|
Unregistered guest | I need to "clean up" the 12v on my car - I have found one or two solutions (for Marine use) but they are >US$200. Anyone seen such an animal? |
|
Bronze Member Username: TboneOK United States Post Number: 87 Registered: Feb-04 | Exactly what does the conditioner "Clean Up"? |
|
don Unregistered guest | Dirty DC. I recently had to replace my cars engine management processor (Ford EEC-IV) and have cause to believe it was killed by a power spike. The only thing I've changed in the last year is add a stereo with a cap - since then I've had my battery die and my computer go south. I want clean power to my new EEC. |
|
Don Unregistered guest | http://www.newmarpower.com/isp/dcconverterisolated.html |
|
Silver Member Username: TboneOK United States Post Number: 102 Registered: Feb-04 | Check it out, seems a waste to have to use such a product. I think that I would start by replaceing the factory chassis ground return cable with a larger gauge cable, and then check my grounds for stereo components. Something electrical is definitely wrong, also check the ground on the alternator. Hope you find what is causing the problem. |
|
Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 1472 Registered: Dec-03 | that capacitor is useless. what you really need is a high output alternator, and if you feel you need to stabilize the DC voltage, a new voltage regulator as well. You don't need line conditioners in a car like you do for VAC in the home. You're not getting power supplied from a circuit feeding hundreds or thousands of buildings, and subjected to line damage and such from weather. You're on a dedicated power supply for just the car (your alternator) and that alternator has to be able to keep up with the demands of the audio system. |
|
Someone has registered as Don Unregistered guest | I appreciate the comments. However - 1) the car has a 130 amp alternator 2) an alternator is an AC device - it is regulated to DC, and as such there is always the potentail for "dirty power". I will concede that it's fairly unlikely, but to say "never" is not accurate IMO. I've had my car on a 'scope as part of the diagnosis of my dead EEC, and I can assure you that it's not a squeeky clean 14.4 - it's got plenty of "events". Regulation is internal on current Fords so it would mean a new alternator (near $300 for a decent one) While I have not measured current at idle, my car spends very little time there and I know that I'm at full charge by 1800 RPMs. Max draw on my current amp is 90A, and I'm sure the idle current is well below that - I'm not really building an SPL car here. I _am_ going to alter my wiring a bit - my positive cable is 4ga and I've done nothing for the ground side. I will be taking both cables to 0ga shortly, and changing the alternator and ground cables on pretty much everything under the hood. I will likely ditch the cap as it seems that they're pretty much all hype. thanx guys Don |
|
Bronze Member Username: The_masterBellmawr, Nj Usa Post Number: 16 Registered: Mar-04 | sounds to me that possibly your alt is going--hear me out-- alts dont just die sometimes they will give a bad 12v signal(dirty) also the reg could interfere--i would replace alt and go to external reg-the heat damages reg and could be the only prob--also make sure power wires away from spark wires-thus might be prob for eec damage-high current spark interference will damage these-never caame accross this but logically i would do reg first--you can disconnect the internal and wire out to an external not to hard to do--- |