Archive through February 17, 2009
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Bronze Member Username: 60adantePost Number: 10 Registered: Feb-07 | I have a 4 yr old DLP model HLP5063WX/XAA. I replaced the bulb last year - August 2007. Today, while watching we just heard a pop and the video went out. I turned the TV off and then on. There is no video coming out, only audio and the green power on keeps on blinking. Can anybody help me? Is it the bulb? Replacing parts of this TV is very expensive. |
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New member Username: SosuflyboiPost Number: 2 Registered: Nov-08 | Ok guys I think my ballast might be the problem. Im not tech name savy so please excuse my description of parts. On the ballast board right behind the connector for the lamp well between the connector and the rear square thing that has what appears to be copper wire wrapped around it. Tends to spark a few times at start up I do not think that is normal any one want to prove me wrong please do. Also right behind the front copper wire square thingy just under the connector there are 2 orange rectanguler square things one of them has a hard white substance around it that if i recall is not good. Anyone wanna throw some feedback would greatly appreciate it. Im going to hold off buying a new one till someone else chimes in where there thoughts here. Oh would like to add with further inspection the color wheel is working properly. There is no multiple clicking when power is pressed it has just one nice loud strong sounding click and takes it from there. I dont believe its the lamp as I have had the set running all night for multiple days in a row where I Was watching movie and fell asleep. |
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New member Username: JoeeytSoCal, CA USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Nov-08 | Hello, I've had my 61" HLS6187 for almost 2 years now and am having the same issues Steve is having above with the black horizontal lines and pixelation/silkscreen effect on most images. The recommendation above was to replace the DMD board. Steve, did replacing the DMD fix the problem? The tech who diagnosed my tv told me I have to replace the entire light engine. Is that really necessary? Is it more difficult to replace the engine assembly than just the DMD board? Can anyone help. Joey |
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New member Username: KenmanblueBoynton Beach, FL Post Number: 2 Registered: Nov-08 | Earlier, I posed pictures of my Samsung HLP-5085W with the "rectangle boxes" of vertical lines. I surmised that this was the DMD board/light engine, although I did not receive a reply on this forum. So, I emailed the pictures to the authorized Samsung repair center in South Florida (Lakes Electronics). They also figured it was the light engine, and sent someone to replace it. Turns out, it was not the light engine at all, but rather a digital PCB board. The good news is that this board was $300.00, and not the $550.00 they were going to charge for the light engine. I was impressed with the technician, as he was clearly well trained. After watching him replace the light engine, it looked like something I could do myself. But the PCB board was much more difficult, as it was buried among other connectors, boards, and steel cases. Had I attempted this without detailed instructions, I surely would have made a mess. Anyway, all is fine now, and I'm glad its back. But I've never heard anyone else mention this board. Is this a rare occurance? |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 197 Registered: May-07 | Adam Jennings, You can not tell if the colorwheel is spinning or not either way. It spins at 3000-5000 revolutions per minute... The fact that you have audio and no picture gives you a 80% chance of the lamp being bad. The symptom you are describing all lead to a lamp. Make sure you buy Philips brand lamp from an authorized dealer. They have fake / stamped Philips bulbs out there and you don't want to become a victim over $5 savings. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 198 Registered: May-07 | Josh Son, DMD Board. The actual DLP chip on the DMD board is failing it seems to me from the picture. I'm not sure though. Can you describe the problem in depth? Does it happen on all inputs? did you try connecting VGA? UHF/VHF antenna? |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 199 Registered: May-07 | Adam Jennings, Just read your second post. Your lamp is most likely bad. Don't over diagnose it! The copperwire you are describing is the transformer. The ballast is supposed to spark/click once.. if it clicks multiple times then the ballast is bad. Again, I'm pretty sure it's the bulb... Or at least your first step in diagnosing the problem should be a new bulb. Go to Discount-Merchant.com or PartStore.com and get yourself a lamp for around $100, pop it in and watch away! |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 200 Registered: May-07 | D Santos, The loud popping noise was the noise of the lamp imploding! Pull the bulb out to see if it's shattered. That should verify my guess that the lamp has imploded. This is a result of overheating the lamp, or suddent change in temperature. Also, surges to the TV set can cause this. I recommend everyone buying a $2.99 surge protector and using it for your TV set. Surges in electricity can cause your lamps, ballast, and power supplies to fail. It's a good investment, however, make sure you do not POWER ON or POWER OFF the tv with the surge protector switch! The DLP TV sets have a temperature sensor inside that keeps the fan on until the lamp cools down! The worst thing you can do is pull the plug on a hot tv/bulb! Use the powerstrip as a surge protector only and NOT AN ON / OFF switch. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 201 Registered: May-07 | Joey T, It does sound like a DMD issue. I would wait for D-M to start selling them. I will call D-M tomorrow and ask them about complete light engines and pricing. Maybe they have more information by now. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 202 Registered: May-07 | Ken, The Digital PCB Board you are refering to is the DMD Board. Digital Micromirrored Device is a chip that is located on the the board, hence, we call it the DMD board. It's a small chip with "millions of mirrors" on it that produce the image. Look here: http://www.visitech.no/bilde/luxbeam_3000_board.jpg This is a DMD Board but not from a samsung.. I just pulled it off the net. The DMD chip is the square chip with a shiney center. The center has the "millions of mirrors" ! |
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New member Username: ContrayPost Number: 1 Registered: Dec-08 | I have a samsung DLP madel HLR4667W. I am having a problem with the picture cutting out randomly. Sound still comes through an I can see light coming out of the rear of the unit. I can hit the power button and let it shut down. Then turn back on and the picture is back. The picture can go hours or just sometimes minutes before I have to restart again. I just bought the t.v. from my uncle for $350. He replaced the color wheel in late march. Is it just a bulb problem? or do I need to just get an air can and clean the hec out of everything? |
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New member Username: Gs20Post Number: 3 Registered: Nov-08 | what is "D-M"?.......what does that stand for?.....or at least, what is their web address?......thanks. |
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New member Username: Gs20Post Number: 4 Registered: Nov-08 | never mind.........found it "DM", the "-" fooled us.......i am getting old, some stuff gets by me. |
