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noobsystem Unregistered guest | This is my first actual system and I want to make sure it's decent. HU: Pioneer DEH-P80MP or DEH-p7700MP AMP: Audiobahn A1504DP Front SPeakers: Polk MOMO MM6 component set 150 watt RMS Sub: Polk MOMO MM12 in the MOMO box Wire: Knukoncepts 4 channel 4 guage kit I haven't purchased these items yet because I wanted to make sure I got good stuff the first time around.Thanks for your time. |
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noobsystem Unregistered guest | I should clarify that the A1504DP amp is a 150X4 amp @ 4 ohms, but it can also do 450 @ 1 ohm which is why I chose that amp because it can run the speakers and the sub nicely, and it only has a 2 x 25 fuse rating. |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfWisteria, Lane USA Post Number: 8126 Registered: Dec-03 | it's a class T amplifier. that's about 80% efficient. The fuse rating tells me the most power that amplifier can produce is about 460 watts RMS total This is why I dislike audiobahn and their false advertising of poorly built, over-chromed crap. The rest of the system is great. that amp.. eh, I'd look elsewhere. You're not going to cheat the laws of physics and electricity. watts = amperes * volts. No way around that, and that's only with 100% efficienty which means no loss across the components from heat, resistance, etc. So, even with p=V*I you're still going to have to subtract for heat loss. end result, 600 watts *150*4) is what you'd get if the amp were "perfect" and there was no such thing as heat or loss, and you ran at 4 ohms. fact is if you want as much power as that amp claims, it's going to need current to produce it. that audiobahn amp, after having just looked it up, also uses a PWM power supply, which means it's regulated, and power will not vary with a change in voltage, which is good, but that also means it's less efficient in converting the 12VDC current into a high voltage AC signa;l to drive your speakers.. more power loss. screw audioblah and just find a better amp company, like Kicker, MTX, PPI, Orion, Directed, Viper, a/d/s, or anything decently made like that. |
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noobsystem Unregistered guest | Firstly, thanks for you reply and advice. The only amp I found that would compare would be a Kicker KX850.4 and that amp has 120 fuse rating. My next question would be are there any other amps that are similar? I would like only one amp, but I could use 2 if it's better. I listen to about 90% heavy metal, and 10% everything else, are those Polk speakers going to rock good? Once again, thanks for your help! |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfWisteria, Lane USA Post Number: 8144 Registered: Dec-03 | the Kicker KX600.4 should have plenty of power for ya. as I recall it's 75x4 @ 4 ohms. Maybe 50x4. Anyway I don't think you really need 150x4.. that's a tremendous amount of power for front speakers, and while a few component sets can use that much power, most only need about 50 watts per channel. should save ya money too |
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noobsystem Unregistered guest | Thanks again! |
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noobsystem Unregistered guest | I read that 4 channel amps aren't very condusive to subwoofers, and tend to cut out when played at loud volumes for short periods of time. With that in mind I have decided to get 2 amps, one for the sub and one for the component sets. I was looking at an old SOundstream Reference 500 for the sub and an MTX 502 Thunder for the highs. MTX 502: 90X2 @ 4 ohms SOundstream Reference 500: 500X1 @ 2 ohms Do I need a distribution block if I am running 2 amps? If so, what should I look at? Also, how do I add a deep cycle battery to the mix so I don't damage my electrical system? Thanks for your time and expertise! |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfWisteria, Lane USA Post Number: 8175 Registered: Dec-03 | "I read that 4 channel amps aren't very condusive to subwoofers, and tend to cut out when played at loud volumes for short periods of time." not really true. maybe ones from 15 years ago. If you have an ample current supply for the amp, it'd do just fine. most 4 channel amps are really a pair of stereo amps in one casing anyway, with separate discrete power supplies and everything. That's why many have separate power lines (2 instead of 1) but if you want 2 amps that's fine, too. that will help with current demands as the 2 channel can be class AB and sub amp class D "Do I need a distribution block if I am running 2 amps? If so, what should I look at?" yes www.knukonceptz.com "Also, how do I add a deep cycle battery to the mix so I don't damage my electrical system?" start by replacing your starter battery with an optima red or yellow top battery. ideally, if lights dim, you need a larger alternator. if you want a dedicated audio battery beyond the alternator, you'll also need a battery isolator and separate starter and audio batteries, as well as a place to mount the second battery in a battery box to prevent it from moving during turns etc. |