hey glass im sure this is possible.. say i had 2 yellow tops in the back hooked up in parrallel running my subs.. if i had a stretch of hvy wire comming from the alternator through the car with switch on it or would this cause problems?,could i have it so when i drain the batteries that i could turn the switch on and have the alternator charge the batteries? or that sound like a dumb idea.. prolly need a massive switch
use a battery isolator, bro. easiest way to do it. the isolator will recharge both the audio batteries and the starter battery when the car is running, but only the audio batteriers power the stereo and only the starter battery starts teh car, in effect isolating them from each other.
the switch would be a pain because of the amount of current it'd have to be able to handle. a bit dangerous too
but then the alternator would have to handle the load of the amp.. i was trying to get out of buying a bigger alternator.. i got a 130 amp now but im upgrading to 2 type X's so il be drawin around 200 amps
you can probably fine an isolator that allows you to switch off the alternator feed to recharge with a switch at the dash.. that sounds like something someone makes.
the problem you'll have is the batteries will discharge and voltage rails will sag.. without the alternator to keep the current and voltage stable, you're going to get clipping which can damage the speakers. The batteries on that isoltor will help keep the voltage stable even with the isolator functioning without a switch.. at least until the batteries get depleted and the alternator also can't keep up
if anything run the 130A for the car and the 200A for the audio system as a dedicated alternator then you'd have a full 200A for just the audio system, and no need to balance the voltages from two alternators together.
Just how are you going to install 2 alternators in your car? Do you have the space? Most cars nowdays have very little room to spare under the hood. This is why I like my old 86 Mustang. You can hide a dog under the hood. Plenty of space to upgrade/replace anything. Even the battery compartment is 2x larger than most cars. That's how cars should be made. Easy to maintain and upgrade, without scraping your knuckles.
Looks like ford has taken a turn for the worse since 1986. They have these insane plastic harnesses on the driver side door now so you can't rewire the door without drilling into stuff. And there's so little play in the wiring that you can't even access the wires coming into and out of the fusebox.
water
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so glass if i got a isolator and a yellow top my sterio would run off that alone?
can the same be done with batcap in the back somewere?
There's two lil notches in that "insane plastic harness" you can squeeze two sets of 16 gauge speaker wire through. What I did with my Explorer. Not fun, but it can be done w/o drilling holes.
Oh and water, with an isolator your stereo would only be running off the the yellowtop alone when the engine's off. With the engine cranked your alternator would still be powering your system.
You can run a couple speaker wires between that rubber boot and the plastic plug alongside the other wires going into the vehicle. Its kind of hard to explain but there's a lil zip tie like deal that keeps the boot on the plastic plug. You run the wires through the gap between the plug and the boot.
There's two notches on the front and the back of the receptacle for the plug where it goes in the door. There's a bolt on top of the assembly(10 mm I think) which you can loosen to unplug the thing. Once you do that you'll be able to see the two notches I'm talking about. Even though the wires come outside of the plug before going in the door you can't really see them as they immediately go through those two notches after the plug has been retightened.
They're pretty small so I doubt you could get anything much bigger than 16 gauge through them with crushing the insulation when you tighten the plug down again.