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New member Username: FabbyPost Number: 1 Registered: Nov-08 | Hi, I have a Mitsu VS-5071 50 in. For how old this TV is, it has worked great. Recently, when you turn it on it goes into a constant vertical roll. It use to self adjust after about 15-30 min., but now it can take hours. However, I notice that it rolls more on the cable ant. The manual does have have a section about vertical adjustment, can you help me? Any info would be greatly appreicated. Thank you. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 203 Registered: May-07 | Fabby, Look here for the help on that particular problem. I don't want to re-type the whole thing: |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 204 Registered: May-07 | Jack Black, D-M or DM means Discount-Merchant.com Sorry about the abbreviation! Hopefully within this next week or two we should start seeing some DLP parts on their site as promised. I'm sure they are going to help thousands of people out with if what they say is true. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 205 Registered: May-07 | Mike Conner, I would try a new lamp. You never know, the tech that replaced the colorwheel may have replaced the lamp. And if he did, he might have tried to make a little profit by sticking a generic lamp in there. Hence the intermittent problem. If the new lamp doesn't solve it, let me know and I can diagnose it further. Remember to buy an original Philips brand lamp from an authorized Philips dealer. Again guys, I just found out Advancedlamps.com is selling "REFURBISHED" philips lamps. What they are doing is using DiamondLamps to REBUILD the lamp. This is no longer a Philips bulb when you stick a chinese made filament into a Philips reflector. BE CAREFUL with those guys! |
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New member Username: Ayers5Post Number: 1 Registered: Dec-08 | Hello, After reading through this site and seeing alot of good information maybe some one can help. I have an SAMSUNG DLP HL-S4676S out of warranty of course. It has 2 problems, the first is there are green, red, yellow, blue and pink lines about 1.5 inches in length with a space of about a quarter to half inch between them in columns from top to bottom of the screen. When in HD the lines are around the outside of the picture when in analog they are all throughout the picture. Second, as of two days ago 8-10 white and black dots started appearing, now it is upwards of 20 mostly white. any information would be greatly appreciated thanks |
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New member Username: MarkeymanPost Number: 1 Registered: Dec-08 | Hi, I have a 4.5 year old HLN437W. Hooked up via DVI. Last 6 monthes I have had intermittent screen freeze to black and white negative appearance with sound intact. It increased in frequency to on avg every 30-60 min. Called local Samsung support and independent who both said most likely colorwheel. But not classic signs (no whine or abnormal noise). Various postings led me to believe DMB. I bought a refurbished DMB from Samsung and replaced. TV performed about 3 hrs before freezing again. I replaced the color wheel. TV performed about 9-10 hrs before freezing again. I switched connections to component and it ran all day yesterday without freeze. This leads me to several questions I am hoping someone can answer. 1) are there inherent problems out their with DVI connections? 2) did I get a bad "refurbished" DMB board from Samsung? and one unrelated question 1) does running sound thru external source significantly reduce heat output of TV? i got 3 grand plus 500 in this thing now and wonder if it is time to move on to a new TV (wont be Samsung or DLP). But I love the picture when it works. Thanks for reading my ramble - markeyman |
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New member Username: Ayers5Post Number: 2 Registered: Dec-08 | Hello, After reading through this site and seeing alot of good information maybe some one can help. I have an SAMSUNG DLP HL-S4676S out of warranty of course. It has 2 problems, the first is there are green, red, yellow, blue and pink lines about 1.5 inches in length with a space of about a quarter to half inch between them in columns from top to bottom of the screen. When in HD the lines are around the outside of the picture when in analog they are all throughout the picture. Second, as of two days ago 8-10 white and black dots started appearing, now it is upwards of 20 mostly white. any information would be greatly appreciated thanks |
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New member Username: Dl151Post Number: 1 Registered: Dec-08 | Hi I have been reading and hope someone can help. I have a Samsung HL-R5078W that was working fine until a month ago. Then the picture froze (perfect HD picture from Directv source)and the audio continued. I was unable to switch sources to off air etc. I turned it off and then unplugged it for about five minutes, plugged it back in and turned in on. It started up as usual but there was no picture-just audio but I was able to switch sources. The lamp was on but no picture. I turned it off, unplugged it and left it set overnight. The next day it powered up and it worked until I turned it off with the remote. The next time I tried to turn it on with the remote-just audio no picture. I unplugged it and left it set and this worked a few times but eventually I did not get a picture. I just replaced the lamp but this did not help. There was never a noise asssociated with a bad color wheel. Some say it can't be the ballast because the lamp is on-others say that it still could be the ballast because it may not power the color wheel. Any suggestions would be appreciated-Dave |
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New member Username: Dean_pricePost Number: 2 Registered: Dec-08 | My samsung HLR5688W has aproblem with a split screen black on the right side picture on the left side. This happens after about 2 hours or more of wathing tv. it can be temporarily corrected. by turning the tv off for a minute or so then turning it back on.I saw one other post with exact same problem, have not seen a reply yet please help |
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New member Username: WhytryPost Number: 1 Registered: Dec-08 | Hi all, I am new to posting but have lurked for a little while. I have a Samsung 52" DLP tv, it was bought in Sept 05, recently the color wheel and lamp went out, bought and replaced myself. For about 3 weeks everything was fine but then all of the sudded randomly when you turn the tv on it turns itself back off again, typically pretty much within 30 seconds of turning it on. So far it seems on the 5 or 6 time it turns on and stays on, but when it does not it turns itself off and I get the Lamp and Standby/Temp lights flash and it will not turn back on right away I need to wait about 1 minute then it powers back on and turns back off about 30 seconds into it. Color is fine, I am guessing it is temp related but the fact that it is random has me a little more concerned. What could it be? Suggestions? Loose connection somewhere fan maybe? I thought I would post it up before I started trying things.... Also when I did the replacement I used the youtube video on how to do it, so I was not just randomly unscrewing things, only took out what was needed to replace parts, that was it. Thanks in advance!! |
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Bronze Member Username: 60adantePost Number: 11 Registered: Feb-07 | ovadoggvo, As per your recommendation (12/3 posting,my original posting was 12/1/08) I replaced the lamp. Still there is no video coming out of the TV, only audio. There is a hizzing sound coming out and the front panel indicators - the green and red lights keep on flashing. So I think it is not the lamp that has a problem. About 1 1/2 year ago the DMD board was replaced. Could it be the same problem. Or could it be the color wheel because I could hear that hizzing sound. Need your advice. Thanks, |
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Silver Member Username: JumpbackPost Number: 159 Registered: Nov-05 | I tried looking for the same problem that I am having with my Samsung, but could not find it. I have a perfect picture and startup. However, there is a very loud buzzing (humming) coming from the back of the set. It is louder than the tv sound. It sounds like a fan that is stuck. Assuming that is the problem I immediately turned the tv off so the lamp would not explode or anything. Any suggestions? TV guy is coming out, but they said it would take 10 days for him to arrive. I would like to tell him what I think it really is so he brings the parts with him. Thanks!!! |
