Archive through September 19, 2004
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Bronze Member Username: FryguyBarrington Passage, Nova Scotia Canada Post Number: 22 Registered: Jun-04 | What is the amperage rating of the AC to DC converter? Also what is the rating of your AMP 500 watt, 1000 watt ? It may be that your converter was improperly sized for your AMP. |
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New member Username: DudemangPost Number: 2 Registered: Aug-04 | hi, i have a 600watt bazooka amp, and i have a 12vdc adapter laying aroudn the house. i was wondering if it would be enough to power the amp alone. Input: AC 120v 60hz 6w Output: DC 12v 200mA. |
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Bronze Member Username: FryguyBarrington Passage, Nova Scotia Canada Post Number: 23 Registered: Jun-04 | In short anthony, NO! Yor little wall converter is only 6 watts! It provides a whole 200 mili-amp at 12 volt you need on the order of 40 AMPS! Your going to need a ~40 AMP 12 volt AC to DC converter. Look at the document i posted above for how to make a cheep one from a couple computer power supplies. |
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Bronze Member Username: FryguyBarrington Passage, Nova Scotia Canada Post Number: 24 Registered: Jun-04 | For the rest of you wanting to know how to calculate power, it's the voltage multiplied by the Current. So 12 volts multiplied by 40 = 480 watts. This is more then enough for your 600 watt amp. Now you're thinking how the hell does he get 480 watts as more then enough for a 600 watt amp? Easy a 600 watt amp isn't a true 600 watts.The 600 watts it it's a peak power rating, to get the true RMS "root-mean-square" value its approximately half that value. Also look out for PMPO ratings, like they do with computer speakers. "a 500 watt 6 inch subwoofer for your computer don't exist!, It's a PMPO rating, it may be at best 40 watts RMS." More information visit my posting at |
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Unregistered guest | Hello I have a yamaha 5740 av reciever that outputs 85 watts per a channel. This is great for my rear surround speakers, but I have two stand speakers that each have 2, 8" subwoofers, a 5-1/4" midrange drivers and a 1" tweeter. They have a max capacity of up to 400 watts. I have a 2 channel fosgate amplifier that outputs 200 watts per channel, and I was thinking about buying a power converter and following the instructions from this thread. Would there be any complications taking pre amplified sound from my reciever, and running it through my fosgate then to speakers. If possible give any advice or opinions on this matter. If possible could you email me? Thanks, Tom Minton slochillin@mailcity.com |
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Bronze Member Username: FryguyBarrington Passage, Nova Scotia Canada Post Number: 25 Registered: Jun-04 | I wouldnt waste your time the fosgate amp will only give you another 15 watts at best. The car amp only does that power rating at 4 ohm load house speakers are generaly 8 ohm. Plus watch out for MAX capacity ratings and amp wattage MAX ratings are for very short periods before it dies, look for the DC equilivent rating "watts RMS". Also Amps have a peak output rating that they use like 200 watts so the RMS value is aprox half that. E-mail you, lol thats why the forum has the e-mail area on the "Add your message here" so the forum e-mails you when there is a new posting. |
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Bronze Member Username: FryguyBarrington Passage, Nova Scotia Canada Post Number: 26 Registered: Jun-04 | For adding the speakers in that way there is no problem most amps has speaker level inputs. The only thing to look out for is that the amps speaker level inputs can handle the high output from the other stereo. Though thats not much of a problem, you can add aditional resistors to drop the output from the stereo to the required level that the car amps speaker level input needs. If your not sure if it can handle it just turn the gain of the amp the whole way down and slowly turn the stereo amp up and if the rear speakers on the car amp get real loud and start to clip then you know its still to sensitive and will need to add resistors in series to the amp input. |
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Unregistered guest | yes i have 5.1 surrond, i also have surrond sound speakers and a 10 inch sub, so if i use the green and black plugs and make them red and white, it will work? |
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Unregistered guest | and do i use green and black or just one, if so which one(s) and the colous are (in order from left to right)black,green,pink,blue,yellow, and there is another plug, the same size as the rca plug, and its yellow its called S/PDIF OUT any ifomation on what thats for would be great. thx |
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Bronze Member Username: FryguyBarrington Passage, Nova Scotia Canada Post Number: 27 Registered: Jun-04 | The green is the front left/right, black is rear left/right, yellow (or orange on some) is the center/sub , pink is mic , blue is linein. Just use a standard (1/8" stereo headphone to 2 RCA style plugs)patch cable to your amp you may have to use a RCA spliter to feed both channels of your stereo car amp, if your bridging it mono. |
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Unregistered guest | so i got a second house amp, should i hook up the surround to one, and use the green and black to red and white for that, then take the yellow(orange) and hook that to anouther amp on the red or white(left or right) whichever my sub is hooked up to, is that right? |
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anonamus Unregistered guest | You guys ever notice "Radio Shack" seems to have everything lol |
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Bronze Member Username: FryguyBarrington Passage, Nova Scotia Canada Post Number: 28 Registered: Jun-04 | yes that all you need to do. On the yellow plug i'm not sure what one is for the center or sub but there is only two choices the left (white) or right (red) plug may be the sub output. I'm sure you can figure that out. |
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Bronze Member Username: FryguyBarrington Passage, Nova Scotia Canada Post Number: 29 Registered: Jun-04 | Radio shack have everything ? Your out of your (explitive deleted)MIND! |
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Unregistered guest | man jonathan fry you seem to be helpful around this site so i say my thanks to you...thanks! |
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Bronze Member Username: FryguyBarrington Passage, Nova Scotia Canada Post Number: 30 Registered: Jun-04 | Thank you. "Its from my experience with having no money and having to make apples work with oranges", lol. |
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Unregistered guest | Id just like to say thanks again, the stereo works great, amd i got a toggle switched hooked up so i can run one or the other or both, thanks jonathan your a real help. oh and all together im running 600watts est. i got a 10 inch pg tantruim series compition sub and two stand speakers with 12 inch subs 5 1/2 inch mids and 3 inch teeters tops out at 150 watts a piece and im running almost exactly 150 watts through em, and i picked a third amp 120watts and thatll power my surround speakers, im putting in 7.1 surround, so after three amps all hooked to my comp and soon my big screen will be to ill be ready for a bitchan party in my loft! thanks Jonathan! |
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Unregistered guest | hey people i was wondering how to hook up and car amp to a 5 disc cd changer. the car amp is a 1200watt audio/vox running two 12" rockford punch subs i have been waiting to hook it up because im 16 and i lost my licence....LOL would i have to hook the car amp to the house amp somehow???? HELP ME PLEASE |
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Kingston Customs Unregistered guest | well ya youll have to get a house amp, cause you need to run your cd player off the house amp and the speakers from the car amp which is connected to the house amp, but youll need to talk to a smarter person about that, thats all i can tell you without steering you in the rong direction, consider looking at the top of the page and slowly scrolling to the bottom there is alot of valuable stuff in here alot.... |
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Bronze Member Username: FryguyBarrington Passage, Nova Scotia Canada Post Number: 40 Registered: Jun-04 | You can use the amp right off the cd changer but you will need to make a volume control with a audio taper dual ganged potentiometer wired up to control the volume($6) or a cheep 4 chan mixer pannel like one from radio shack then you can have multiple audio sourses and be able to DJ. |
