if you like to listen to your stereo for long periods of time at high volumes with the vehicle turned off, the yellow top will work great as a secondary battery being used to run the stereo and nothing else. They can be used as a stand alone battery too, but that is not the intended use of a deep cycle battery. Caps on the other hand, are ALMOST nothing but a sales gimmick. Many people new to car audio believe that they strengthen the electrical system thus keeping lights from dimming and that they make amplifiers perform better. If the lights do dim on loud bass notes, and after installing a capacitor they no longer dim, the problem is still present and the cap is only masking the symptoms. In time the problem will only get worse and damage to the battery and the alternator is inevitable as the capacitor, once it discharges, will only put more strain on the charging system. A HO alternator is the only real fix in that situation. Caps are a good money making tool for companies that only care about net sales and don't care much for the quality and reliability of their product as caps cost very little to manufacture, rarely fail, and have many myths surrounding them and are thus easy to sell to inexperiaced users. Caps can be a nice addition to almost any car audio system ONLY if you understand what they are for and ONLY if your current charging system is adaquate. If that is the case, AC (alternating current) ripple generated by the alternator will be smoothened out and amplifier responce time will improve. They are also good for show as they often time have a nice look.
Now that I think about it, there are some companies that make good car audio equipment that make capacitors also. In my previous thread, I made it sould like ONLY low end companies make caps. That is not entirely true. But, that doesent take away form the fact that they are almost useless.
Sweet! THANKS FOR THE INFO. Its really good to know "most people" (there is always the exception) I talk to have the same opinion on caps. They do look good, but not intended for what they are mostly mistaken to be used for. AWESOME. The feedback on the Optima was great too. I definately dont need 2 batteries (maybe later on when I get hooked and have to go buy some "decent equip") Maybe I will just get the HO alt just for the hell of it. $325 isnt alot to spend by any means just to know you are safe