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New member Username: Djlj0531Post Number: 4 Registered: Sep-08 | Has anyone heard any news on D-M offering the DM boards for sale? I called today to check and see if they had started selling them yet and the girl I spoke to had no idea what I was talking about. Does anyone have any new news or can you get any on status? |
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New member Username: MxxmikexxPost Number: 10 Registered: Sep-08 | I called and talked to some guy this morning and he said that they dont know for sure when they will get them but it wont be before the first of the year. |
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New member Username: Djlj0531Post Number: 5 Registered: Sep-08 | Thanks Mike |
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New member Username: BcolbertEncinitas, CA United States Post Number: 1 Registered: Dec-08 | HLS5088WX/XAA (I think  ) I've had this problem for some time. Many of my on-screen display functions don't display. Things such as the current channel, source, volume. I'm able to access the menu, which is good. Sometimes the on-screen display will freak out and the channel number will show, and stay showing and nothing else will show, such as the menu (volume indication is always dead). I feel that part of this has a root cause. I use a cable card, and every now and again it would "reboot" (the card, not the TV). With this "reboot" the on screen displays would show and be useful for about 5 seconds, and then they would disappear again, never to return (until the next reboot). Strangely, if I quickly changed the source to something other then the cable card while it was it was reseting, I would have my on screen displays again, until I changed the source back to the cable card. I also used to use the built in TV Guide, but it hasn't worked in over a year now. Anyway, it's a very peculiar mess. I've done the whole un-plug replug thing, and sometimes it helps, sometimes it hinders, and sometimes it does nothing. I've reset it to the factory settings using the service menu and it didn't help. My solution thus far is to ditch the cable card and switch to a cable box, that way I will know what channel I'm watching and have a channel guide. It sure would be nice to get this TV back to full functionality, however. Any ideas? Thanks, Brad |
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New member Username: AlvitdkPost Number: 1 Registered: Dec-08 | Hi, Just a lst quick check if anybody has a solution since I ordered a new Plasma already (can still cancel). I have an Samsung HLR4667. The unit kept turning off every 10minutes, so I ordered a replacement bulb (Philips) from DM and replaced it. The new bulb was smaller than the original Osram and came with an adapter ring. Now, the TV runs fine for about a week until it turns off again after several hours and than in 5 minute intervals. I did change the lamp driver in the service mode from Osram to Philips. What else can cause this, I really do not want to spend 300.- or more trying to get it fixed. The Tv is less than 2 Years old, it's a shame to scrap it so early. Thanks |
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New member Username: HowardoPost Number: 1 Registered: Dec-08 | Hello. I have a 4 year old 46" Samsung DLP 4663 TV. I have always had a problem with the sound cutting out for a second or 2, every so often. Just tonight the sound would cut out, then the screen would go black with a message "No Input". It only lasts about a second, and then the program resumes. This happens about every 15 minutes. I called our cable supplier, and they said it's the TV (if it was the cable, the message would be "No signal"). Any suggestions? Thanks! |
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New member Username: Paul_bJacksonville, Florida UNITED STATES Post Number: 1 Registered: Dec-08 | Hello I have a 4 year old HLP6163w (also have 46")and recently the color wheel started to whine. So it wasn't to bad so we watched it while we waited for color wheel to come about two days before it came in the TV started to do recycle of the power it would come on for about 2-3 minutes then off then it would just keep recycling so I left it off until got the color wheel. I have replaced the color wheel on my 46" so didn't think there would be a problem with this one. After I got the wheel in and put it back together the TV would come on with a couple of clicks but the Lamp lite was flashing so since I had not replaced the Lamp I order it and replaced it, here's where the problem lies I am still getting the same indications, TV comes on I can here the clicking and the Lamp lite is still flashing. Any help greatly be apprecieated. Paul |
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New member Username: OspreyeaglePost Number: 1 Registered: Dec-08 | I've read through the postings from about APril 08 to present. Am hoping that Ovadoggvo or an experienced DIYer can comment on my conclusion. - HL-R5067W - Screen image is mostly green static/horizontal lines but a faint image can be made out - cable TV source - all channels show the same static - the PIP is crystal clear and I can change cable channels within the PIP just fine - NO cable box used - channels numbers, TV guide menu, weak/no signal boxes are crystal clear - DVR player and DVD player, component/source 1 and component/source 2 respectively, show the same green static as cable TV - TV is almost 3 years old, original bulb - I'm guessing that this is a DMD board problem even though the lamp is old since the PIP and other items are clear - Agree or disagree? Thanks in advance for your help. |
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New member Username: OspreyeaglePost Number: 2 Registered: Dec-08 | ADDITION THE THE PREVIOUS POST I watched the TV last night via the PIP and then tuned in the same station on the main screen to hear the audio. I noticed in the main screen (at first glance the screen appears to be green horizontally oriented static but if you look hard you can make out the cable TV image) that the source image takes 5 to 10 seconds to update, as if the progressive scan is broken. Maybe this helps to pinpoint the cause of the problem. |
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New member Username: OspreyeaglePost Number: 3 Registered: Dec-08 | ADDITION TO THE PREVIOUS 2 POSTS: - Turned the TV on to watch the PIP and the full screen came on and all worked just fine - The next morning the problem came back so disconnected the power - Later that night turned the TV on and the problem had disappeared; Turned it off by remote but did not disconnect the power - The next morning (today) the problem came back so I've disconnected the power and will check again later - Reread the recent posts and seems that the models that end in WAX/XAA (like mine) and were purchased around Dec 2005/Jan 2006 (like mine) have similar problems, e.g., Chris Wyneken - I contacted Samsung executive support earlier and they agreed to extend the parts warranty but not labor and a tech will show up in a few days with the DMD board - I'm now wondering after rereading the recent posts whether the problem lies with the the Light Engine instead or in addition to the DMD board and will suggest to repair tech to bring a Light Engine as well - Hoping that some of the previous posters with similar WAX/XAA models can update their posts on how things turne dout. I'll post how my situation turns out when resolved |
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New member Username: AllisterPost Number: 1 Registered: Dec-08 | Hi there, i have the Samsung TX-P2734... The problem i am having with it is that everytime i hit the volume button on the remote or TV, it shuts off. I thought it was that maybe the wires got faulty , but the voume button seems to work fine when i scroll to the menu options. It only shuts down the TV when i have to turn up the volume. Everything else on the TV works fine. Its almost Christmas and i dont have the time or money to buy another TV. Can you please assist me. . . Thanks and happy holidays. |