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MITCHmother f*cking G Unregistered guest | where would i get"audio taper dual ganged potentiometer??"radio shack? oh and another thing i hooked up my amp like this-ran a wire from rem. to the 12+ then hooked that up to the positive side of the battery then the ground on the negative and the protection light does not come on but the power one does so what the hell???. could i make a audio taper dual ganged potentiometer somehow? HELPHELPHELPHELPHELPHELPHELPHELPHELPHELPHELPHELP |
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MITCHmother f*cking G Unregistered guest | where would i get"audio taper dual ganged potentiometer??"radio shack? oh and another thing i hooked up my amp like this-ran a wire from rem. to the 12+ then hooked that up to the positive side of the battery then the ground on the negative and the protection light does not come on but the power one does so what the hell???. could i make a audio taper dual ganged potentiometer somehow? HELPHELPHELPHELPHELPHELPHELPHELPHELPHELPHELPHELP |
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MITCHmother f*cking G Unregistered guest | hey i could not find one of those audio taper things on the radioshack website but someone should please look that sh!t up cause im confused but would this work? MINI VOLUME CONTROL Mini volume control. 3A SPST/shaft 6.35mm (1/4") fits 7.8mm (5/16") hole. just strip the rca cables then hook them up to the volume control? |
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Bronze Member Username: FryguyBarrington Passage, Nova Scotia Canada Post Number: 68 Registered: Jun-04 | yes radio shack (http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5 F011%5F002%5F011%5F000&product%5Fid=271%2D215) it even has a built-in switch to turn the amp on and off with on knob! Just conect the audio to the outside terminals and the output is the center and the common. BTW the REM terminal is what turns the amp on. |
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DDW Unregistered guest | Jonathan (or any other helpful person), I stumbled across this post trying to find "How To" information regarding using a powered Infinity car subwoofer with my home receiver. I currently have an Infinity BassLink Subwoofer from my wife's old car. (New car has DAMN Bose system). I am in the process of installing some outdoor speakers for my patio. All reasonably priced outdoor speakers are fairly small and are incapable of much bass. Also, (if I understand and hear correctly) adding a separate bass seems to help the smaller speakers produce better quality sound. I have ordered a pair of Dual outdoor speakers. See: http://www.circuitcity.com/detail.jsp?c=1&b=g&u=c&catoid=-8023&qp=0&oid=92277&m= 0 . For $79 I have a 100watt amp receiver and I currently already have two sets of speakers hooked up to it (inside). I will apparently need a speaker switch to run a 3rd pair of speakers for outside (switches are surprisingly expensive). Since, I have the BassLink, I would like to utilize the BassLink to add bass to my outdoor speakers. The BassLink is designed for the trunk of a car, so I assume it should be easily suitable to handle the heat and humidity of my covered patio. It would not be exposed to any direct sun or rain, but it would be subject to heat and humidity same as most trunks (Houston, TX). Because of these qualities (and the fact that I already own it), it seems it would be better to use than most other powered subwoofers that I have seen. Most "indoor" subwoofers use MDF enclosures. MDF would not last long in Houston humidity. As I mentioned, the BassLink is powered and has the following specs: Amplifier Power: 200 Wrms Fuse: 20A Max. Current Draw: 12A Idle Current Draw: <800mA Input Sensitivity: 50mV to 4V, Line Level Input- 1V to 16V Universal Interface Further BassLink Info: http://manuals.harman.com/INF/CAR/Owner%27s%20Manual/BASSLINK%20om.pdf I am not an electrician or an electrical engineer. The extent of my electrical knowledge is just wiring various, plugs, outlets, switches, etc. around my house. No real "electronics" knowledge. I am just learning what "Some" of this all means today by reading the above thread and some other research. So, I apologize in advance if I ask a dumb question(s). I assumed my biggest problem was converting AC to DC. I did not know what was involved. Just starting to get an idea. I was originally assuming that I would need a converter that put out about 12 -- 14 amps. I assumed at 12V since most other plugs I have indoors are at 12V. ***Further, the installation instructions for the BassLink mention 12V more than once. I checked Radio Shack. They only had a 10 amp and a 25-amp converter listed at their site. I "assumed" the 10 amps was not enough(?). And I did not know if the 25 amps were too much. Further, I noticed they were both 13.8V. AND I noticed they were $79 & $99. I did not expect to pay this much for a "power supply" for a subwoofer. The power supply costs as much or more than the speakers (free shipping and tax free). And if I paid that much, I could potentially purchase other types of powered subwoofers (???). I did more searching on ebay and saw many converters by Pyramid. I noticed many of the converters had outputs @ 13.8V, 12V-15V or 6V-15V (none at just 12V). · Does it matter if output is 12V, 13.8V, 12V-15V or 6V-15V? · If output needs to be 12V, what are my options? · How many amps should I need to power a 200 Wrms subwoofer? · Is it better to have more amps? If so, why? (Some of the listings on ebay were up to 32 amps -- some "used" where reasonably cheap.) · What might be too many amps? Why? · Is there any concerns with a used DC converter? What should I look for? I also noticed that many of the converters list input at 115V AC. · Why 115V AC instead of 120V AC? Aren't most home outlets 120V AC? I noticed in the thread that someone mentioned the Radio Shack 25 amp power Supply is "switching" and may cause noise. I would not be interested in "Noise". Further, I saw someone mention "Fire-Hazard". I would "Definitely" not want that. *I am looking to mount the subwoofer near the ceiling in my patio to keep it out of the weather. So, I would mount all of the power source equipment in my attic above my patio and house! I don't want a fire hazard. · Is it "Safe" to convert something like this? I noticed that the installation instructions for the BassLink require installing a fuse at least 18 inches from the battery. See BassLink "link" above. · Do I need a fuse or something similar if hooking it up to a DC power converter? · If the DC converter has a fuse is that sufficient? If so, does it have to have an 18-inch or less cord to the BassLink? I saw the threads about using ATX power supplies. Apparently these are cheap. But, assuming I could possibly purchase a Pyramid or similar power supply on ebay (used) for $30 - $50 shipped: · What is better between "building" a power supply with ATX boxes and switches and just purchasing a Pyramid or similar type power supply? · Why is one better than the other? Pros & Cons? · What would be my total list of parts required to get the subwoofer to work with my receiver and outdoor speakers (outside of: receiver, speakers, subwoofer and speaker wire)? · What would be a reasonable estimated cost (if possible)? Considering I have seen some decent powered subwoofers (Cons: Not great for outdoors since MDF) on ebay for $70 to $100: · Is this a worthwhile project? Or would it be better to just continue looking for a powered indoor subwoofer or similar and try to weatherproof it somehow? · Do you have any other suggestions? Sorry for the long Post and so many questions. Any information and/or advice would be appreciated. |
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DDW Unregistered guest | I did some searching on ebay to try and figure out what would be involved with using an ATX power supply. There are many to choose from for Cheap (under $20 or so). If I were trying to just use "one" power supply (not connect many), what specs should I look for to accomodate the above scenario with the Infinity BassLink Subwoofer? Amps? Volts? Watts? connectors? Brand? etc. What makes something like an ATX power supply better or as good as a power supply from Astron or Pyramid or similar? (*I know nothing about any of the above!) Thanks. |
