Anyone Install A New Alternator On Their Own?
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New member Username: AzdavePost Number: 4 Registered: Dec-04 | Anyone? I'm looking at ordering a new HO alternator either from www.alterstart.com or http://www.rushpowersystems.com/prod03, and I was wondering if it was worthwhile to have a pro do it. There are only two wires (and yes, I'm upgrading the alternator wires too). I'm installing in a 2003 V6 Camry. The alterstart model is 170 amp ($300) and the Rush is 150 amp ($180). I'm running (2) JL 300/2 and a JL 250/1. |
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Silver Member Username: CarguyPost Number: 743 Registered: Nov-04 | Hey Dave, changing alternator isn't that hard. All it takes is some manual labour. 4alterstart will give you instructions/help, just ask for it while ordering. Talk to a guy named Pat, he's very polite and helpful. I talked to him today. |
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New member Username: AzdavePost Number: 6 Registered: Dec-04 | Thanks for the info. The alternator is on the top at the front of my engine, so I don't think getting at it would be too hard. |
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Silver Member Username: CarguyPost Number: 750 Registered: Nov-04 | You're very lucky then. On my Mustang it was at the top too. Made it very easy to replace. On my Acura, those d**b a** decided to put the alternator near the bottom right under may hoses and bolts. Trying to get at it is like trying to stick you hand through a tiny hole that turns and twists. This is why I like old American cars, very easy to fix and replace parts. |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 6137 Registered: Dec-03 | The only problem you might encounter is if that Toyota's ECM monitors the alternator through a sensor wire. Then you may need to bypass this sensor when swapping out the alternator. This is fairly common on newer cars. I've changed a number of alternators out, but then I built the motor in my present car, too so I have a bit of experience at that sort of thing I guess. |
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New member Username: DannygischBancroft , Ia United states Post Number: 1 Registered: Dec-04 | It completely depents on how big of an amp you have i have a rockford fosgate bd t10001 it runs 1000 watts to each of my two r-type alpine subs my amp pulls at max 100amps its self. if i were you i would get a 150 amp alternator and then a 5 farad capacitor it will help in a long run. (but it depends on your amp) |
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Bronze Member Username: DnizzleRaleigh, NC USA Post Number: 17 Registered: Nov-04 | I can't believe that you are spending 300 on an alternator. Change your battery under your hood to a rockford gell cell and u should be good to go |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 6203 Registered: Dec-03 | Dnizzle has no understanding of charging systems. Daniel, that amp is a bit too large for those subs. Type R subs are rated for about 350wRMS each. |
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Silver Member Username: CarguyPost Number: 806 Registered: Nov-04 | Hey Drizzle, I'll be polite, go read up on alternators and battery...  |
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Anonymous | lol glass you crack me up sometimes |
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New member Username: DannygischBancroft , Ia United states Post Number: 5 Registered: Dec-04 | no the amp isn't to big because if the rms at 350 i can still run more because i have doen that alot with systems i have done i have pretty good luck with the alpine r-types at 4ohms and parrelel wired to one ohm with that type of amp...i help a guy who won the competition of nation in i think 93 or 96 but yea if u do it right it won't be to big of an amp |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 6227 Registered: Dec-03 | The Type R subs can handle up to abput 500 watts each continuous, depending a lot on the enclosure type, but understand that power handling ratings on speakers are a thermal rating of how much heat the coils can handlw without incurring damage. By putting more than the rated power to the subs, you're not gaining any more excursion or displacement, and you're only creating more heat across the coils, causing damage to your subs. The power needed for a Type R to reach peak excursion is far, far less than you're giving them, regardless of your luck with previous installations. You're right though. You've pretty much been very lucky you haven't damaged the subs. One reason for this may be not running the amplifiers at full output, which has in reality perhaps kept the subs from seeing much more than their rated thermal handling specs. |
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Bronze Member Username: DnizzleRaleigh, NC USA Post Number: 19 Registered: Nov-04 | I think i know about on charging systems. The battery helps when the alternator spikes or gets overloaded. Throw a gell cell under the hood and another matching one in the trunk and you are good to go. My friend had 4 500w rms Phoniex gold subs powered by 2 1000w rms amps and he kept the stock alternator and just got a nice 150 dollar battery and stuck it under the hood. Glasswolf, you always make people spend more money then they really need too. You recommend component speaker systems which are simply speakers that have had the tweeter removed. Most people in this board listen to rap and rock and horns would serve the purpose much better of giving them their highs they're looking for. |
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Silver Member Username: CarguyPost Number: 828 Registered: Nov-04 | Hey Dnizzle, I think Glasswolf is trying to give you alternatives. Most people are used to just "getting" by with things. He's offering you a safe, sometimes expensive solutions. Remember when you're in need of help, isn't always good to know you can get at least several solutions from different people? |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 6247 Registered: Dec-03 | I stay within budgets if people offer one. If they don't, I give them the best solution for what I'd consider a reasonable price. Granted, I have a job, so what I consider reasonable, perhaps a highschool student wouldn't. That's why people should not only suggest a budget when asking for advice, but they should consider total system expenditures before they go balls to the wall building a high powered system, then realize they don't have the charging system to support the current draw. Expensive is a matter of point of view. It isn't an objective statement. He asked about alternators. I didn't shove the idea down his throat. As I already said though, yes the battery helps if the voltage rails drop below 12 volts. When that happens though, the battery doesn't get recharged, the voltage rails still sag, and this can affect more than making lights dim, or making the audio distort. This causes amps to clip which destroys speakers. This can also cause the electrical system of the car to have problems with things like the ECM. Electronics don't function well with poor voltage rails, and I'd rather someone spend an extra couple hundred bucks to have a good charging system than see them get into a car wreck because their car stalled in traffic due to the voltage rail failure, and yes, I have seen it happen. You are however welcome to your own views, and I fully support that. Thank you for voicing your alternate thoughts. In this case though, I do disagree with them for the above reasons. |
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New member Username: DannygischBancroft , Ia United states Post Number: 7 Registered: Dec-04 | dude don't get all madd and my amps push full and my subs can peak onethousand watts. i do what i do and lets keep it to that....i am glad u give alternatives and yes i know what u mean by how ppl should tell their budgets...some kids just want base get it then ruin stuff or can't run full power because of electrical stuff |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 6324 Registered: Dec-03 | daniel, my last reply was mainly in regards to Dnizzle's remarks. Not yours. no worries. |
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Bronze Member Username: DnizzleRaleigh, NC USA Post Number: 20 Registered: Nov-04 | Glasswolf, another thing I notice is you always recommend component speakers. It is the biggest waste of money. For people who listen to rap, horns will do the job. |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 6345 Registered: Dec-03 | horns? horn tweeters? they are tweeters. not full range components. If you're referring to waveguides, then they are the biggest waste of money by far, at over a grand per pair, and still requiring a midbass driver. Are you setting up a car with just loads of subs, and then throwing in some wteeters and forgetting about mids entirely? I've seen a few systems like that, but generally not very often. Separates give you the best options for positioning to get a good soundstage and good imaging. Coaxials will work well, but not as well generally speaking. The best speaker setups you can buy without building your own from scratch are component separates for a front stage. Out of curiosity how long have you been installing or designing systems for car audio, niz? Gimme some links to show me what you consider a good set of "horns." I want to see exactly what you're referring to so we're on the same page here. |
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