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Silver Member Username: JumpbackPost Number: 160 Registered: Nov-05 | Well, my problem of extremely loud buzzing or humming from the back of my Samsung is now fixed. Seems it wasnt a fan, but the color wheel broke. Just once section of it and I guess it threw it out of balance...hence the god-awful noise eminating from my set. The nice part is 1 it was covered under the extended warranty 2 I held up the phone to the noise and he diagnosed the problem over the phone and brought the new wheel out with him 3 He fixed it in 20 minutes so now I am ready for the bowl season to begin! |
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New member Username: RosencrantzPost Number: 1 Registered: Dec-08 | HI, We have a 42" Samsung DLP with a problem that is getting progressively worse. TV is about 2 yrs old, last few months we get a "black screen with a blue box stating weak signal" on the HD channels. The standard channels were okay except now the image locks-up or goes blank during commercials or fast moving pics. The DVD and VCR inputs also now have similar issue. Any info would be appreciated. Bought at Tweeter Etc. in New England, unfortunately, they went belly-up last month. Thank you. |
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New member Username: Blane1212Post Number: 1 Registered: Dec-08 | i have a Samsung hln617 61 inch DLP, four years old. after about 15 minutes the picture starts to flicker. we have replaced the bulb but that didn't help. any ideas?????? |
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New member Username: OspreyeaglePost Number: 4 Registered: Dec-08 | Problem solved: A tech replaced the digital board and my problem seems to have resolved. Samsung warranted the board and I paid $325 for labor/travel. Thx to all who posted their problems and solutions previously. |
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New member Username: Ken_perryPost Number: 1 Registered: Jan-09 | Hi, My issue is with my 50" samsung DLP model number HL-S5087W (the sticker on the side lists it as HL-S5087WX/XAA). About 5 days ago I started getting what I would describe as static or snow on the screen. It started as random pixels scattered around here and there across the screen. Over time though it has gotten worse to the point where after playing a few hours of Gears2 on Xbox 360 about 1/6 of the screen is a quivering mass of static/snow. At first I thought it may be related to the power circuit as my house is old and has some older wiring. The entire entertainment center is run off of a power cleaner. I ran an extension cord from another room off of another circuit breaker but that didn't clean anything up. I tried various inputs but this static/snow comes through on the hdmi (satellite receiver), components (xbox 360, and dvd players), and AV (nintendo wii). So I have isolated the problem as the TV. When I opened the back door the lamp is on and appears fine. The diagnostic menu reveals that the hours on it are 3661. This is the first lamp since I bought the unit in Jan 07. The fan on the DMD board is running and I cleared any dust off of the blades. There are no crazy clanking/whirring/scraping/breaking glass noises. After reading through this and other sources and a coffee fueled night of google searching I think I've identified the problem as the DMD board. Now I'm wondering which part it is I need exactly as there are pages of DMD assy's out there. The part number on the sticker which I see along the upper part of the DMD housing is BP94-02269A. Now is http://www.partstore.com/Part/Samsung/Samsung/HLS5087WXXAA/Samsung/Samsung/BP940 2269A/New.aspx the correct part? This is also listed as an alternative part http://www.partstore.com/Part/Samsung/Samsung/BP9601581A/New.aspx Which is the correct part? And is this the DMD board which I need to replace or do I need another DMD assy listed on that site. There are a bunch ranging from the $200s through the $800s Thanks for any and all help and have a happy new year |
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New member Username: WdtiesiPost Number: 1 Registered: Jan-09 | Hi all, I have an hl-s5088w Samsung and the tv guide, volume control and channel onscreen suddenly no longer work. I have called Samsung, and they are unable to help. I also contacted our ext warrenty guy and they say change the bulb-not covered under the warrenty. PLEASE HELP.....this drives me crazy.....has anyone else had this issue?? Thanks for the help! |
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New member Username: KhansenPost Number: 1 Registered: Jan-09 | Hello, I have a Samsung hl-r4667w. I bought it about 2 yrs ago. Last week I turned it on to the regular cable input and the screen came up as a frozen, unclear image. There were lines running through it but the sound quality was good. Both the remote and buttons on the tv were non-responsive and the only way I could power it up or down was by pulling the plug. The TV would also go into a reboot cycle, turn on, freze the screen, and attempt a reboot after about 1 minute. I was finally able to get the input to HDMI1 (my DVI input) and it worked fine. since the DVI worked but none of the analog parts didn't I thought there might be a bad connection somewhere on the analog board so i pulled the back open, hit the entire inside with a can of air, pulled the board out and reseated all connections. When I reconnected the TV everything worked fine. Startup chime, the time from power on to picture was fine, no lines fading or anything else. 3 days later now and the problem has returned. This time however the issue has spread to my DVI input. When I went there to watch a movie(since I thought it worked) the movie played fine for about a minute and then froze and the TV shut itself down and went into a reboot cycle. Rather than open the insides and start tearing away at my TVs innards i figured I could use some helpful direction on things to try before I give up. Thanks. |
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New member Username: Daulton09Post Number: 1 Registered: Jan-09 | My two yr old HL-S4666W has white spots on the screen. Started with one a few days ago and has grown to five. Help please. |
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New member Username: Layne420Post Number: 1 Registered: Jan-09 | I have a samsung HLS4266. After getting the 3 blinking lights on the front, I replaced the lamp. The new lamp worked for about a minute and tv shut off. Tried to power it back on but nothing. Replaced the ballast and color wheel but nothing happens. When I try to power it on it buzzes and powers on and off a few times then quits. The lamp never tries to come on. I sent the lamp back to see if it was bad but it checked out ok. Help before I have to pay outrageous fee for service call. |
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New member Username: DaveflyrPost Number: 1 Registered: Jan-09 | Hi, I have a 5 year old HLN467WX that has just over 10,000 hours on the original bulb. the problem i am having is diagonal lines across the screen. the spacing of the lines can vary between 1-2 inches. and some times can almost be vertical. this only occures when i uses either my satalite reciever or my vcr and either the s-video or video imputs. the picture is perfect when i use my samsung dvd player and the DVI imput. I have read through a few pages of this thread, and have not found any one else with this exact problem. if any one can help i would appreciate it, thanks.  |
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New member Username: XrufisxPost Number: 4 Registered: Jan-08 | LENS-ILL,E1;LCD,BSC7, LENS-ILL,E2;LCD,BSC7, LENS-ILL,E3;LCD,B270, LENS-ILL,E4;LCD,BSC7, Television is, HLP4668W The main fish eye lens, I scratched it. Please which part is to be replaced. One of those? ALSO Peter H Hsu's problem I had as well on my DLP (refer to the photo in Jodi's post on Monday, November 03, 2008 - 02:02 pm. That photo was taken by me, on Sunday, January 27, 2008, thanks for the credit Jodi, I certainly got a kick out of my photo being reposted.) ANYWAYS Some rubbing alcohol on a lint free soft cloth to clean the DMD chip face.(<-- helped or not, undetermined) An upgraded DMD board cooling fan (<--- helped or not, undertermined) REMOVED the color wheel but kept all the wires plugged in and rested where it was free to spin and received PERFECT black and white picture. Later, new color wheel, problem fixed. Perfect color picture. |