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Bronze Member Username: FryguyBarrington Passage, Nova Scotia Canada Post Number: 69 Registered: Jun-04 | a single ATX unit with 20 amp 12V output will do. The reason for the strange voltage of 115 volts and not 120 volts, is due to it being peak AC not True RMS voltage reading thats slightly less. Also a 12 volt power supply like an ATX computer power supply isn't actualy 12 volts but its about 13.5 to 13.8, that what technicians (like me) aim for when calabrating them. Using on a coverd deck you would be fine. Just keep the power leads from the power suply short as possible and mabe mount it to the amp/sub box it self. A fuse wouldn't be necessary as the output from the power supply will be close to the amps rating. Also the power supply has a built-in fuse and over current protection on the output side so it wouldn't realy be necessary. The big thing with a ATX power supply is they are very cheep provide alot of clean power and are very light! Now as for weather proof the only big thing would be blowing snow, though other moisture in the air can be a small problem. This will only be a big problem if the subwoofer is a paper cone (they soak up any moisture and go very soft). The power supply can take up to 90-95% humitity (non-condisating) even then you can take clear acrylic and coat the circuit board to prevent moisture damage to the power supply to protect from condensation (I work with marine electronics, this is what i do to protect expensive gear from moisture damage) on the connectors just use silicone grease. So power supply and all will cost under $50 if you look around and do the build yourself. |
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Bronze Member Username: FryguyBarrington Passage, Nova Scotia Canada Post Number: 70 Registered: Jun-04 | To comment on a statment you said "I apologize in advance if I ask a dumb question(s)." The only dumb questions are ones that weren't asked, you can't learn if you don't ask questions. NEVER STOP ASKING QUESTIONS! My favorite quote: "If you don't learn something new every day, your not living!" FryGuy. |
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Unregistered guest | i am intrested to mmake remot control car can yu tell me how to make it |
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Bronze Member Username: FryguyBarrington Passage, Nova Scotia Canada Post Number: 71 Registered: Jun-04 | For a power supply example: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=63353 1&Sku=P456-4002 This is a $23 power supply that can push 25 amps at 12 volts. plenty for your needs. then wiring and a simple box from scraps of wood and paint etc will cost you very little. |
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Bronze Member Username: FryguyBarrington Passage, Nova Scotia Canada Post Number: 72 Registered: Jun-04 | I can but this thread is on how to use a car amp in the house, not on remote control cars. Start a new thread for that. |
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DDW Unregistered guest | Jonathan, Thanks for the info. I have just ordered the Power Supply you recommended from TigerDirect. It looked like a good deal compared to others I looked at. Most amps for the buck. I assume I should have it in a week or so. I could not find anywhere on Infinity's website what the cone material was. Circuit City listed the material as: "Polymer". So, I assume it should handle the weather. By the way ..... Canadian!  , here in Houston we see snow about once every two years or so. And even then only about once in every five years or so does the snow not melt as soon as it hits the ground. So, although we do see temps in the 20's 1-3 times per year and occasionally we see temps in the teens, we only "see" white on the ground about once every five years or so. Not even then enough to blow up under my patio. It is not uncommon to see temps in the 80's in December. Our concerns here are heat and humidity. We get lots of rain certain parts of the year along with high humidity most of the year. 85% - 100% is fairly common. Then 100+ degree temps with 30-60 day droughts sometimes through July and August. My attic can reach temperatures over 120+. · Would it be better to wire/rig this whole electrical part of the contraption under the patio ceiling where there is better air flow? Or would it be O.K. in the actual attic with higher temps? · What does "clean power" mean? I keep seeing that with these DC power supplies. I will use silicon grease on the connectors, but could you give more details on what you mean when you said: "take clear acrylic and coat the circuit board to prevent moisture damage to the power supply to protect from condensation"? Are you talking about some sort of acrylic spray coating or something? I looked over your word doc. For making ATX power supply. I can't say I honestly understood it all. I am not too electrically literate. But, I may understand more after I receive the power supply. So, I will wait till then and probably have to get back with a few (hopefully few & specific) questions. I appreciate your perspective on "questions". I agree. I just noticed a few people felt like they needed to leave comments indicating others were stupid on this thread. I am not "stupid". I just have not tinkered with certain aspects of electricity. But, I have done MANY home renovation projects. Same as MANY other people. I am sure I along with other people are knowledgeable about many things that people who have left derogatory comments on this thread know nothing about. That is how knowledge is. This shouldn't have to be stated. I have to honestly say I was (temporarily) thinking that all I needed was some electrical cord with one of those "black boxes" at the end. I just figured I had to find one with the correct amperage rating. I keep spare electrical parts (audio, video, computer, etc.) in appropriate boxes. When I looked, I noticed they were all way too low amperage. I still thought I just needed a larger one until I did some research. I still don't have it all figured out yet. But, "working" on it! |
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Unregistered guest | Hey, I have a pair of subs and amp that were in my car for a while, however now that im going away to college, and not bringing my car i'd like to bring the subs with me to hook up to my personal CD Player. So far i have just taken everything out of the car, but am not sure how hook it all up again in a room. I do have a good idea of where everything plugs in, but to give the amp power, do i need a 12v converter orsomething, or is it even possible to use my 500 watt amp plugged into the wall?? and for the ground, when i split the wire i just plug the power into the power and ground into the gnd to complete the circuit? Any help would be awsome. Thanks! email works too: champfolio@aol.com |
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Bronze Member Username: FryguyBarrington Passage, Nova Scotia Canada Post Number: 74 Registered: Jun-04 | Polymer cone is a type of plastic cone so your fine. For mounting, anywhere where there is open air is fine, lower temps will help with the life of the power supply though. Clear acrylic is just a type of "varnish paint" clear coat. The "clean power" means just that it is clean with very little noise or near perfect DC current with no ripple. Once you get the power supply the document should be self explanatory. |
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Bronze Member Username: FryguyBarrington Passage, Nova Scotia Canada Post Number: 75 Registered: Jun-04 | steve-o just see my document above on how to make a high current power supply from cheep computer power supplies and you'll be fine. I dont have a head unit in my truck i just use a portable cd/mp3 player into my 500 watt amp for my tunes. And i can move it to the house and power it with my power supply described in the document above. |
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DDW Unregistered guest | Jonathan, I went to my local computer/electronics store today. (Ironically??? "Fry's Electronics". They carried both traditional tabletop DC power supply converters and computer ATX power supplies. The tabletop DC converters are very heavy-duty boxes weighing about 20 lbs or so with large heavy-duty contact posts. The ATX power units were of course much smaller and lighter. I pretty much knew this. I could tell from the internet searches that this was the case. But, how is it that the heavy duty ones have big heavy duty wire contact posts and the ATX power supplies use 18-ga wire (some were even 20-ga)? The Installation manual for the Infinity BassLink says to use "at least 12AWG wire for the +BATT (+12Vdc) and GRN (ground) connections". · Why does the manual for the BassLink say to use at least 12AWG wire, but an ATX power supply uses only 18AWG or even 20AWG for up to 25amps+ @ 12V? · I am substituting the ATX power supply in place of a 12V car battery. But, with the ATX power supply I will only be able to connect with 18AWG wires instead of 12AWG. Should I be concerned with these conflicts? If so, how do I overcome this issue/conflict? · I noticed that there were other connectors with yellow wires outside of the "main" connector. Will I be doing anything with the other yellow wires (or connectors?)? (*All of the wires were bundled, so I couldn't tell if the originated from 1 yellow wire.) I printed out your instructions for converting an ATX power Supply before I went. As I mentioned, I don't yet understand it all. I saw the main power connector. 