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New member Username: Sr5p33dPearl City, HI USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Oct-04 | can anyone help me out here? i was wondering how would one go about wiring multiple batteries into a audio system? ive heard a couple people talking about putting yellow top batteries in their system and wanted to try something like that. so besides the regular battery and alternator there would be an extra battery just for the sounds. how would i wire that battery in? any help would be appreciated. thnx |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 4683 Registered: Dec-03 | you use a 'battery isolator' that isolates the battery(ies) in the trunk for the audio system from the starter battery so even if youfully discharge the deep cycles, the car will still start like new. if you use multiple batteries for audio, wire them in parallel, and connect audio gear to those batteries only.. not to the car's starter battery or stock electrical system. |
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New member Username: Sr5p33dPearl City, HI USA Post Number: 2 Registered: Oct-04 | so does that mean i can't hook the alternator up to my amps or whatever im powering with the batteries? im thinking that the batteries wont be recharged since they wont be wired in with the stock electrical. or will the batteries in parallel last a while even without the alt. |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 4736 Registered: Dec-03 | the alternator goes to the isolator. from the isolator you go to the starter battery and the accessory batteries. the two batteries never see each other so the car starts using one, and the audio system uses the other(s) however the isolator allows all of the batteries to be recharged by the alternator. the alternator also supplies all of the current while the engine is running, for both the car and the audio system. the batteries are only used when the car engine is shut off. |
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New member Username: Sr5p33dPearl City, HI USA Post Number: 3 Registered: Oct-04 | ah ok. thanks a lot =) |
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New member Username: ProtrexPost Number: 8 Registered: Sep-04 | And god it works well. I have an isolator plugged into my 150amp HO Alternator in my 1992 Toyota Camry. I have one side of the alternator going to a Optima Yellowtop which I mounted in the center of my spare tire in the trunk to power my amps and inverter. I have the other side going to a standard NAPA Gold battery under the hood. Car starts every time, even if I listen to my system at full volume with the car off untill the optima is dead. I had to rig some diodes with a heatsink and put them between my first battery and the alternator in order to charge my alternator field. Without them my alternator wouldn't work. -Jamie |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 5178 Registered: Dec-03 | heh yeah my current project car uses a 270A alternator to an Orion MBR70 multiple battery regulator. from there it goes to a redtop starter battery and a pair of parallel isolated yellow tops for the audio system I have. the yellow tops are in the trunk over the right rear wheel to add some weight for traction, which helps a bit with this car. using 1/0ga throughout, then splitting to 4ga for each of the 3 amps. works out splendidly. I can run the system into the ground as well, and not worry about starting up the car.. and this car needs juice to turn over due to the high torque starter for the high compression big block under the hood. |
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New member Username: ProtrexPost Number: 9 Registered: Sep-04 | I installed the alternator before anything else, I knew that Japanese cars usually come stock with alternators that are hardly able to power the car, let alone power a hyped up sound system. I calculated the total draw of the car (in a maximum load situation) being 60A and the stock alternator was rated at 70A. I knew this would choke if I was driving down the road at night with my A/C and brights on. I also wanted to make sure that my car would start on cold winter days here in Connecticut, so I installed the isolator and a second battery. I scratched my head for awhile trying to figure out why my alt wasn't producing any power when the isolator was hooked up, but a call to the manufacturer of the isolator quickly provided an answer. I needed to install some diodes on the + pole of the alternator which connect directly to the first battery. I ended using 2 6A diodes thermally epoxied to an extra heatsink I had lying around. I heatshrunk everything and bolted it to the car. It works like a champ now. -Jamie |
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New member Username: Hurleyblink187Post Number: 2 Registered: Nov-04 | uhmm question, night now i just have a stock alt rated at 85a and a 500 watt sound storm amp, going to pioneer 6x9's, i want to put in another amp 1400 watts or more running to 2 audiobahn 12's can i just use a reg battery for a car and mount that in the trunk, (not connecting it to the alternator, keep in mind i know eventually it will die) |
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GabMasta Unregistered guest | ok i have a stock 105 amp alt. currently my power is being drained. im running (1)1000 watt amp and (1) kicker 240. if i crank the system up my deck starts to flicker then it turns off. my headlights flicker as well. i was looking at putting another battery when i kept reading that it will only help when the car is off. so i would like to know what should i do to fix my flickering prob |
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Silver Member Username: Joe718Brooklyn, NY Post Number: 211 Registered: May-04 | You need a high output alternator |
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Silver Member Username: CarguyPost Number: 176 Registered: Nov-04 | Hey Gabmasta, if you're stock alternator is giving you 105A, that's pretty good. Most will produce 75A. Anyways, you will need HO alternator and a capacitor, 1F per 1000W. That should solve your flickering problem. |
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Bronze Member Username: KkmikeChicago suburb Post Number: 19 Registered: Feb-04 | Do the battery isolators have to match the amperage of the alternator? I see isolators for 70A, 90A, and 120A....and I have a 140A alternator. |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 6024 Registered: Dec-03 | they should. yes. check eBay or RV supply shops. they both usually carry at least 200A models. |
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Unregistered guest | I have a 1997 chevy cavalier with a 1600w kenwood pushing 3 12" infintiy subs and an 800w kenwood for my mids and highs. I also have a bunch of neons, strobes and four screens. I have an optima red top already installed running off a 105a alternator but my car is still hard to start and i dont want to ruin my alternator. what is the best direction for me to go should i add a second battery or upgrade the alt. Any suggestions would be helpful |
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Bronze Member Username: TerminatermuleAustralia Post Number: 37 Registered: Nov-04 | The alt mate - go the alt. Cheers Glenn |
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Unregistered guest | Thanks what would be a better size 140a or higher because i plan on adding more stuff also. |
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Silver Member Username: CarguyPost Number: 774 Registered: Nov-04 | If you can get 200A then go for it. |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 6136 Registered: Dec-03 | http://www.wickedcases.com/caraudio/charging.html |
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Unregistered guest | Thanks for the web address it was very helpful. |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 6169 Registered: Dec-03 | thank you for taking the time to read it. |