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New member Username: DanielsauPost Number: 9 Registered: Aug-08 | Hello all! I have a Samsung HLR-5067W model, 50" dlp. I had some issues with the model power-cycling, on and off - it would turn on, show the picture for 5-10 seconds, and then restart. I have serviced almost everything in it - ballast, color wheel, lamp, dmd board with no success. I finally brought it in for professional service, and they have found the digital board to be faulty. I'm finally ready to throw the towel in on the set and replace it...but I'd like to offer it out for parts for anyone who needs them. The lamp and color wheel are all brand new. The dmd board and ballast are original now, but are clearly working properly since the new ones that I installed (and later removed) performed exactly the same way. So...anyone need parts for a HLR-5067w model (or others in the series)? I'm willing to sell the parts pretty inexpensively, feel free to post here or email me at danielsau@gmail.com and I would be happy to work out a deal... THANKS! |
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Bronze Member Username: SottildePost Number: 13 Registered: Jun-08 | Layne - you may want to try a new color wheel HOUSING. Sometimes the sensor that keeps track of the speed of the color wheel goes out and can cause it to power up normally for some time then cut out. It happened to me on my HLS4266. |
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New member Username: SeanpondersPost Number: 1 Registered: Jan-09 | ovadogg... My HLN507w seems to have finally hit the dust. After scanning this forum it seems as though I have a bad DMD board, or maybe a bad color wheel, or maybe any other of the bad 3,000 parts in the HLN's. Here's my problem: TV was working fine, then all the sudden the screen started to flicker...it hardly flickered at all but progressively got worse. Eventually the whole screen turns a white color but you can still see the video and hear the audio fine. The colors are just not their natural colors, they are white or black, some are even a purplish, and the image flickers continuously...then it works fine again? I noticed I hear a chirping type sound when the TV starts to "flicker" and the image messes up, when it returns to normal the strange sound stops (this is what makes me think it is the color wheel). Originally I thought my bulb was going bad, so I ordered one and replaced it. Turned my DLP on and success! Or so I thought, but then after about 30 minutes the same problem started again. Now whenever my TVs off and I turn it on, it works great for about 15-30 minutes before the problem starts back up (could it be a heat problem?). Would the color wheel even have an effect on the problem I am having (I do hear a fan noise in the back of my TV, although its not extremely loud or a screaming sound, its definitely loud enough to notice...especially when the flickering starts.) I could use some help diagnosing the problem. Right now I plan on buying a color wheel and installing it myself, seeing as 1. its the cheapest part, 2. it seems to be a defected part, 3. I do hear a fan type noise coming from the back of my tv. I'm just worried that I'll put $100 into a color wheel (after I just paid 100 for a new bulb) and have that not fix the problem, then buy a new DMD board ($300) and have that not fix the problem. Like someone else said I really dont want to be nickel and dimed by this TV. So should I attempt to fix it or just throw it in the dumpster and move on.  |
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New member Username: XrufisxPost Number: 5 Registered: Jan-08 | Sean, Remove your color wheel, but keep it connected. Set it someplace where it will still spin freely but not interfere with anything. If the picture stays perfect but black and white past your the time limit you described, then replace the wheel AND housing it is attached to. |
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New member Username: SeanpondersPost Number: 2 Registered: Jan-09 | Peter, First off, thanks! You're a God send. I thought for sure I'd have no other choice but to throw out my beautiful DLP. I did exactly what you said. So far so good, the TV has been playing perfectly in black and white for the past 4 hours with the color wheel removed (but still connected). I also used a can of decompressed air to remove a lot of the dust. So luckily it seems that the color wheel is the problem. I was really scared by the negative flickering image I was getting, I thought for sure it was the DMD board. Do you have a suggestion as to where I can purchase a new color wheel and housing for my HLN507w? here's a link of one I found, I'm not sure if it comes with the housing though? http://www.partstore.com/Part/Samsung/Samsung/BP9600250B/New.aspx?ModelMfgName=S amsung&ModelBrandName=Samsung&ModelNumber=HLN507W |
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New member Username: XrufisxPost Number: 6 Registered: Jan-08 | Sean, Yes that is combined, wheel and housing. Try ordering and installing and let me know how it goes. |
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New member Username: SeanpondersPost Number: 3 Registered: Jan-09 | I noticed there are two different verisons of the color wheel for the HLN507w, the BP96-00250A and BP96-00250B. Upon closer inspection of the picture my resembles BP96-00250A (it has the blue/white wire coming off of it). So now I am confused as to what version to get? Or even if it matters? The version that resembles mine (BP96-00250A) doesn't come with a housing unit I don't think? here are the links: http://www.partstore.com/Part/Samsung/Samsung/BP9600250A/New.aspx http://www.partstore.com/Part/Samsung/Samsung/BP9600250B/New.aspx |
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New member Username: XrufisxPost Number: 7 Registered: Jan-08 | I'd give a good visual inspection of the entire piece you removed from the television. in my case, 00250B looks pretty identical to what I removed. So reguardless of the two offered. Get what ever resembles your original equipment most. (In my opinion) |
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New member Username: Djlj0531Post Number: 6 Registered: Sep-08 | Okay, major problem. I have a Samsung HLP6163W DLP TV. DM Board went out and I purchased a replacement board. Tried to install it today and one of the connectors, 4 white wires and 1 blue wire, that connects from the lamp to the board right next to the 2 connectors from the color wheel, fell apart. Two wires came out as I was trying to remove it and eventually the whole plastic housing fell apart. Can anyone assist with a part number or where to get a new one? |
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New member Username: Grace100Post Number: 1 Registered: Jan-09 | I have (or had) a HLR-5667w. Had fuzzy green cast screen with five or six wide vertical lines on the screen. A few months before it had also developed the 3 inch shadow on the left hand side. The fuzzy would fix itself if you unplugged it but would come back after a while. Fortunately, I purchased the service contact (on year four of the contract). The geek squad came out and said the following. The shadow on the left is due to a failing light tunnel engine. The fuzzy screen and vertical lines could be one of two depending. If it is not effecting the screen displays then it is the main board. If it is affecting the on screen displays then it is what I think he said was the light engine DMD board. With these two failures and the light needed to be replace totaled $1600 dollars (geek fee added). The middle company between Geek and Best Buy determine it was not worth fixing. Took it back to BB and exchanged for a Samsung LCD 52" 850. I am happy with this deal. The Geek rep recommeded the LCD. He also said you better get the service contracts since the parts are all made oversees and getting cheaper and less reiable. Also I noticed that BB is carrying fewer and fewer DLPs. |