20 female pins in one connector with color codes as per your first page. · Not that it matters much to me (I'll just take your word for it), but why short out pins 14 & 15 (curiosity and hope for some / more understanding)? · What exactly do you mean by "short them out"? And how do you short them out? I assume all of the wires should be cut free at behind the connector (???). Do you just connect PS_ON with any black? (or black 15?)? · What do you mean when talking about pulling pin 14 low or high? · Could you explain the following: "Once the power supply voltages are stable, the power supply will signal that fact with the PWR_OK signal (+5 volts at a very low sinking current) (Note: you could use a MOSFET transistor to use the PWR_OK to turn on the attached circuit)." · What do you mean by "remove all the wires from the board"? What board? Cut them off or get them out of the way? · Is there anyway you can explain your directions in layman's terms? - I know you had to have taken some time do write up your instructions the first time, so I hate to ask. But, consider I don't need a repeat of your breakdown of the main power connector or the wire codes or how to connect multiple ATX supplies together. · The ATX supply that I ordered per your link has a fan speed controller, so do I need to mess with your "Fan Mod" or can that be skipped? · Do I need a "Bounceless Switch with TTL level output"? *** The Basslink has an "auto turn on" feature. If not, can I just tie the PS_ON (green) to the Ground leaving the power supply in an on state? Can I just leave it plugged in all the time this way? · If I should have a switch, can you provide a picture of a "Bounceless Switch with TTL level output"? I again appreciate your perspective on questions, but I feel like I am asking a lot. Still, your continued help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, |
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New member Username: Vivid_ultimatumPost Number: 3 Registered: Aug-04 | Hey. Can I hook up a car subwoofer, to the normal audio out of my home stereo? or do i need a dedicated amp to run the subwoofer? |
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Bronze Member Username: FryguyBarrington Passage, Nova Scotia Canada Post Number: 82 Registered: Jun-04 | Read the document. It does assume that you have some basic knowledge. If you read the document you would understand that all the same colour wires are hooked together. This adds up to be a single wire equilivent to a 4-6 gauge wire! Shorting pins 14 and 15 turns the PS_ON low to turn ther power supply on. Without doing this you only have the +5v_SB that gives "stand by" output and the power supply is basicly off. The remove from the board means just that remove the un-used wires from the power supplies circuit board, just cut them flush (2-3mm) to the board. If the power supply already has a fan speed controler bont bother, as my fan mod is only optional. the TTL switch as explained in the document (that you didn't reav very well) is only for turning the power supply on and off. jumping pins 14 and 15 keeps the power supply on all the time and inserting a switch there is not recomended as this MAY cause damage to the power supply or to your amp by the "bouncing of the switch". To explain "bouncing", every time a switch is moved it dont respond instantly it "bounces" when switched. EX turning off it actualy goes (currently on)-off-on-off it just had a breif bounce on again. This CAN cause damage to sensitive electronics (like computers)! Thats why they use a TTL based switch, as thy dont have any bounce. And as for a diagram of a ttl level switch thats in the document already! schematics anyway but thats the most important picture as the actual picture of the board WON'T tell you anything on how to make it! Just stick to the basic shorting of 14 and 15 any use the REM on the amp to turn on and off then unplug the Power supply when not being used for long periods of time. hope this answers all your qustions. |
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Bronze Member Username: FryguyBarrington Passage, Nova Scotia Canada Post Number: 83 Registered: Jun-04 | Brodie Duncanson, i got to know more then that to determine if you do or not. what size (watts) of amp do you have? Whats the rating of the speaker (watts, single or dual voice coil, one or two speakers, voice coil impedance, each) you have? Normal audio out, line out or speaker output? i'm assuming you mean the speaker out, because of wondering if you need another amp or not. Just a few things to think of when posting a question. also if the question isn't on topic start a new thread. |
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MITCHmother f*cking G Unregistered guest | how would i hook up a cardeck and amp and two rockfords in my house like where would a ground it? |
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New member Username: Vivid_ultimatumPost Number: 4 Registered: Aug-04 | Sorry. Its a 220W 4ohm subwoofer. dual voice coil. Here are the specs for my amp. Continuous RMS power output - 60+60 watts (6-ohms) Front Speaker accepts impedance of 6 to 16 ohms. I would like to use just the normal speaker output. |
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Bronze Member Username: FryguyBarrington Passage, Nova Scotia Canada Post Number: 92 Registered: Jun-04 | shoot, if it will only alow a load of down to 6 ohms then you cant unless you had a pair of them subs. if it couls handle a 4 ohm sub you could have just hooked each coil to a seperate left/right channel to get a mono sub to work on the amp. The amp would push it ok if it could do 4 ohm loading. |
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Andrew D Unregistered guest | hey jonathan, I have a 340watt Jensen car amp and a jensen 12in. sub. I want to connect this to my home stereo/reciever. I also have a 12v power converter that pushes 1000mA. Is there any way that I can connect them up together?If I can't use the power converter how would I connect them with a car battery? |
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Bronze Member Username: FryguyBarrington Passage, Nova Scotia Canada Post Number: 94 Registered: Jun-04 | Give up the car battery! That converter is usless its only 1 amp (1000 miliamp). Go buy a ATX ($20-30)power supply with the highest +12 volt rating you can find (local computer shop can help you) and then read my document on how to use it. then you just power the amp from the power supply like you would with a battery. Easier, safer, and not so heavy or expensive as a big lead acid battery. |
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anonymous001 Unregistered guest | Does anyone READ the other posts BEFORE posting a question?.....I'll answer that myself, I guess most people are to dam lazy to read some! |
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anonymous001 Unregistered guest | How old are you ppl asking the "how do i hook this up ?" and "can i use a car battery ?" must be 12-14 years old! or act like it. |
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Andrew D Unregistered guest | I actually got it to work woth a car battery! But the red light comes on and then the amplifier turns off a second or two later. Why is it doing that? I have checked and changed the sub connection, the sub is a 4 ohm i believe and it's bridged. Could it be that the car battery is almost dead? What is it? |
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anonymous001 Unregistered guest | Dude, your stupid. measure the battery voltage and check if you hooked it up wrong when you bridged it mono. Why use a battery in the house? Get a cheep computer power supply! |
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Andrew D Unregistered guest | Dude, I'm not stupid, I know I should measure the voltage, I just don't have anything to measure it with! I know how to bridge it mono! Why use a battery, maybe because I don't want to have to go and get a power supply!It's cheaper using my battery because it's already been used! We just simply changed the battery on the car! Plus half of all the computer power supplies don't have enough ampage to power the amplifier and a sub! I live in the Bahamas and things are really expensive over here, especially computer stuff. And if I go and buy it on the internet from the states, it will take about a month or more to get here and overall, with the cost of shipping, it will almost be just as expensive as if I bought it over here! And all the poeple that post in here that don't know much about this topic post anyway because they probably don't understand it as easy as they would if some explained their own situation and not someone elses! I really hate people like you! And if you wanted to know I'm 15! SO why don't you try and be a bit more helpful insteat of complaining about people posting similar things all the time! It's not your problem anyway! People can post as much as they like! |
