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Silver Member Username: TipsPost Number: 129 Registered: Jan-05 | i have a pair of infinity ref 6800CS (90rms) hooked up to my alpine 9847 unit (18rms)... sometiems it sounds like the speakers are rattling and being distorted. is it possible to blow out or ruin the speakers with my head unit? i didnt think so but i heard something about too little power being bad for speakers.... |
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Silver Member Username: Bnd_rulezPhoenix, AZ USA Post Number: 651 Registered: Mar-05 | Most likely they sound like crap because they are not getting enough power. |
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New member Username: Gpz1100Post Number: 2 Registered: Jul-05 | You can easily blow speakers with your HU. When you crank up the bass, your HU amp cannot accomodate this at higher volume levels, and the output starts to clip. Prolonged clipping can blow burn out your speakers. Clipping causes distortion. |
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Silver Member Username: TipsPost Number: 131 Registered: Jan-05 | wait. so does that mean my speakers can get a hell of a lot louder if i just gave them an amp? and then they wont distort then at higher volumes? |
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Silver Member Username: TipsPost Number: 133 Registered: Jan-05 | sorry, i left out one question, what would be the minimun amount of wattage i would need to supply to each speaker so that the speaker wont ever have a risk of blowing out? would 65 watts rms be enough? |
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New member Username: Gpz1100Post Number: 3 Registered: Jul-05 | Assuming they're not yet blown, yes. Amped output can still distort, but it'll do so at much higher levels. Likely higher volumes than you listen to. Realize this too, you will not get pounding bass out of this speaker. You'll get some reasonable bass response, but it won't pound like a sub will. With this in mind, if your HU support HPF, I'd cross these at 100 Hz or so. You'll protect the speaker from low bass while passing midbass and above. |
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New member Username: Gpz1100Post Number: 5 Registered: Jul-05 | Those speakers are rated at 2-90 W RMS. I'd think 50-70 watts rms should be plenty. If you intend on adding more speakers to your car later, consider getting a 4 channel amp. Something like a 4 ch 75W rms amp should be plenty for driving 4 full range speakers (not subs). |
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Silver Member Username: Bnd_rulezPhoenix, AZ USA Post Number: 659 Registered: Mar-05 | Add an amp, and you'll be very pleased. 65 watts RMS would be excellent. |
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New member Username: FirlefanzPost Number: 10 Registered: Jul-05 | As said above an amp should be the solution. When it comes to clipping, the sound ist distorted the tweeters and subs are likely to be killed and even your Alpine has to work more than its degsigned for. It produces more heat. Generally the amp should have more power than the speakers and should be controlled through the adjustment of gain (sensitivity), but no more than 3/5-4/5. |
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Silver Member Username: TipsPost Number: 134 Registered: Jan-05 | woah, the amp should have more power? i found a amp for 100rmsx2 that i could afford, but i decided the 65 watts would be better for the speaker. if i get the 100rms amp, isnt it much easier for my speakers to blow out? |
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New member Username: Gpz1100Post Number: 8 Registered: Jul-05 | tips, It's all relative. Use common sense and you'll be ok. My speakers are rated max 75 w rms, I'm powering them with an amp rated to 125 w rms (actual certificate that came with the amp says 166w rms/ channel). Regardless, don't go above super loud volume levels and you'll be ok. If speakers are rated max 50 w rms and you use 25 w amp, you'll be in trouble, but if it's the other way around you'll be ok. |
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New member Username: Gpz1100Post Number: 9 Registered: Jul-05 | Hmm.. Seems I can't edit my posts on here. I want to reinforce what I said before about using HPF's. What ever amp you get, be sure it has some type of HPF/LPF built in with at least -12 dB/oct attenuation. You can then high pass your speakers at 100-150 Hz. This will ensure that no low frequencies are being sent to the speaker (which is not capable of reproducing this sound range anyways). You'll get cleaner sounding midbass/midrange, and you'll get longer life out of the speaker. |
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Silver Member Username: TipsPost Number: 135 Registered: Jan-05 | Hm... I get what you're saying... sort of. So then would this amp work? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem%26item%3D5791729509&category=18796 %26%26 I know it's not an amazing amp, im just want it to get the job done... |
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Bronze Member Username: Gpz1100Post Number: 12 Registered: Jul-05 | Some mid to high end headunits also provide LPF/HPF's. As for an amp that does it, I chose to use an alpine mrv-f545 for my install. It's a 4 ch x 125 W (into 4 ohm) rms amp. It has adjustable sensitivity (via buttons and lcd display), variable LPF/HPF for each 2 channel bank 30-400 Hz or 600 to 8KHz cross over points. For the front components I had the then HPF'd at 80 Hz, and for the sub, it's LPF'd also at 80 Hz. The way the system is setup, ch 1/2 are the front l/r, and channels 3/4 are bridged together and drive the sub. 125 X 2 for the fronts, 500 x1 for the sub. Works nicely. This amp also has dual fans and some other bells/whistles you may not need. Online, it's ~$360 shipped give or take. What price range you looking in? |
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Silver Member Username: TipsPost Number: 136 Registered: Jan-05 | yea... 360 is a lot. the thing is i still have to buy a pair of subs all the parts to install everything. there was no room in my budget for a front amp, but i never realized how dangerous it was to underpower. i cant spend more than 125ish on an amp for the front... thats why i was just gonna go with the profile AP600 amp. wouldn't the profile amp be able to filter out the lows? |