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Bronze Member Username: MxxmikexxPost Number: 11 Registered: Sep-08 | does anyone else find if funny that this webpage is filled with ads from best buy and other stores advertising samsung tvs on sale? advertising a TV that is giving everyone on this webpage problems. Really makes me wanna go out a buy another samsung!!! |
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New member Username: SgoconnorPost Number: 3 Registered: Jan-09 | Hello, I'm having an issue with a Samsung HLR5067w 50" DLP. When I turn it on I don't get the startup chime anymore and the LAMP LED flashes for about 1 minute with no picture. The LAMP light stops flashing after about two minutes and then the red "Stand By/Temp" LED stays solid (as if the unit was shut off). Again no chime if I try to shut it off. I don't think its the bulb because I can see the backlight off the screen and the light from behind the unit. None of the remote controls respond, such as menu, source, etc. nothing comes on the screen. when I press them on the remote the TIMER LED lights for a second and goes away. Any ideas? |
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New member Username: Richardb1938Maumelle, AR US Post Number: 1 Registered: Jan-09 | Hi. I purchased a LN46A750 approx. 4mths ago. Hooked to Directv HD/DVR w/HDMI cable. The tv will make a distored noise, picture will freeze and then go to black. Pic will return after 5-10 seconds. lst thought was a Directv receiver problem, but they installed a new receiver and the problem still exists. Any thoughts would be very helpful. Getting ready to contact Samsung! Thanks much. |
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New member Username: Djlj0531Post Number: 7 Registered: Sep-08 | Whew, I found the lead connector for the ballast to the DMD board, ordered it and now my TV works! WoooHooo! Thanks Ovadoggvo for all your help. I have one more issue, though. When I got the TV back up and running, the picture is about 3 inches too low. Looks like the mirror moved somehow when I was fixing it. I tried getting into the Service Mode and adjusting the picture position but that didn't fix it. I don't want to have to do a bunch of hit-or-miss so if anyone knows how to fix this issue please let me know. Thanks again! |
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New member Username: Paul_bJacksonville, Florida UNITED STATES Post Number: 2 Registered: Dec-08 | I posted the below comment on Dec 21st and I have not got an answer, since then I have replaced the balast and still no TV. could the new light be bad if so is there a way to test it. Peter if you have time can you look at this see if till what the problem might be. Hello I have a 4 year old HLP6163w (also have 46")and recently the color wheel started to whine. So it wasn't to bad so we watched it while we waited for color wheel to come in, about two days before it came in the TV started to do recycle of the power it would come on for about 2-3 minutes then off then it would just keep recycling so I left it off until got the color wheel. I have replaced the color wheel on my 46" so didn't think there would be a problem with this one. After I got the wheel in and put it back together the TV would not come on but a couple of clicks an the Lamp lite was flashing so since I had not replaced the Lamp I order it and replaced it, here's where the problem lies I am still getting the same indications, TV comes on I can here the clicking and the Lamp lite is still flashing. Any help greatly be apprecieated |
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New member Username: JeepmikeForth Worth, TX United States Post Number: 1 Registered: Jan-09 | I replaced my color wheel thanks to this forum, but now after a few months my TV goes black on really bright scenes. We cannot even watch a hockey game anymore in HD. It does it less in Standard Def, but still does it during really bright scenes. Some times it goes black and says no input, but then it comes back on after the bright scene is over. I've tried replacing the bulb, but it did not change a thing. Still blacks out on bright secenes. Any Ideas? |
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New member Username: VdturnerScranton, PA USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Jan-09 | Thank goodness for the knowledge of people on here! But I've read and read but can't find what I'm looking for. I have an HLR5067WX/XAA with a date of Apr '05. We have a bad color wheel and my problem is I can't find the right part# for it. It is definitely a FAB and it has 7 color "pies". I had called D-M.com to ask them and he said if it had a silver bearing INSIDE of the CW they don't carry it - call Samsung.com. But if it's a gold bearing INSIDE it is one they carry. So I look at the wheels on Samsung.com and this is what they show: Part Number Description Specification Price Add to cart BP96-00674A COLOR WHEEL (PHILLIPS) FOR CHASSIS (L3) SVP-50L3HR $90.75 BP96-01103A COLOR WHEEL / FOR CHASSIS (L6) L6,SERVICE $122.14 ... and both of these are listed as being compatable with my tv. Which one is the correct one to order???? Thanks everyone! |
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Bronze Member Username: SottildePost Number: 14 Registered: Jun-08 | I have an HLP5063W that I'm pretty sure has a bad bulb. Does anyone have a bulb lying around from their troubleshooting efforts? I need the BP96-00826A / BP96-00823A / BP96-00608A, with enclosure, or the larger circular bulb (E23h) without enclosure. My email is auralis (@t) fastmail (d0t) us. Thanks all. I'll be buying it soon so if you have one get to me! |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 209 Registered: May-07 | Don Lawrence, Try http://Discount-Merchant.com/ they have DLP parts now and the pricing is reasonable. It seams like they are selling just about everything related to DLP's. It's interesting. I've seen replacement FAN's, door switches, sensor boards, aux boards, and even separate peices of the light engine and COMPLETE light engines at very reasonable prices. Look: http://www.discount-merchant.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=projection Their DMD's seem to be $180-$200 which could save a lot of TV sets on this forum. Sean, Based on your model, the BP96-00250A seems to be the right one from my personal experience. Know I've replaced over 20 of that model color wheel alone! |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 210 Registered: May-07 | Paul Beardsley, I appologize for the late reply as I was out of the country and I've fallen behind at work so I have not had much time in the last few weeks to help! But here I am again. The problem you are describing, in my opinion is the ballast. Part Number BP47-00016A for you TV. The clicking means that the ballast is grounding out the spark. The flashing light you see is probably comming from the ballast and not the lamp. When it grounds out, the little illuminating diode lights up. You may want to keep the back cover off and tape down the sensor and see where the spark is comming from. Also, check the voltage going to the ballast if you have a multimeter. It should read ~380V . If you have ~320-340V it may be your power supply (very unlikely). Power supplys and other parts for your TV set can be found here: http://www.discount-merchant.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=HL-P6163w $59 for the secondary PS .. Samsung doesn't even stock it! I'm loving this. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 211 Registered: May-07 | Mike S., DMD board. Try Discount Merchant, they may have it for around $180.. otherwise samsung and part store want $600-$800. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 212 Registered: May-07 | Vikki, Order this: http://www.partstore.com/Part/Samsung/Samsung/BP9600674A/New.aspx It comes with the complete housing. Most likely it will be the SILVER bearing one picture on the left here: http://www.discount-merchant.com/product-p/samsung_bp96-00674a_colorwheel.htm If it is the silver colorwheel, check the jumper on the DMD board to make sure it is removed. Here is the breakdown of the BP96-00674A: FDB BEARING (GOLD BEARING) - DMD BOARD JUMPER = ON (or SHORTED) . . FAB BEARING (SILVER BEARING) - DMD BOARD JUMPER = OFF (or CLEAR) |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 213 Registered: May-07 | Johnny Marx, I don't recommend testing a set with a used bulb. It may not react the same in your TV. Older bulbs require more starting power and if your TV is older it may not turn it on. You may start to dig into deeper repairs when not necessary. Your lamp can be found here: http://www.discount-merchant.com/Samsung-BP96-00826A-OEM-Replacement-DLP-LAMP-p/ samsung-bp96-00826a-lamp.htm |
