4 gauge wire -> 100 amp fuse -> 1.2 Farad Capacitor -> Power Distribution block -> two 8 gauge wires -a> (Kenwood 7202 -> Dual 12" in bandpass box, one input @4 ohms) -b> (Kenwood 9201D -> two 12" audiobahn in bandpass box, 4ohms wired parralel @2 ohms).
8 Gauge Grounds from amps going to distribution block, to 4 gauge ground leading to capacitor. Then capacitor grounded w/ 4 gauge.
Ground point is L-Shaped metal piece. Wire screws in, and the lip is screwed into my chasis.
Now, my problem. The Kenwood 9102D turns off after only 10-15 minutes. Is this amp just a bad amp? have already replaced it once. It feels slightly warm, but no where near as hot as the 7202 gets, without shutting off.
Also - can a small ground point cause excess heat? Or any other problems? I still need to sand the spot where the metal ground terminal is on my chasis, so right now it's just grounded through where it's actually screwed in.
If it is my ground causing problems, why is it just with that one amp?
Could it be that it needs more than an 8 gauge to run 850 RMS? But would that cause it to shut down, if so?
Is that A800T or A8000T? The 2nd one is a mono amp, and is only 2ohms stable. 8 gauge wire can not handle 850w of rms. For that you will need 4 gauge. Your cap is too far away from the amp. It's suppose to be no longer than 12" away from the amp.
It's an A8000T. And it's working pretty well. I did find one hugely severe problem.. my power wire was melted to my radiator, and grounding there.. Odd that I was still getting enough power? Would this cause an amp to overheat?
If it was your ground wire, then it's basically grounding itself to the chassis. If however it was your pos wire, then you have a problem. Normally when a wire melts, it's cause the product/item is drawing too much current for the wire to handle. In your cause it could be that or your wire got in contact with the hot radiator. Either way, you will need a new wiring kit. Get a 4gauge this time. If your gain/level is set properly on the amp and you are within the safe operating ohm load, then you just need a better cooling method or lower the volume.
The power wire had melted to the radiator. I was a bit careless my first time around, but have since remedied that problem. do you think the power wire grounding to the metal in the engine is what was causing my amp to overheat? I was still getting power to my amps no problem, however, the battery did drain *exceptionally* fast.
Isaac, I gave in, and spent the $10 a foot, for high quality 0 gauge wire, with a 150 amp circuit breaker, and a distribution block for 1/0 gauge to four 4 gauges. ( Because other than my Kenwood 7202, and Audiobahn A8000T, I'm also now hooking up a power acoustik gothic OV4-800, for my 4 Kicker KS60 6.5" speakers. )
Is a 150 amp circuit breaker going to be enough? Installing it all tomorrow morning.. My Audiobahn has a pair of 30 amp fuses, the kenwood has a 40 amp fuse, and the new 4way amp has a pair of 25 amp fuses..
Also, what would be best? To run the 0 gauge to my capacitor? Or run the 0 gauge to my distribution block, then run a 4 gauge to capacitor, then to the audiobahn? (I.E. should I use the capacitor for just one amp, or would it be better to have it wired to the 0 gauge, thus connected to all 3 amplifiers?)
do you think the power wire grounding to the metal in the engine is what was causing my amp to overheat? I was still getting power to my amps no problem, however, the battery did drain *exceptionally* fast.