Buying subs, need advice

 

Peter D S
Unregistered guest
Hey...anyone... who can help.

I'll admit I don't know much about car audio, but I'm trying to learn. I love music! I haven't heard too many different types of subs either so I want some advice.

I want a new sub and amp, and its been sooooo hard for me to pick. Money is not an issue.

If you have any other suggestions let me know, but I am looking at JL W7's 12 or 13, Alpine Type X's 12's, and the MTX 9500 12's and the kicker solo X 10 or 12.

Now, I want good sound quality but I want it to pound too. I also want it to beat my friends who has 2 JL W7's...the basteeerrd.

I keep hearing about the JL W7's are they that good? What if I got the kicker, is it really all SPL. If its turned down is the quality still shiatttt? And what about Alpine!

From what I here the power needed for each sub is:

JL W7: RMS 750 Peak 1500
Alpine Type X: RMS 1500 Peak 3000
Kicker Solo X: RMS 2500 Peak 5000
Don't know about the MTX and am too lazy to check, but its close to JL W7's.

Anywayz, does this give me an idea on how they will pound?

AHHH! this is sooo confusing. Plz "help a brother out". thanks, to whoever helps

and btw, plz don't give your opinion on what other people tell you. If you have the subs, or even better have heard a couple of these subs, let me know. and if you know subs that beat them at a cheaper price, give me some tips. Thanks...again.
 

Silver Member
Username: Illuminator

Post Number: 776
Registered: Apr-05
"and btw, plz don't give your opinion on what other people tell you. If you have the subs, or even better have heard a couple of these subs, let me know..."

I haven't heard them all so that rules me out :-)
 

Silver Member
Username: Bnd_rulez

Phoenix, AZ USA

Post Number: 617
Registered: Mar-05
The IDMAX from Image Dynamics and the RE X.X.X. should not be ruled out.
 

Paul Stein
Unregistered guest
To tell you the truth, I have heard both the MTX 9500's and the JL W7's. Mind you that both were professional installs with plenty of power behind them. The MTX subs were in a sledgehammer enclosure and the JL subs were in a stealth box (I think that's what JL calls it. Correct me if I am wrong here.) and both did an excellent job of reproducing the most demanding bass.

However, there are a couple of things to keep in mind. First on the list is what kind of music you listen to. The MTX subs hit harder and louder than the JL's, but the JL's can play lower. The second thing that you want to think about is how much room you want to take up. A dual loaded sledgehammer enclosure (2 Thunder 9500's) takes up about the same amount of room as one JL W7 (assuming that you have the 13 inch version) in a stealth box.

Both setups were able to play loud enough that you couldn't sit in the vehicle with them playing. (I think that the MTX subs came out about 10 or 15 dB higher than the JL's) However, IMO, the MTX subs had a cleaner sound than the JL. Also, they took up half of the space.

As far as a cheaper price, all of the subs that you mentioned run around $1000 a piece, so be prepared for sticker shock.

I wish you luck and happy booming once you get your system up and running.

P.S. Don't forget the capacitors, they can make or break your system. Not to mention your alternator. Go with at least 1 farad per 1000 watts of amplifier. 2 farads is better if you can afford it.
 

Silver Member
Username: Scubasteve

Annapolis, MD

Post Number: 129
Registered: May-05
Peter:
If you want to beat a pair of JL W7s, you're gonna have to put in some real serious woofers. A pair of 15" Digital Designs (DD) or Adire Brahmas, or RE XXXs should safely do the trick. If money truly isn't an issue, get US Amps, or Orion amps to power them.

Paul:
"The MTX subs were in a sledgehammer enclosure and the JL subs were in a stealth box (I think that's what JL calls it. Correct me if I am wrong here.)"

You are comparing ported vs. sealed on 2 different subs. Not a fair comparrison. Ported will always be louder, not to mention that stealthboxes are formed around a car's interior, not around the recommended enclosure volume for the subs.

Mary:
...wait, there was no mary
 

Mary_
Unregistered guest
Oh bless my soul! It's Peter and Paul! What good souls they are!

"P.S. Don't forget the capacitors, they can make or break your system. Not to mention your alternator. Go with at least 1 farad per 1000 watts of amplifier. 2 farads is better if you can afford it."

Oh dear! Naugty Paul! That's all wrong! Caps do nothing but ruin your system! James would be ashamed of your soul!
 

New member
Username: Pgstein_84

Post Number: 1
Registered: Jul-05
Pardon my previous errors in naming the JL enclosure. The actual JL enclosure was a H.O. Wedge. (Which happens to be a ported enclosure.)

And to Mary_ please explain how cap can "ruin your system" The last time that I checked, trying to draw the power for a pair of large subs straight from an alternator not only taxed the alternator, but they tended to drop the voltage that the amps get as well. Which tends to lower the amount of power available to the subs. And when those subs try to hit a low and loud bass note, especially in a ported enlcosure, they require lots of power.

But then again, maybe I'm wrong. I doubt it, since I personally know a couple people that compete in SPL and sq competitions. Granted that caps can be a pain, but in the worst case scenario, all that they do is provide an extra power reserve for your amps.

If you really want to check, I was recommended "The Car Stereo Cookbook" by a custom install shop near where I live as well.
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