E dead

 

Bronze Member
Username: Jarryd2018

Post Number: 52
Registered: Sep-04
has anybody ever heard of this stuff its spose to be as good as dynamat but it costs a lot less
its only $1 for a square foot so u can buy a lot of it for the price of a little bit of dynamat and do more layers if its not as good im just wondering wat other people think about it
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 4522
Registered: Dec-03
should do the same thing
all it has to do is absorb vibration in metal
 

Silver Member
Username: Fishy

Tamarac, FL USA

Post Number: 477
Registered: Sep-04
Yeah just look at the thickness(1 mil = .001 in = .0254 mm) and type of material used. Most all of the "good" ones I've seen use some sort of "asphalt" material covered with a thin layer of aluminum.

The stuff works by "dampening" the surface which is kinda like adding a bunch of tiny shock absorbers, and by adding mass which effectively lowers the resonant frequency of the surface. Adding a layer of just about "anything" add's mass and increases dampening so should be of some help.

-Fishy
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 4530
Registered: Dec-03
yup. that's exactly what it does.
lowers the fes freq, and adds mass.
absorbs resonance as well.
in my case, I used a spray-in liner throughout the car for a few reasons.
Reduces engine and solar heat transfer by 25-30°F.
Reduces noise by 10-12 decibels
Forms continuous airtight, waterproof membrane
Can be sanded, primed and painted
Used under fenders to eliminate starring
Withstands temperatures to 500°F.
thickness applied is .040-.060"
2 gallons covers about 45-50sq feet.

the drawbacks are that you need to gut the whole car down to bare metal to apply it, and it's not cheap. about $190 for 2 gallons

 

Silver Member
Username: Fishy

Tamarac, FL USA

Post Number: 479
Registered: Sep-04
Yeah I've got severe vibration problems in my Explorer's doors. I've allready added a layer of some Tsunami Silencer stuff($5 per ft^2, 60 mil + 3 mil aluminum). I've got some less expensive stuff on order from Canada which I think is nearly exactly the same thing($2 per ft^2, 65 mil total). If that doesn't work my next step is to go with some Fatmat which is a lil thinner at 45 mils but much cheaper at $1 a ft^2.

The question I have(I asked Jonathan and he said try it) is should I try placing this stuff on plastic molding like on the inside of my doorskins? or should I just stick to the sheetmetal panels.

I would think plastic would have some built in dampening characteristics already.

I'm sorry I can't stand my music with extra buzzes and stuff. Sounds like I'm killing my 5 1/4" Q's and I don't think I am.

-Fishy
 

Gold Member
Username: Glasswolf

NorthWest, Michigan USA

Post Number: 4542
Registered: Dec-03
actually with plastic being light and thin (relatively speaking) it will have a fairly high resonant or sympathetic frequency many times, so you'll get a lot of those higher pitched whines and buzzes from plastic before metal.
what you achieve by damping metal is an increase in overall efficiency by losing less energy due to speakers rattling the sheet metal and moving air in the cabin instead.
both serve to your advantage.
result, sure use spray expanding foam or mat or spray-in liner for plastics.. just do it in thin layers so the plastic still fits back into place snugly.

check out this stuff. I use it in my car:
http://www.newlizardskin.com/

 

Silver Member
Username: Fishy

Tamarac, FL USA

Post Number: 504
Registered: Sep-04
Oh ok, I figured the reason the plastic was vibrating was because it was touching an already vibrating piece of metal. I'm not so concerned with increased SPL as with getting the rattles out. I've got an Xtant 4180c bridged into my 5 1/4 Q's(180w x 2) and want to make sure I'm not overdriving those lil things. At the moment I can't always tell if its the drivers or my doorskins making those godawful noises. Some things are definitely frequency related as they occur on certain tracks even at moderate volumes and/or are not exactly located in the vicinity of the drivers.

thanks

-Fishy
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