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New member Username: MvanepsPost Number: 1 Registered: Jul-05 | So, my wife takes my truck out while I am away. She thinks she is having a problem with the alarm. She opens up the hood and tries to disable it by taking out some fuses in the main fuse panel. She realizes the alarm wasn't the problem after all and returns everything to it's original place. Cut to next day. I get in my truck and notice that the dome lights don't turn on, the radio has no power, and the electric seat is dead too. After a lengthy interoggation of my wife, I check out the fuse panel under the hood and after a fairly thorough inspection with a test light I think everything is in the right place and the fuses are all good. I move to the fuse panel on the side of my dash board. The seat, radio, and dash lights fuses are all in good shape but have no power. I then notice something unsual about my alarm. When I activate my alarm with the remote I get on single chirp to let me know it is on. When I deactivate the alarm I usually get 2 quick chirps to let me know it is off. Now when I activate I get 1 chirp and after a 2 or 3 second pause I then get a second chirp. Unfortunately, the shop that installed it is about 1 hour away. I called them and they of course suggested that I bring it in and that my alarm might need to be 'reprogrammed'. Does anyone have any idea what my new second chirp means when I activate my alarm? What is this reprogramming that they are talking about? Is there a way to just reset the alarm myself? Thanks, Greenhorn |
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Unregistered guest | HAD TO CHANGE BATTERY. FROM THEN ON THE IT HAS NOT WORKED PLEASE HELP. CIRCIT CITY DOES NOT HAVE THESE ANY MORE AND THEY REFUSED TO HELP ME, I LIVE IN A HIGH CRIME AREA AND NEED INFO RIGHT AWAY PLEASE |
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New member Username: BiglanceinboisePost Number: 6 Registered: Sep-05 | I got the same problem. There are two wiring harnesses connected to the control box. one is white with 6 pins that controls the power door locks and lights. the other is a green 12 pin harness that controls the alarm siren and starter kill. Just disconnect the the 12 pin one and your truck should work as normal, but the alarm won't work. I'm trying to fix my alarm now that i got my truck working again. Let me know if you have any ideas on how to reset the Rattler. I know there's gotta be a trick to it. DEI wants me to buy a new one for $250, but I found installation guides at http://www.evosoft.dk/index.html I can probably reinstall the whole thing to fix it but I know its gotta be one little trick to fix it all. Let me know what you think. Thanks. |
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Unregistered guest | Same problem as the rest of you with Rattler Alarm. Didn't even know the car had an alarm '97 Tercel. Dealer didn't give me remote. Dead battery, replaced, couldn't shut off alarm unless removed negative cable. Guy who does alarms tried to fix it, then removed it so we could get the MFG & pin code. Car would not start or do anything. He replaced the unit & did something so it wouldn't make noise. Went back to dealer, they said they had a remote that they didn't know what car it went to. Was mine. Remote worked sometimes. Replaced battery in remote, and used remote, but didn't think the alarm was connected. Today, I opened the trunk with the key (which I have done many times since I got the remote) & alarm started screeching. Remote would not open car door or turn off alarm. Got in with key, started car, alarm would not go off. Somehow, just punching buttons on remote, got the damn thing to shut off. Figure I'll forget about the remote and just use the keys. If I lock door with key, or push down on button, it doesn't seem to affect the alarm at all. Perhaps remote is defective, but I can't find a place to get any info, or to buy a new remote. Not even sure which button or buttons to push to turn on alarm, turn it off, or even open the door. Nothing ever works the same twice. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks |
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Unregistered guest | i purcahsed a used toyota camry from a dealership and the key had a remote with it. anyhow, the remote didn't work and the salesman said that it probably needs a battery. I have the car a total of three days when the alternator goes out while i am driving home in the dark. I was fortunate that a well lit mini mart was near and was able to coast on in. I disconnected the battery post to clean them since the charge light never came on to indicate that the battery wasn't receiving a charge. whenever i placed the cables back on,the alarm went off and i could not get it to shut off with the remote. i had to be towed home with the car battery disconnected. I replaced the battey in the remote and it din't help either. i finally cut the wire to the alarm under the hood, but the lights still flash because the alarm is still going off. I have no manual in the car and i can't figure out how to deactivate the thing can anyone help with info? ron |