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Bronze Member Username: FryguyBarrington Passage, Nova Scotia Canada Post Number: 95 Registered: Jun-04 | A stray strand of speaker wire could do it but i would say the battery you have is old, possibly shot. Measure the voltage with a volt meter if you have one. It would be in your best interest to use a switching power supply to power the amp with. A computer power supply is capable of doing a very good job of this and cheeply. www.Tigerdirect.ca (www.tigerdirect.com) offers a good 25 amp @ +12 power supply for under $50. If you read my guide above you'll see its not that hard to hook up if you skip the advanced turn-on circuit (TTL level bounceless switch). Just wire together like whats mentioned in the guide. Then you wont need a battery that you'll need to replace every year or two. A lead acid battery isn't meant to be discharged and re-charged often. Only a expensive deep cycle battery is designed for this type of duty without damage. |
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Bronze Member Username: FryguyBarrington Passage, Nova Scotia Canada Post Number: 96 Registered: Jun-04 | I just seen your post after i posted, if a computer power supply is that expensive there then try to get away with it for now. I'm just pointing out the benifits of not having a battery. Its possible to parallel the outputs from multiple power supplies to get higher output (shown in my document). a 300-400 watt amp CAN be powered with a single computer power supply (depending on its +12 output). Try to see if you can borow a volt meter to test your battery or mabe even a test light and see if it dims much when the amp is turned on. |
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Andrew D Unregistered guest | Thnx for your help Jonathan, I'll try and get the voltmeter and stuff. The cheapest power supply I've ever seen over here starts at like $60. And that is a reallly cheap one. Thnx again! P.S. I like doing what I just did sometimes. LOL! It gets them to be quiet most of the time. It's nothing personal. LOL! |
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Unregistered guest | Hey i got a pyramid 300watt amp, yes i know it aint all that great but for 40 bucks its a steal, anyways i got an older 308 watt JVC house amp, and was wonder how to hook it up, ive been lookin through all the info on this page but its to much to read it all, but the gist i got is i need to get a converter somin with 25, something so the amp will have decent power, and my left and right(red and white) go striat into my left and right on my car amp is that correct? please tell me what to get and what to do, that would be greatly Appreciated, thx |
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Bronze Member Username: FryguyBarrington Passage, Nova Scotia Canada Post Number: 97 Registered: Jun-04 | Ok you know how to power the amp. Just hook the speakers up. Then its a metter of getting the audio to the amp. Use the speaker level inputs so you can control both amps with the first amp's volume control. so all you need is the power supply and the document i posted above. |
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Unregistered guest | I want to know if there is any way to hook up a small amp to my to 12s in my room i have them hooked up to my room radio and i want to hook up an amp to them it is only a small ampm tho |
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Macken Unregistered guest | Hey Jonathan Fry, I used your doc. to help me with my computer power supply. i have cut out all of the wire u told me to cut. but i have like 3 yellows, a white, a grey, and like 15 blacks........wut do i do with all of the duplicate wires??? o yeah and i have a purple wire. i also tried ur fan mod but i cant get it to turn on....maybe its because i dont have it all set up yet or something...SRY im retearded and dont know much about electronics....ANY HELP WOULD BE AWESOME Thanks Again |
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Silver Member Username: FryguyBarrington Passage, Nova Scotia Canada Post Number: 134 Registered: Jun-04 | Macken, Thats no problem , trying is learning. If you look at the diagram and read, all the same colour wires go together to make the equilivent to a large wire. (If you want you could replace all the small wires with a large 6-8 gauge wire) near the bottom of the document it tells you how to turn the power supply on by connecting the PS_ON(Green) to the ground (Black). The grey wire PWR_OK just cut that off too. There should be more then 3 yellow wires on the power supply in all the plugs combined. The purple is the +5VSB just cut that off (If you dont plan on building the de-bounce circuit) justuse the simple method to turn the power supply ON (PS_ON to the Ground/black wire). Hope this helps you. I'll have to compile these questions and clearify my document. |
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Macken Unregistered guest | FRY GUY!!!!!!! thanks for the help dude yeah im just goin to try and use one computer power supplie unit so could that be why i only have 3 yellow wire? plus its an old power unit so maybe it might not work....anyways ur awesome and thanks for the info...if i got more questions ill post them on here and on ur site AND ONE MORE THING>>>>THE WHITE WIRE??? cut it? |
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DDW Unregistered guest | Jonathan, I finally received my power supply. 2nd actually. TigerDirect has great bang for the buck, but they ship without any packaging (actually in a zip-lock bag in a box). First one received damaged. Go-figure! Anyway, I am currently cutting up the new one. I have 6 yellows (5 @ 20 gauge & 1 @ 18 gauge). You mention above it is O.K. to tie them to a 6-8 gauge wire. Is 12gauge big enough for 25amps? Or do I need to go purchase 6 gauge? You mentioned before to cut all unused wires down flush or within 2-3mm of the board. I can't get that close to the base of some of the wires (mainly the reds. Do they have to be flush? Or, is about 15 --20mm good enough (as long as they don't touch)? I have 17 black wires -- 1 tied to the green. So, 16 available. Do I need to use all 16? Or can I just use 6 (7? 8?) to match the 6 yellows and cut the rest off? Ditto to the above question from Macken on the white wire? Your "Wire Color Code for ATX PS" does not mention white. My power supply does not have "Brown". So, I would assume these are the same and my white is "+3.3 volt sense". Is this correct? Can I cut it? Just curious -- I have 6 orange wires. I know I don't need them, but if they are only 3.3volts, why are 4 of them 20 gauge and 2 of them "18" gauge? If I am not doing the fan mod, since the TigerDirect power supply w 25amps has a fan speed switch, can I cut off All red wires? The fans appear to have their own wire to the board. The Infinity Installation manual says to "Connect a short GND wire from the BassLink to the nearest bare metal surface". Should I connect the black wires from the ATX power supply to the Basslink subwoofer? Or, should I ground the subwoofer some other way? If not back to the ATX power supply, let me know how I should ground it. I tested the power supply before I started cutting as per your instructions. The fans kicked on and were on for a couple of seconds until I unplugged. I have cut off the purple, the blue, the gray, all oranges, and all reds (except one -- just in case and until I confirm above). The ONE red is not connected to anything. The green is tied to a black. All yellows are tied together, but not connected to anything. All blacks are currently loose and not touching (I assume that shouldn't matter - for now?). The white is not cut nor connected to anything. I plugged the power supply back in to see if the fans were still working. (Curious if the one red would matter.) The fans kicked on for a fraction of a second then off. I checked everything and plugged in again. Same thing. Fans kicked on for a fraction of a second and then off. Your instructions say not to do this too often, so I don't want to mess with it too much. Why are the fans kicking off? Thanks! |
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Silver Member Username: FryguyBarrington Passage, Nova Scotia Canada Post Number: 136 Registered: Jun-04 | Macken, where your power supply only has 3 yellow replace them with a larger 8-10 gauge wire. The white is probably a subsitute for the brown 3.3v sence wire, just cut it off as flush as you can get it. |
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Unregistered guest | poo cheese |
