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advisory Unregistered guest | Right now, I have a Rockford Fosgate 500BD amp (RMS Power at 2 Ohms: 600 W x 1) with two 10" Alpine Type-R's (2 ohm DVC subs, 300w RMS, 1000w peak power). With that setup alone, turning the system up to the loudest I'll play it (note: not the loudest it will go), which is about 3/4 of the volume, the lights dim, volts go down, etc. Now, to solve that current problem, which would be a better solution: a .5 or 1 farad capacitor, or a new alternator? I can go either way. (But just wondering, what are prices on both?) In a couple months, I'm replacing my mids in my truck with 6.5" 3-Way Infinite Kappas and 4"x6" Infinite Kappas, along with a 480w 4 channel amp to push them. Now, my question with that setup (two amps, 6.5"s, 4x6"s, 10"s) is, can I use one capacitor for two amps, or do I need one capacitor for each amp? It'd be either one 1 farad capacitor, or two .5 farad capacitors If I upgraded my alternator, would there even be any need for a capacitor (or two)? One more off topic question: do crossovers or equalizers really make that much difference in sound quality? Are they worth investing any money into? Thanks! |
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Gold Member Username: JmloughreyFarmington, CT Post Number: 1131 Registered: Jul-04 | just upgrade the alternator...you wont need a capacitor...it'll balance out as well after the cost of a cap, distro blocks, wiring and such... |
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Gold Member Username: James1115Wilton, Ct Post Number: 2149 Registered: Dec-04 | OK 1st off most of the time when lights are dimming with that amount of power it is because of a weak ground or a battery or alternator that is on its way out the door. What kind of truck do you have? You can upgrade your alternator it is always a plus and yes if you upgrade your alt with that amount of power there should be no need for the use of a cap. As far as using two caps for two amps or that will work but you typically only need a cap for your sub amp because thats where the most power is being drained from. Typically its about 1 fared per 1000 watts. X-overs are a must if you want to keep your speakers for any long periods of time without cooking the voice coils. You need to x-over a sub at around 80htz and your mids at around 100 or 120htz. Yes EQ's work very well when tuned properly. I think that covers everything if not shoot back another post and I will try to further help you out. |
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advisory Unregistered guest | Thanks... I've got a 2000 Chevy 1500 Reg. Cab (4.3L v6)... not sure what size of alternator it has, but i'll look it up. I think im gonna for sure go with a new alternator, no capacitors, and an xover or two. and i thought mids (i'll have 6.5"s and 4x6"s) should be x-overd at around 2000 htz... will subs around 80... any recommendation on what size amp, as well as where to find some? |
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advisory Unregistered guest | Thanks... I've got a 2000 Chevy 1500 Reg. Cab (4.3L v6)... not sure what size of alternator it has, but i'll look it up. I think im gonna for sure go with a new alternator, no capacitors, and an xover or two. and i thought mids (i'll have 6.5"s and 4x6"s) should be x-overd at around 2000 htz... will subs around 80... any recommendation on what size alternator, as well as where to find some? |
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Gold Member Username: Jonathan_fGA USA Post Number: 3610 Registered: May-04 | "and i thought mids (i'll have 6.5"s and 4x6"s) should be x-overd at around 2000 htz... will subs around 80... " The low pass filter of a midrange will be 2,000hz-5,000hz or a little above. James was referring to the high pass filter used for the mid. Crossovers are essential to a system, if your speakers already have crossovers though, then you're ok unless you're not satisfied with their performance. Equalizers are essential for the purist, a car simply cannot provide a totally flat response, how extreme you want to go with it is the biggest question. As far as the alternator, it depends on how big the factory one is. Look on www.mralternator.com, it'll give you ideas and prices on upgrade alternators. |