i had my sub cranked today 12" type r reciecing 500 watts and it started making this horrible noise while the bass was hitting it sounded like the cone was rattling or vibrating against something? i thought it might be the sub vibrating against the box since i used weaker screws on 3 of the holes but would anything else cause this?>
its possible that maybe a wire on the inside of your box got caught in there, hopefully its somethin like that, it sucks blowing a sub i know how it feels even tho thats not what happened when mine blew.
i bought them from local a&b sound store gains were from factory and all my stuff is aline so im asuming it was fine i did put the gain up one step tho maybe thats what screwed it up ima take it out tonight and see whats wrong with it. no i didnt break the subs in why wait
i took it out and couldnt see anything visibly wrong with it everything was still attatched so i dunno put it in tomorrow i guess and see what happens maybe it was a wire also are subs suppose to have a horrible burning electronics smell when u take them out? lol
lol thats probally not a good sign, but if they still dont work, then buy new ones, but with your next subs break them in before you crank it, just to be safe
no dude it works it just makes a rattling sound when the base hits .. like imagine your sub playing normally then add a horrible sounding rattle as it hits
As I said before... You clipped your subs. It is never good to use more watts than recommended. Also try to get your gains set professionaly if possible. If not you can can adjust them by ear.
Just make sure you break in the new set. There's about a 4-8 month period where you shouldnt turn your subs up past about 3/4 volume...I wouldnt even go that far within the first 4 months...
I still recommend keeping close to the recommended rms. Type R's are very bad against clipping. But thats my opinion! =) Im a Type R owner so I know what they are capable of!
Most problems of sub failure isn't because the sub isn't "broken in", it's because of install issues. If you have the gain set too high, a loose wire somewhere, the box isn't right, or the sub has a manufacturing defect, you'll screw up the sub regardless in the long run. The reason that they recommend going easy for a little while is so you can hear any issues and fix them before you damage the sub. There is no magic to breaking in a sub besides loosening the suspension and burning off a little excess glue, etc. Definately nothing that requires months of time to accomplish. All you're really doing is loosening up the surrounds and spider. Yes, IMO you should go easy for a little while and not go all out on a sub on it's first day in service, but you won't really screw a sub up by pushing it to full excursion UNLESS you clip the amp(and assuming it's a decent sub). Look at magazine reviews and articles on subs, the first thing they do is loosen the suspension by pushing the sub to high excursion free-air. Just like Stan said, you drove the amp into clipping. 500W RMS really isn't going to do a Type R any extra benefit, it can reach it's full potential with the 300W.
By the way, another *important* reason that manufacturers recommend a break in period is that typically, speakers and subs don't sound there best when they are new, due to tight suspension and such. So, giving a designated break in time gives hope, and if they didn't do that, a lot of people would say "this sub sucks" and take it back.
dear jonathan, I blew 2 of my subs too. Is that the term used when subs stop workin?
cuz the audio shop used a tester that looked like a screw driver with a wire on it(and a red light that flashed when it detects electricity) to test my amp, and my amp install actually "blew" their tester as well. Do you know what happened here?
My question is whether there's a way to test my amp installation myself without hooking up and risking blowing my new subs again?
Dear Jonathan, Thanx for your input. I think I just "blew" my multimeter(the pin when back and forth rapidly and stopped at zero). Was is because "Never use the ohm setting on a multimeter on live voltage. You will damage the meter?" Or was it my amp set up? Will a mutimeter with "overload protection" prevent this from happening?
Your help is very much appreciated.
PS. What would happen if I ran a 2000+ RMS amp to a IDMAX 12 sealed?
What was the scale set at on the meter? You shouldn't use the resistance setting with live voltage, you're right about that. Disconnect the speakers and test the voltage output of the amplifier that way. Always start at the highest scale on an analog voltmeter (DMMs don't have a scale), then work your way down if the scale isn't right. The ID Max doesn't need that much power and you risk damage to the coil if you put that power on it for an extended period of time. With an SPL burp would be different.
ha i brought my sub back and they cancelled the old type r im waiting for and they put in an order for the new type R's .. guess thats one thing better about buying retail u pay more but u get good service