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Silver Member Username: FryguyBarrington Passage, Nova Scotia Canada Post Number: 137 Registered: Jun-04 | DDW, that sucks that the first PS was damaged, that's not like tigerdirect. I would go way over sized to 6-8 gauge but a 8-10 gauge for the yellow and black wires is fine (even more if its a long wire run >8') With cutting them flush in the electronics business its generally under 3mm is called flush. But as long as the ends are cut clean (no stray strands) and don't touch anything your fine. The fan mod is optional its only for if your running the amp at low volume and you find the fan is too loud you can turn the fan speed down but remember if your running the amp near or at full volume to turn the fan on high (full speed) again. For the ground remember that ground is the black wire on the power supply so any grounding is with the black wire on the power supply. As for the fan I think that power supply has a thermally controlled fan. But the reason why it kicks in and out is you have no load on the power supply. If that was a old AT power supply doing what you did with no load would have instantly killed the power supply. The ATX thankfully have protection for zero load condition. This is why i only recommend using a newer ATX power supply :-D |
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DDW Unregistered guest | Jonathan, I went to a local car stereo shop and picked up some 8 gauge wire. I tied all 6 yellow wires to a short section of 8 gauge and connected the 8 gauge to my "battery in" terminal on the amp of the subwoofer. I used 8 black wires (15 seemed like over-kill and very hard to tie all together), tied them all to another short section of 8 gauge wire and connected it to the ground terminal on the amp of the subwoofer. The green is connected to one black. All other wires have been cut off per your instructions: all oranges, all reds, the white, the purple, the blue, and the gray. (Nothing else was cut.) I made sure none of the cut wires were touching anything. I followed your instructions VERY carefully. Re-read them MANY times. Inspected all connections, etc. multiple times. I hooked up everything else properly and turned it all on. Small speakers worked as normal, but the Subwoofer didn't do anything. There is a little red light on the subwoofer to indicate when on. It never came on. I noticed that the power supply did the same thing again. When I turned it on, the fan turned over a couple of notches (probably about a full rotation +/-) then stops. (Kind of like it gets a very small charge for a fraction of a second). You mentioned in your last post that the fan kicks off because there is no load. I am not sure I understand. In your instructions on how to use an ATX power supply..., you instructions are to test the power supply by shorting out pins 14 and 15. I did this before I started cutting up the power supply. When I shorted out pins 14 and 15 and turned on the power supply, the fan RAN UNTIL I turned it off. Shorting out pins 14 and 15 is the same as tying them together (as the currently are). There was no load when I first tested it. None of the connectors where connected to anything. Effectively, the only difference between my first test and my second test before hooking the power supply to my sub-woofer was the wires were shorter on the second test. I assume it should not matter about all of the wires being cut as far as the fan running because they were not connected to anything before. I had a friend check over everything also after it didn't work. Neither of us can figure out why it doesn't work or why the fan is not staying on as in the first test. In any event, it didn't work when hooked up to the sub-woofer either. Via process of elimination (based on my questionable knowledge), I am under the impression that my power supply broke or something. But, now it is all cut up and non-returnable. I do not know how to test the power supply and I don't have a clue as to what went wrong. There must be some charge because it keeps sending some sort of signal to the fan. But, something is not working correctly. Do you have any thoughts on what the problem could be? Or how to test the power supply at this point? The Basslink subwoofer has an auto on feature, but I hooked it up through the speaker level connections with the switch on "auto" (although I tried it both ways). The following instructions from the manual would indicate this to be correct: "The REM connection requires +5 to +12 Vdc signal for BassLink to turn on remotely. Most head units with preamp outputs provide this remote voltage signal." (*** I am not using a head unit or pre-amp output) "For speaker-level applications, a remote connection is not required, since BassLink's Auto Turn-On feature will sense voltage on the speaker wires to automatically turn on BassLink." (*** I am using speaker-level applications, so I assumed it should turn itself on when it received the signal from the reciever through the speaker wire.) Again, any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Douglas |
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Silver Member Username: FryguyNova Scotia Canada Post Number: 149 Registered: Jun-04 | Whats the amp size of the bassLink AMP? That problem your describing sounds very odd unless the AMP is 200 watts or more the single 25 amp +12volt supply will do it. The amp you have is new to you right? I dont think its the power supply at all. I would check the documentation with the BassLink and mabe just try the REM terminal (REM to the positive terminal) to turn the AMP on just to see if the AMP works at all. But with the fan not comming on that indicates that something is mabe wired wrong or there is a stray wire strand shorting the postive to the ground? Can you get the power supply to come on when not connected to the AMP? Just connect a household 100 watt light bulb to the 12 volt to give it a load, it will golw orange/red if the power supply works. Let me know of your results and i will assist you further is necessary. |
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DDW Unregistered guest | Jonathan, The Subwoofer has a 200 Watt amp. *According to Infinity: "A very efficient amp". Based on info I have read, 16 -- 17 amps or so should be plenty to run a 200-Watt amp. I assume this is correct. But in any event, the power supply I purchased per your recommendation from TigerDirect was 25 amps @ 12volts (13.8?). The amp for the Basslink subwoofer is internal (all packaged together in one housing). The amp/subwoofer is new. I think the problem is more likely to be with the power supply than with a new out of the box Infinity Subwoofer/amp combo. Especially, based on the conflicting test results. I am sorry I don't understand what you mean by trying the "REM terminal (REM to the positive terminal) to turn the AMP on just to see if the AMP works at all". Do you mean to hook up the power supply into the positive terminal then connect another wire from the positive terminal to the REM terminal? Is it O.K. to run all 25 amps to the REM terminal (If there are ANY amps?)? I don't think there is a current coming from the power supply, but I don't want to mess up my amp and subwoofer also. I have checked (about 5-6 times) to make sure NONE of the wires that I cut are touching ANYTHING especially any other loose wires. They are all separated. Although some of them were hard to get to with cutters, they are easy enough to see and make sure separated with a small screwdriver or similar. When not connected to the amp, I get the fan to do the half rotation then stop thing. I tried your suggestion with a light bulb. I used a wired simple fixture that I know works. The bulb does nothing. I have a hot current tester that I use for electrical around my house. It lights and beeps when switches, outlets, or wires are hot. When I use it on the power supply, the switch indicates hot on one side when off, and on both sides when on. I cannot get it to indicate anything else is hot. All yellows together should be plenty for this device to indicate hot if they actually had any power. The yellows do NOT register as hot. The tester I have probably does not register low currents. So, it might not be capable of indicating current to the other smaller wires (not sure?). The tester I have is a Greenlee GT-11 Voltage Detector (50-1000V AC CAT III / 50-600V AC CAT IV) See: http://www.greenlee.textron.com/archive/ma-4429.pdf . Let me know what you think or what I should try next. Do I need to purchase some other type of electrical tester? Voltmeter? Amp-meter? I have a Home Depot, Lowe's and a Radio Shack all within 2-4 miles of me. The following link goes to an ended ebay listing that shows a decent picture of the connections on the Infinity Basslink: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=3291&item=5714739307&rd=1 Again, I appreciate all of your help. Thanks, Douglas |