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New member Username: XrufisxPost Number: 8 Registered: Jan-08 | LENS-ILL,E1;LCD,BSC7, LENS-ILL,E2;LCD,BSC7, LENS-ILL,E3;LCD,B270, LENS-ILL,E4;LCD,BSC7, Television isan , HLP4668W The main fish eye lens is the part that needs to be replaced, I scratched it. Please of those which parts is where im talking about?. Is it even one of those? |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 214 Registered: May-07 | Peter Jones, Does this look like the right one? http://www.discount-merchant.com/We-provide-factory-original-parts-worldwide-p/1 069070-samsung.htm The optical lens? Is the TV 4663 or 4668? The above is for the HLP4663W ... I think D-M is your only hope for the part. I know Samsung doesn't sell it unless it's sold with the complete engine for $1000. I had a similar issue with one that the back mirror (the one behind the screen) had broken and had scratched the lens. I couldn't get the part anywhere! But now D-M seems to be a viable and reasonable source. |
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New member Username: XrufisxPost Number: 9 Registered: Jan-08 | It's a 4663, for sure. Yeah, that big lens in the upper left corner of the part is what I need and scratched up. Thank you. With i could buy just the lens though. Thanks for your help. |
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New member Username: IanscoteSan Diego , CA Post Number: 1 Registered: Feb-09 | Hi Ov, I've been reviewing the forum for a few days since my Samsung HLn507Wx started acting up but thought I'd just ask you directly... Everything works as it should but after about 10-15 minutes the picture begins to flash or flicker sporadically. It seems like it's the darker areas of the picture that flicker the most...I replaced the bulb last year and cleaned the fan yesterday thinking it was maybe a heat issue, no luck. From what I read I'm leaning toward board replacement but wanted to be ask your opinion. Also have you had any success finding a refurb or cheaper board than samsungparts.com? Thanks a ton and keep up the good work!! |
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New member Username: IanscoteSan Diego , CA Post Number: 2 Registered: Feb-09 | Oh I don't know if it matters but it's hooked up to the Component inputs... Thanks! |
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New member Username: Paul_bJacksonville, Florida UNITED STATES Post Number: 3 Registered: Dec-08 | Ovadoggvo In your post you said the balast was most likely bad. I replaced the balast and now there is only one click but the lamp light is still flashing on the front. Where are the test points located where I can check for the 380v as you stated in your previous post? Also is there some where I can get a schematic so I can check these and other voltages? Paul https://www.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=2&post=1689541#POST1689541 |
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New member Username: RangoPost Number: 1 Registered: Feb-09 | Hey Everyone... My problem is fairly minor compared to everyone else's (i hope) so here it is. I have an HLR4264WX and on all sources on the far left side of the screen, I have what looks like a shadow. Its a vertical line, about 3 inches wide, and if i look closely i can see some colour to it. A mild green against the black boarder of the tv, and moving towards the center of the screen if fades into red then into blue. BUT, there is still a perfect image on the rest of the tv, as well as behind the shadow. I have no other problems to help diagnose it...the bulb starts up fine, the picture is crisp and detailed, ...just a shadow over the left side. Top to bottom, 3 inches wide, and perfectly semetrical. |
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New member Username: JcanabalJacksonville, FL United States Post Number: 1 Registered: Feb-09 | Have a Samsung HL-R6168W and the screen seems way darker even after compensation by increasing the brightness. Can anyone help, Please? Thanks |
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New member Username: Kc2cagCentennial, CO Post Number: 1 Registered: Feb-09 | Problem with my Samsung HL-R4266W: About a month ago, the set started making loud "static" noises coming from the speakers upon startup. The noises lasted a second or two at most, then the set worked normally. Two weeks ago, after the loud static burst, the set would not start. It would go through about three attempts at starting up, then just present the famous set of 3 blinking lights on the front power button. The only "click" I hear during the startup attempts sounds like a small relay. OK. Perhaps the lamp or ballast? I started with the lamp, since the set's almost 3 1/2 years old. Came in today from D-M, and ... the same problem exists after replacing the lamp. Is is worth investing in a replacement ballast at this point to continue troubleshooting, or is there perhaps some way to test the ballast while in the set? |
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New member Username: DcsforumPost Number: 1 Registered: Mar-07 | I'm having a new problem with an HLR5067W. The set is now showing either green vertical bars on the screen or green squares in a checkerboard pattern in some cases. The PIP is 100% perfect and unaffected. Also, HD cable channels are crystal clear and unaffected. The green bars/squares are present on: -All digital cable channels that are not HD -All over-the-air channels including HD broadcasts (weird) -AV inputs (DVD/VCR) -Composite input from the cable STB The set is 4 years old or so and has 7500 hours on the bulb. This problem just started this week and I've found links on the web to others with the same exact symptoms although nobody has posted a definitive fix yet. I did try an EER reset in the service menu and that didn't fix it. Neither did unplugging it overnight. Anybody have any help to offer? |
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New member Username: VdturnerScranton, PA USA Post Number: 2 Registered: Jan-09 | OG~ you are the man! I had finally found someone at partstore.com and finally got my confusion fixed. Also on D-M I had never clicked the brass wheel so never saw all the other info that part had... Maybe D-M should put it on all their color wheel displays?! One good thing out of that is I read HOURS on this board and had already seen your jumper on/off situation... but from reading hours of problems and fixes and troubleshooting I am pretty comfortable how to repair it! Thanks for your help! Vicki |
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New member Username: LoumarchRosemont, PA United States Post Number: 2 Registered: Dec-08 | OK I'm officially stumped. A few weeks ago my Samaung HLS4666WX/XAA DLP TV stopped working. It would power up for about 30 seconds and then it would shut down and I would get a blinking light that said "temp/standby". I replaced the lamp first and the TV came on for 15 minutes and then had the same problem, so I replaced the ballast, I still have the same problem. Should I try a color wheel or do you think it's the board? Thanks for any help you can give me. |