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Unregistered guest | Rattler Alarm!! I had a problem yesterday with my rear window not rolling up, which is just the case of a burnt out motor, but today a new problem. I just got a 2 12" Pioneer set that I was trying to hook up today. I removed the door sills, ran 5 gauge wire through the firewall, and had everything almost ready. But then I decided to finally remove the left over power cord that the previous owner had left in from a previous audio setup, which was poorly wired and he let the RCA run next to the power cord. Anyway he had an inline fuse on the cord, which came from the engine mounted fuse box, to the inline fuse, never running to the battery, but to the lenghty wire running the rest of the way to the old amp where it used to be. He had the ring connector under the left headlight connector that runs into the box and I had no problem removing it, but when I replace the headlight lead and start fastening it back down with the screw the alarm blares. I unhooked to OEM horn attached to the thing to shut it up, and tried to figure out what was causing it to go off. I was just removing and replacing the headlight connector basically. Now the alarm will not go off, the car will not start, the doors will not lock, and I have a two sub system in my trunk with a trash bag window. I found the modulator and the black spring button thing and pushed the button. Car still would not start. I held the button while starting. Nope. I just want the car to start and completely get rid of the system. Somehow everything in that car is rigged into everything else. It is wire nightmare. I cannot even power my windows without dimming my lights, dome light does not work with the doors, and the door lights occasionally work if ever. The system is a Rattler. For now I just want to disable it so I can drive my car without the flashing lights, sounds, and a regular start. I really want to just get rid of the thing. I have looked and do not know where to start to begin even taking it off, and there is no manual for the alarm or even the car. By the way the car is a '93 Honda Accord. My first car so I cannot get rid of it, but I do want all the kinks worked out of it. I saw a bunch of wires comming off the steering column, only one of them actually was separated from them ran relay into the box. Could I bypass ignition kill by reconnecting that wire and disconnecting it from the box? Please help. |
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Unregistered guest | Rattler Alarm!! I had a problem yesterday with my rear window not rolling up, which is just the case of a burnt out motor, but today a new problem. I just got a 2 12" Pioneer set that I was trying to hook up today. I removed the door sills, ran 5 gauge wire through the firewall, and had everything almost ready. But then I decided to finally remove the left over power cord that the previous owner had left in from a previous audio setup, which was poorly wired and he let the RCA run next to the power cord. Anyway he had an inline fuse on the cord, which came from the engine mounted fuse box, to the inline fuse, never running to the battery, but to the lenghty wire running the rest of the way to the old amp where it used to be. He had the ring connector under the left headlight connector that runs into the box and I had no problem removing it, but when I replace the headlight lead and start fastening it back down with the screw the alarm blares. I unhooked to OEM horn attached to the thing to shut it up, and tried to figure out what was causing it to go off. I was just removing and replacing the headlight connector basically. Now the alarm will not go off, the car will not start, the doors will not lock, and I have a two sub system in my trunk with a trash bag window. I found the modulator and the black spring button thing and pushed the button. Car still would not start. I held the button while starting. Nope. I just want the car to start and completely get rid of the system. Somehow everything in that car is rigged into everything else. It is wire nightmare. I cannot even power my windows without dimming my lights, dome light does not work with the doors, and the door lights occasionally work if ever. The system is a Rattler. For now I just want to disable it so I can drive my car without the flashing lights, sounds, and a regular start. I really want to just get rid of the thing. I have looked and do not know where to start to begin even taking it off, and there is no manual for the alarm or even the car. By the way the car is a '93 Honda Accord. Picture Here: http://img131.imageshack.us/img131/5075/dsc003013tj.jpg My first car so I cannot get rid of it, but I do want all the kinks worked out of it. I saw a bunch of wires comming off the steering column, only one of them actually was separated from them ran relay into the box. Could I bypass ignition kill by reconnecting that wire and disconnecting it from the box? Please help. |
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Unregistered guest | I did not mean to post that twice. |
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Bronze Member Username: ShepyjayOnt Canada Post Number: 52 Registered: Feb-06 | if this wire is attached to the blk whit wire this is your starter wire connect them |