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Silver Member Username: FryguyNova Scotia Canada Post Number: 162 Registered: Jun-04 | Thats puzzling, i would get a volt meter(your tool to measure hot lines wont work it needs to be >50volts AC) to see whats going on. Some tempature controled fans dont spen when the power supply is cold then kicks in as it warms up. So without the fan running there is no indication that a switching power supply is running (unless its powering something of course) The green and black needs to be tied together for the power supply to come on at all. But i know you have done that. the power supply worked when you got it from tigerdirect so i'm not sure whats going on. You got the first picky ATX that i have ever heard about. |
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mitch mother f%ckin g Unregistered guest | hey jonny boy or any one, i got that audio taper potentiometer from radio shack, its got three prongs how and where do i hook up the rca cables i need help FAST PLEASE HELP HELP HELP HELP HELP |
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DDW Unregistered guest | Jonathan, One of my neighbors had a voltmeter, so I have spent some time over at his house and we were tinkering around with the power supply and voltmeter. I really don't know how to use a voltmeter. His looked complicated to me. Two probes with 6 different slots and a dial switch with about 15-20 settings and about 3-4 different readings on the dial for amps, ohms, etc. He didn't seem to know much about what he was doing either, but seemed to have "stumbled" upon something. One of the heat sinks (I think it is called a heat sink??? - one of two large finned aluminum fixtures by one of the fans) shocked him. I don't consider myself to smart in this area of electrics, but I am pretty sure the heat sink is not supposed to carry a charge. My guess is something is grounding out somewhere on the power supply. But, this doesn't make much sense to me unless the power supply was defective from the beginning. Actually, I am "now" under the strong impression that this power supply WAS probably defective before I opened it. This power supply was also slightly damaged. But, the damage seemed too minor to be concerned about for my applications and not worth the hassle of a second return. It was also VERY POORLY packaged. Even though I requested them to try to package better when I called to get return authorization for the first one, this one was still loose in a much bigger box and only packaged in a freakin zip-lock bag. No peanuts, paper or anything. This power supply is roughly 6"x6"x3" shipped loose in a box about 10"x12"x5". Ridiculous! I never took the circuit board apart or anything too drastic. I didn't cut anything other than the wires previously mentioned (all reds, all oranges, the white, the purple, the blue, and the gray. (Nothing else was cut.) As mentioned: NONE of the wires that I cut are touching ANYTHING especially any other loose wires. I really don't see how I could have done anything to cause this power unit to be faulty or short itself out. Further, I am not sure any of this explains why the fan acted differently during the first test than it has every test since (???). Maybe it is as you mention something about a temp controlled fan or something (???). But, now it is shorted out, and wasn't then??? I still don't understand the fan thing. Like I said, I am convinced none of the wires I cut are touching anything and I can't see (don't really know what to look for) what could be touching the heat sink to make it "live". I am guessing that maybe something underneath the circuit board is touching or shorting out. Unfortunately, I do not know much about circuit boards. (Probably obvious....) Do you have any thoughts or ideas? Should I try to pull the circuit board out and look for something peculiar? I assume I should be looking for something fairly obvious like wires or solder joints touching that shouldn't. Is there anything else I should look for? Is this power supply salvageable? Worth working on? Thanks, Douglas |
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New member Username: SimitchPost Number: 1 Registered: Sep-04 | Right.... ive got a 1989 R5 and i want to run 2 sony 220W RMS 3-way 6X9 speakers off my stereo. I was wondering if it would be necessary to fit a 2 channel amp to power them? if so would a 2 X 225 watts amp be ok? |
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Silver Member Username: FryguyNova Scotia Canada Post Number: 164 Registered: Jun-04 | mitch mother f%ckin g, It should have 6 on it all together and mabe 2 on the back side. I already told you above how to hook it up. |
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Silver Member Username: FryguyNova Scotia Canada Post Number: 165 Registered: Jun-04 | DDW, your wanting to measure the voltage from the black to the red and yellow wires to se if your getting 5 and 12 volts. The shock you got off the heatsink was normal one heatsink had the high voltage switching on it and its not isolated thats why they have the warning on the power supply. |
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Silver Member Username: FryguyNova Scotia Canada Post Number: 166 Registered: Jun-04 | simon mitchell, the 225 watt amp will do fine just dont go more then that. It will just give you a bit extra headroom with the extra 5 watts no big deal. |
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Anonymous | if im running 2 6x9 spealers off an amp will i need a power cap to power it |
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Silver Member Username: FryguyNova Scotia Canada Post Number: 167 Registered: Jun-04 | No but it does help |
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mitch mo f*ckin g Unregistered guest | does anyone have any bandpass box plans for sizes from 10inch to 15 inch? |
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Silver Member Username: FryguyNova Scotia Canada Post Number: 172 Registered: Jun-04 | Its not that easy, to build it the proper size you'll need to build according to the speakers "thiele small parameters" for the optimal sound reproduction characteristics. |
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Unregistered guest | Does any one know how many power supply amps I need to hook up a 700watt system in my home? thanks!! |
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Silver Member Username: FryguyNova Scotia Canada Post Number: 173 Registered: Jun-04 | 2 or 3 depending on the +12 volt output the power supplies can do. (two 25 amp or three 18 amp) |
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Unregistered guest | dear jonathan fry I've been reading the posts and trying to make sense of it all, but my electronic knowledge is minimal. Here's my situation. Over the years I've collected a few stock car stereos and now want to hook one up to AC power for a minimum budget. I have a Sanford and Son collection of electronics: old stereos,a computer,garage door opener, rc cars... all readily able for distruction if neccessary. All I want is a stock chrysler AM/FM radio tape deck pushing 4 6x9's. I already know I need a 12v power supply, but I want something more practicle than a car battery or car charger. It's probably childs play for you but I could use the help. to review:car stereo, four 6x9's, Sanford and Son parts. Please help much appreciated |
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StockRocker Unregistered guest | P.S.It's all sort of just experimenting. The garage is on a seperate breaker and I'm not afraid of sparks and fire. Plus, blowing up the stereo is no biggie. I'm just trying to learn the basics to move on to bigger and better things. I figure what better way to learn. Right? |
