Subwoofer vocabulary lesson!!!
|
Bronze Member Username: MrrogersMarshall, Illinois Usa Post Number: 55 Registered: Nov-04 | ok i know what some of the terms involved with subwoofers mean but im sick of posting a new message everytime i hear something new. i need to know what things like "entry level" and "clipping" mean and anything else you can think of. it would be most appreciated!!! |
|
Gold Member Username: Jonathan_fGA USA Post Number: 4335 Registered: May-04 | Entry level simply describes a subwoofer that is primarily for the budget buyer. With entry level equipment, you are getting an upgrade better than factory, but not competition grade components. Something reliable in build (hopefully), but middle-line in performance. Clipping is a term that describes when an amplifier is pushed beyond it's limits. If you apply too much input signal to the amplifier, the output devices will struggle to produce the demanded power. Think of a typical sine wave, an exploded view of this ~ (can't blow that up any larger  ) When you drive an amplifier too hard, it will produce a square waveform at higher power, which makes the wave look "clipped", like someone took scissors and cut off the typical rounded top of the wave. What this does to a speaker, is that you will have more average power, and is basically equivalent to DC at points, it will push the speaker up and hold it there for longer, since the voice coil requires motion to cool itself, the coil will heat up more quickly and quite possibly fail, which can also damage the amplifier in the process. |
|
Silver Member Username: Subzer0Richmond, KY USA Post Number: 430 Registered: May-05 | entry level- The stock level on many companies.. RE- Example: The RE models. 175 wrms 8",10",12" subs ranging from 40-50 dollars without shipping. I hope this helps. |
|
Bronze Member Username: MrrogersMarshall, Illinois Usa Post Number: 58 Registered: Nov-04 | any other terms that a newer person wouldnt have anyclue about |
|
Bronze Member Username: UcfsaxmanOviedo/orlando, Fl Post Number: 66 Registered: May-05 | SPL= sound pressure level measured in decibels SQ= sound quality RMS= recommended power If there's anything else just ask! |
|
Gold Member Username: IlluminatorPost Number: 1255 Registered: Apr-05 | RMS is Root Mean Square...though, yes, it is recommended you match up RMS between an amp and sub rather than max power ratings. http://www.electronixwarehouse.com/education/glossary.htm That link should help immensely. |
|
Anonymous | alright this isnt car audio vocabulary but is forum vocabulary what are all those little words mean when you guys say lol, rolf,imao,imo,idk, somethimes i dont even know what you guys are talking about can someone please tell me what they mean. thanks. |
|
New member Username: Bdavis_123Post Number: 10 Registered: Jul-05 | lol=laugh out loud idk=i dont know |
|
Silver Member Username: Riebread77Post Number: 443 Registered: Jun-05 | lmao = laughing my As$ off (the forum doesn't allow me to say a-$$ without the dash) imo = in my opinion |
|
Gold Member Username: IlluminatorPost Number: 1264 Registered: Apr-05 | 'idk' and 'imo' are pure forms of laziness, heheh. |
|
Gold Member Username: GlasswolfWisteria, Lane USA Post Number: 8836 Registered: Dec-03 | this is why I started my "word of the week" threads a couple of weeks ago |
|
Silver Member Username: PhuktupbassheadScottsdale, Arizona United State... Post Number: 179 Registered: May-05 | Well, here's my contribution: Fs = resonance frequency of the driver. In free-air, the driver's impedance will peak at this frequency. Pe = Thermal capacity of the driver, in Watts. If continuously driven above its rated Pe, the driver may prematurely burn out and fail. Qes = Electrical Q of the driver at Fs. Qes is a measure of the driver's tendency to resonate at Fs, based on its electrical characteristics, e.g. magnet strength, magnetic circuit characteristics, etc.). The driver's overall resonance characteristics are usually dominated by Qes. Qms = Mechanical Q of the driver at Fs. Qms is a measure of the driver's tendency to resonate at Fs, based on its mechanical characteristics, e.g. surround compliance, the compliance of the spider, weight of the cone, etc. Qts = Total Q of the driver at Fs. Qts is a measure of the driver's tendency to resonate at Fs, based on its overall characteristics. Qts can be calculated using the equation: Qts= Qms*Qes/(Qms+Qes)) Re = DC resistance of the driver's voice coil. Re is less than the driver's rated impedance. Sd = Effective surface area of the driver. Roughly equal to the area of the cone plus 1/3rd of the surround. Xmag = [DUMAX] Excursion limit due to the magnetic limitations of the driver's motor. Xmag is defined as the displacement at which the BL product has fallen to 70% of its value at the cone's rest position. Xmech = Maximum physical excursion capability of the driver. Exceeding Xmech normally results in damage to the driver. Xsus = [DUMAX] Excursion limit due to the driver's suspension. Xsus is defined as the point at which the compliance of the suspension has decreased to 25% of the value at the cone's rest position. Xmax = Linear (one-way) travel of the cone. Xmax is used to determine the maximum linear SPL capability of the driver, and can be defined in a number of ways. The DUMAX definition is objectively the best one, and it is defined as the shorter of the Xmag and Xsus values, in each direction of cone travel. This definition is more useful than the older definition of Xmax, which was solely dependent on the length of the voice-coil vs. the length of the gap. Vas = Equivalent air compliance. The volume of air that has the same compliance ("springiness") as the driver's suspension. Because less air is more "springy" than more air, a large Vas represents a "loose" suspension Vd = Peak displacement volume. Vd = Sd*Xmax GlassWolf told me that I can trust the DUMAX ratings on subwoofers. So, you can pretty much trust me - I pretty much trust GlassWolf... (Which is actually pretty odd. Now that I think about it - because I have no idea who the phuk he is... however, if he isn't a car audio wizard... he's one hell of a phuk'n con artist!!!) lol |
|
Gold Member Username: GlasswolfWisteria, Lane USA Post Number: 8852 Registered: Dec-03 | The DUMAX system (machine) was designed to give a fair, unbiased rating for T/S parameters of a speaker, while maintaining linearity. By using DUMAX specs, you know you're getting specs you can compare with any other speaker, no matter who makes it, or where the tests were conducted, and the results are all going to be fairly comparable. You won't have to wonder if Brand X was using one method of testing Xmax, while Brand Y used another method to yield more favorable results, for example. just go to google and type DEFINE:DUMAX you should get plenty of info on that. |
|
Silver Member Username: FfxdevilarmsDubuque, Iowa United States Post Number: 768 Registered: Jul-04 | The RE series DO NOT range from 40-50 dollars, they range from 50-70. And i must say, they are RE's entry level, but they can beat out alot of other brands middle models. Also, shipping is very minimal because they weigh so little. |
|
Silver Member Username: 54danny54Post Number: 824 Registered: Nov-04 | i have a question lol...i was checkin subs and i was wonmdering watts the difference between RMS and music wattage lol(not max power) |
Main Forums
Today's Posts- Home Audio Forum
- Home Video Forum
- Home Theater Forum
- Car Audio Forum
- Accessories Forum
- All Forum Topics