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New member Username: PhoenixrageBrampton, Ontario Canada Post Number: 1 Registered: Jan-05 | I have the kenwood KDC-X859 with the music keg 710... just last night the head unit just went dead, I pressed the reset button on the face but nothing happens. The face still moves and keeps itself in the down position (for me to remove the face) but I remove it, and put it back, nothing happens, and about a minute later, the face goes back to the down position. Any ideas of how i can fix this? This happened once before and i fixed it with the use of the reset button, but this time its not working. I contacted a kenwood repair technician and he said it could be the output circuit thats shot on it. Is it worth fixing? or should i just pick up a new deck? TIA |
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Unregistered guest | A repair guy i know said that once that happens there's no way to get it back. I don't know for sure but mine hasn't done that. Would you sell the deck? My faceplate has some broken buttons, maybe yours would work on mine. let me know, my email is sn69gles@yahoo.com |
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Unregistered guest | Kenwood is forever having problems with the flexible cable that connects the face to the circuit board. The cable is available from any authorized Kenwood parts dealer, but installing it is not a DIY project. I fix these decks all the time, and 99% of the time, when they start acting wierd or won't power up, it's that cable. Any competent repair person should be able to perform that repair in about an hour. |
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New member Username: NnivesPost Number: 4 Registered: Jan-05 | Hey Edward, I am sorry this has nothing to do with what you posted, but I have a Kenwood KDC-X979 and I am having trouble getting it out of demo mode. How did you handle yours? I can't locate it in the manual. If you could help me out I would appreciate it. |
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grandmastapoop Unregistered guest | To get it out of Demo Mode, the manual on my KDC MPV8025 says to hold down the #5 button and press the reset button. But I can't figure out where the hell the reset button is. Anyone help? |
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Unregistered guest | Hey, how ya guys doing? I have a Kenwood kdc v7017 I believe thats the model anyway, My HU does the exact same thing, I've done everything, even took the fexible wire thing out and tried to stick it back it, tight as could be. Nothing. I didn't really think it was that cord but not that dude said they have problems with it i might just check into it. I'll let you know |
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agranado Unregistered guest | The reset button is that little tiny one in the same row as the AM/FM and <<>> but to the left. you can hold it down with a pencil. |
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SLowchild yo Unregistered guest | Hey guys, good news, I ordered the parts and the total was 27 somthing with shipping, I took the part out and tested it with ohm tester, 4 out of 13 straids were bad. Good call cmrvi1. Now I just gotta worry about the install :-p seems simple but fragile. |
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Unregistered guest | I'm experiencing the same problem on my KDC-V7017. I tested the continuity of the flexible wire thing, and the two far right(looking down on the faceplate holder) connections don't have continuity. A month or so ago, the screen went blank and the LEDs wouldn't light up, but it was still working, now it'll turn on for about 30sec, then just stay at the position where you pull out the faceplate. I was wondering where I could get the new cable and how to get it out from under the thin plastic cover on the faceplate holder. Thanks! |
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AndyMac Unregistered guest | anyone? |
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New member Username: Chris_fitPost Number: 2 Registered: Apr-05 | I'm having same problem with my x859.. this is my second kenwood and I have had numberous problems. I'm thinking of picking up a new Pioneer today. What is the part number for the kenwood cable and where can I buy it? It was cool while it worked, very unreliable though. |
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Unregistered guest | J84-0121-12 for my 7017 atleast.. http://www.kenwoodparts.com/parts/find.php |
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Unregistered guest | hello..... the problem is that the "flat"(??)cable betwen the stereo and the front is broken in one or more conductor is broken, i fix it with one single 0,75 cable....... in my stereo it was the conductor to the right(while standing in front of it) take a beeper(don't know the words in english, when a cable is OK the instrument beeps!! *s*) take a look at that...... |
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Arturo G. Unregistered guest | Hello... I'm from Mexico, and have the same problem with my KDC-X859, won't work anymore, it only stays in the down position, and after a while it returns at the normal position, but it don't work. Here at Mexico is hard to find the part (the cable). Do you think in any other way to fix it? Any help would be appreciated. |
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AndyMac Unregistered guest | I think the cable is the only way to fix it. Fixed mine, and works like a chram now. |
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DWest Unregistered guest | I have the same exact problem with my V7017 as AndyMac. Just last week it died on me. I'm going to order the flexible cable and see if that works. The website posted recommends buying a "rectangular receptacle" too. What is that and is it necessary? Also, AndyMac - did you fix the cable yourself? This seems to be common, has anyone heard of an instructional do-it-yourself website? If anyone has any suggestions I'd appreciate it. |
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Unregistered guest | Thanks AndyMac, by the way, how did you do to pass the cable from under the thin plastic cover on the faceplate holder? To Chris_Fit: For the kdcx 859, it's the same part that AndyMac comments (J084-0121-12), and for the receptacle, the part is E58-0903-05, but I don't know if this last part is necessary. |
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AndyMac Unregistered guest | check this thread out..it wasn't hard at all. https://www.ecoustics.com/electronics/forum/car-audio/130573.html |
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SilverZero Unregistered guest | My KDCX717 is doing the same thing, and I'm getting a replacement cable (probably from Ebay, because they have some with the receptacle pre-installed). The receptacle would require some steady-hand soldering if I got the two parts separate, and for a couple bucks extra, I'd just as soon get it all as one. Arturo G. - If you are still wondering about getting the cable out of the faceplate, I had to just pry the thin plastic face off. It's just glued on, and I can find some good adhesive when I'm reassembling. I don't think there's really another way to get the cable out. |
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AndyMac Unregistered guest | the soldering wasn't hard at all..all I did was heat the solder and let it adhere to tip of the iron and just touch it to the little pins..worked fine. |