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Silver Member Username: FryguyNova Scotia Canada Post Number: 176 Registered: Jun-04 | That how i had to start now i got 60,000+ worth of sanford & son type parts kicking around! I have been trying to get rid of alot of it but as soon as i throw somthing out, later i find that i could have used it. go figure! First of all your going to need to determine your power needs for the stereo. 2 amps, 20 amps, 80 amps ? then from there you can determine what you can salvage for the power supply (12 or 13.8 to 14.4 volts at or slightly more then the current needed, of course) Its good that your not afraid or sparks and fire, but what do you plan on doing? Burning the project up? lol. If you follow some general rules for wiring you should be fine. 1: Always fuse the circuit (close to the normal amps used. EX: If it uses 5 amps normaly fuse at 6amps)(good to get a bunch of small resettable circuit breakers to save on fuse costs for testing unknown circuits) 2: All high voltage connections (at or above 60 volts)isolate so no user contact can happen. a simple plexiglass sheild or electrical tape works fine. 3: High current connections have to be tight. a loose high current connection can cause alot of heat (like an electric arc welder) and lead to a electrical fire. 4: Use a isolation transformer (very expensive and not that common in testing now) or a GFCI plug (same as a bathroom safty plug but not a razor outlet). This protects you and the circuit if there happens to be a high voltage hot wire touching the chassis of the device. Prevents damage and/or you getting a bad shock. 5: All high voltage circuits with capacitors need to be discharged before working on them. (TV's anode plug on the tube is 12,000+ volts at high current can litterly throw you accrost the room if your lucky it wont kill you.)Computer power supply they have 2 high voltage capacitors. They self discharge to a safe level within a short time (~15min)by the resiatance in the circuit.Also note in the high voltage section the heatsink is usualy electricaly hot when pluged in. Don't touch unless you want a shock :-D. 6: Don't ever work on a hot circuit unless you need to. If you need to work on a circuit when hot sheild youself from touching any high voltage sections (or any connections/parts if unsure). Just use a plastic sheild, heavy plastic like thin cardboard works well.tape or use hotmelt glue (the company i worked with thats how they fastened the shelding in place) sheild applies to the top or bottom of the circuit. With new/ unknown circuits this can be a saviour. I have had a few bad new capacitors just blow up in my face when powered up the first time! Would have hit me in the face if i didnt have the sheild. Insulate the tools and probe tips with a bit of tape to avoid accidental contact with other parts Ex Wrap tape on a shank of a screwdriver down to the blade to prevent shock/damage on hot circuit. They are some simple tips to help you have some safe and fun experimenting with electronics and electricity. There are more specific to the tools your using also. |
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Stock Rocker Unregistered guest | Thanx Fry guy. I'll let you know how it turns out. |
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Unregistered guest | I just got a 444 sony amp and I can't really afford a cd player for a while I was wondering if I could hook up the amp and my subs to the stock stereo it's not a tape or nethin just a radio. One of my friends said u needed somethin thats in a tape deck or cd deck to hook up and amp i was just wonderin if that was true and if and how i can hook the amp?E-mail me answer Etniesdude82488@aol.com |
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Silver Member Username: FryguyNova Scotia Canada Post Number: 177 Registered: Jun-04 | I'm cheep, i dont have a fancy deck, and portable players are handy and serve as two purposes for me. Portable personal audio and then in the car (truck in my case) on my amp. To do this just use a RCA patch cable (1/8" stereo headphone plug to two RCA plugs 'white=left,red=right')this will connect to the amp and then plug into your portable cd player. Volume it controled by the portable device. Just turn the amp gain the whole way down then turn the portable device up (while playing a loud recording :-D)then when it starts to clip turn it down slightly then turn the amp gain up to where it clips then back off slightly. Now your set to rock n' roll. |
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New member Username: Capitan_jackPost Number: 1 Registered: Sep-04 | hi jonathan i have 1000watt sony amplifier and a 15" sony sub and i hooked it up to my comp with two 16amp NEXT ATX power supply i tied all the yello wire and ground wire from one power to other but it sound is worse than connect one of them whilst my amp require 42amp but even i can't give good sound from one channel.pls help me |
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Silver Member Username: FryguyNova Scotia Canada Post Number: 181 Registered: Jun-04 | what exactly is it doing? a buzzing noise if so its a ground-loop fed back, basicly resistance in the ground between the source and the amp. |
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New member Username: Capitan_jackPost Number: 2 Registered: Sep-04 | can you explain more ? |
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Silver Member Username: FryguyNova Scotia Canada Post Number: 183 Registered: Jun-04 | you'll need to explain your problem more, is the above noise what your getting? what typing os behaviour are you getting how is it setup. amp and deck connected by speaker level inputs or RCA? etc |
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Anonymous | i want to run 2 sony 220W RMS 3-way 6X9 speakers, with a 10 inch sub.... would the sony 3/4 channel 500w be ok to use. (the reason why i ask is because the speakers are only 220w but the amp is 500w (over powered???))... then would i be able to run the sub off it as well. |
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Anonymous | yeah it will be fine just bridge the back channel to power the sub, use gain controls to reduce power. |
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New member Username: 14120Post Number: 1 Registered: Sep-04 | 500 watts means that it is 125 watts times 4 and that equals to about 70 watts RMS times 4 so there is no way you will overpower your 6by9s if they are 220watts rms. but that sound like bullshit coz theres no way sony could get 220 watts out of a 6bynine |
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New member Username: Capitan_jackPost Number: 4 Registered: Sep-04 | i didn't get noise.and i connected them to RCA output of my comp to sub.speakers are connected to a 2400w kenwood mini system.i tied all the yello together and the sound didn't differ from one or 2 supply and my headlight still dimm when sub in knocking??? sorry for my bad english |
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Stock Rocker Unregistered guest | Hey Fry, I got that stereo hooked up the way I wanted with only a few sparks no damage. Ibuilt a kickin cabinet to make it all portable. That San.&Son collection came in handy. Scrap wood and carpet remnants made it NYCE! Thanks again for your help. Rock On!! |
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Silver Member Username: FryguyNova Scotia Canada Post Number: 187 Registered: Jun-04 | Marty Vale, remember that mostly all speakes are rated in peak power and RMS is aprox half that. |
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Silver Member Username: FryguyNova Scotia Canada Post Number: 188 Registered: Jun-04 | Anonymous your 500 watt amp is perfect for 2 6x9's and the 10" sub that a very nice combination. It should sound awesome. The back channels bridge mono for the sub and your set to go. I have the same setup but with a 12" sub in my truck sounds great you may want to add a pair of small tweeters (1/2" -1") to balance it out some but it may be because I have a 12" sub and my 6x9's aren't 2 way or 3 way that I found that it wasn't balanced very well. |
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Silver Member Username: FryguyNova Scotia Canada Post Number: 190 Registered: Jun-04 | CaPitaN@jack , why do you have a headlight hooked up to your amp? Do you have this setup in a car/truck? Either way, you will want to have a few very large capacitors to help with the power (AKA 'boomer caps') it adds a temporary storage of power next to the amp for the bass. This will relive the stress off the power source. If it's in a car/truck you may want to upgrade the factory alternator to meat the power requirements of the power hungry amp you have. Are you trying to power the amp from only one or two power supplies ? That is a hard core amp you will need more then two computer supplies to properly power that amp! |
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New member Username: Capitan_jackPost Number: 6 Registered: Sep-04 | No it's in my room.and my mean of headlight is the green power light on the amp.can i add capacitors in atx power supply if yes how?i think the amper that is write on the side of supply is fake and it's not really 16amp???anyway i must buy more power supply.Thanks |
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Silver Member Username: FryguyNova Scotia Canada Post Number: 193 Registered: Jun-04 | The rating is right but you have a large amp you'll need power supplies that at least add up to the fuse rating of the amp. Two 16 amp ATX supplies can't power that amp alone. Large capacitors will help the capacitors positive goes on the amps positive lug the negative to the negative lug, that easy. |
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Anonymous | i was wondering what the best way is to power my 500w amp running 2 6x9's and a 10 inch sub.... would a seperate car battery be ok. |
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Silver Member Username: FryguyNova Scotia Canada Post Number: 202 Registered: Jun-04 | why use a separate car battery? where are you going to be using it at? |
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