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New member Username: DeanpPost Number: 1 Registered: Feb-09 | Hi I am still having the same problem with my HLR5688W,After about 2hrs of watching tv the screen splits goes half black on the right side and half picture on the left side, this can temporarily be fixed by turning off the tv and turning it back on. I know this can't be good for either the ballast or the bulb. please help ov. deanp |
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New member Username: DilldappPost Number: 2 Registered: Jun-08 | I finally gave up on fixing my Samsung HLR6168 after I replaced the bulb, the lamp ballast, the color wheel and the power board. I bought a new TV and it certainly is no Samsung!!! If anybody is interested in the new parts mentioned, please contact me. I will let them go for a nice discount. Thank you and good luck to all getting your TVs running again |
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New member Username: CaptjimboNorthfield, Nh United States Post Number: 5 Registered: Jan-09 | this is a great forum it helped me get my sony g/w fixed for free this time its my cousins samsung model hlr5067wx/aa pushed the power button and tv didnt turn on, there was a sound like a whistling noise, kinda like a bomb falling in the old ww 11 movies, then nothing, does this sound indicative of a power supply issue? any help appreciated I thought after my optical block issues with sony, I would next get a samsung, but after all these posts maybe not, thanks for any help or direction for me to go in |
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New member Username: Bannas12Post Number: 3 Registered: Jan-09 | ovadoggvo- model: HLP6163W My tv just shut off one day, it is 3 years old. From what I have gathered...first replace the lamp, which I did. I bought a phillips lamp....still nothing on startup. I purchased a samsung replacement ballast. Tv still acts the same on startup. You can hear the fan, but the bulb is not powering up.I took the ballast and lamp out, checked the color wheel. It is turning, no noise and looks fine. I have re-seated the lamp many times and also used the code mute(menu)1-8-2-power. Still nothing! The lamp light flashes for 10-15 seconds and it shuts down, then restarts.The fan runs, but the lamp is not powering up. I have checked the ballast with a voltage meter, there is no power going to the ballast. The tv turns on, but the lamp does not fire. Is there an internal power supply? BTW The new and old ballast does not have power. |
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New member Username: NstowfisPost Number: 1 Registered: Feb-09 | Hi folks. Great thread here with lots of useful info! After reading through a bunch of posts and ovadoggvo's fantastic summary in the September archive, I believe I need a new color wheel but I wanted to just throw my symptoms out there first, since I haven't seen anyone with the exact same combination as me and I don't want to order/replace the wrong thing. I have a Samsung HLP6163WX/XAA that's just under 4 years old. 3 years ago I had my color wheel replaced under warranty; it had been making an intermittent whining noise with no other symptoms. A little less than a year ago I replaced the lamp myself with one of the new-style smaller lamps (plus adapter) from Discount-Merchant.com. In that case, the TV would not turn on at all and I got the 3 flashing lights. Replacing the lamp fixed the problem. This morning my wife was watching it and she said it suddenly started making a loud, low-pitched buzzing noise and the picture turned black-and-white, only very dim & washed-out, and it was jerking from side to side. She turned the TV off and saw the 3 flashing lights. Since then whenever we turn it on, the sound comes on but no picture and we get a click, a quick whine and then the loud buzzing noise which starts and stops, sometimes accompanied by a click and the sound turning off and then on again. I opened up the lamp cover in the back, taped down the kill switch and tried it. I do NOT see any light coming from the lamp, and the noise sounds like it's coming from the middle of the TV, to the left of the lamp, which I think is the color wheel. That was my first guess based on my wife's description, but now I'm reading about lamp fans and ballast and light tunnels; plus the first time we had a bad color wheel it had been making a whining noise for weeks without affecting the picture, while this time we had no warning. Right now I'm tempted to buy this BP96-00674A color wheel: http://www.partstore.com/Part/Samsung/Samsung/BP9600674A/New.aspx and install it using jangro's instructions here: http://www.jangro.com/a/2006/07/24/samsung-dlp-replace-color-wheel/ Am I barking up the wrong tree here? Thanks in advance! |
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New member Username: Bannas12Post Number: 5 Registered: Jan-09 | I decided to take my color wheel out and look to see if the sensor had a burn on it, from reading previous post, if the sensor has gone bad it will not let the DMD board fire the ballast. Upon taking the assembly of the color wheel apart, I found that one of the lenses on the color wheel had shattered. You could not tell this from looking in the small hole that the bulb shines into. It is the original, so it has the silver bearing, so I cannot order it from discount-merchant.com. The gold bearing one will not fit correctly. Which is a bummer because it is $69.00 for the color wheel itself http://www.discount-merchant.com/product-p/samsung_bp96-00674a_colorwheel.htm I have found it on partstore.com for $96.95 but it doesn't have the gold bearing. http://www.partstore.com/Part/Samsung/Samsung/HLP6163W/Samsung/Samsung/BP9600674 A/New.aspx Anyone against me purchasing it there? Or have another site to buy it from? It is a HLP6163W |
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New member Username: JeepmikeForth Worth, TX United States Post Number: 2 Registered: Jan-09 | ovadoggvo, I replaced the DMD board and I still have the same problem, Screen will go black during really bright scenes and sometimes says no input. What do you think? What should I try next? Also, Discount Merchant was awesome they had the part for $180. I had busted one of the cables and bought a whole wire set from them to replace it and it was only $24.00. ovadoggvo Posted on Sunday, February 01, 2009 - Mike S., DMD board. Try Discount Merchant, they may have it for around $180.. otherwise samsung and part store want $600-$800. Mike S Posted on Saturday, January 24, 2009 - 04:21 pm: Edit Post I replaced my color wheel thanks to this forum, but now after a few months my TV goes black on really bright scenes. We cannot even watch a hockey game anymore in HD. It does it less in Standard Def, but still does it during really bright scenes. Some times it goes black and says no input, but then it comes back on after the bright scene is over. I've tried replacing the bulb, but it did not change a thing. Still blacks out on bright secenes. Any Ideas? |
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New member Username: Scott367Buffalo Grove, IL USA Post Number: 1 Registered: Feb-09 | I have a 50" Samsung DLP. Model HLT5075S, 3 months ago the lamp went bad and I replaced it. Now when I turn the TV on nothing happens on the screen. When the TV is turned on the Lamp flickers on and off for about 5 seconds then just shuts off. Then the STBY and LAMP light blink on the front of the TV. I thought this was most likely the ballast because the lamp looks good and is able to flicker on and off. So I replaced the ballast. Still the same problem. Next I am leaning toward the color wheel, but I was told by Samsung and discount-merchants.com that the color wheel does not effect the power going to the lamp in any way. I understand that if the TV senses that the color wheel is inop that it will then shut everything down, but the lamp flickers right when power is applied. Is it possible that the main power supply is bad? Any other suggestions? |
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New member Username: Scott367Buffalo Grove, IL USA Post Number: 2 Registered: Feb-09 | I have seen about 3 or 4 people posted the same problem as in my last post, but nobody wrote a solution that they found. Has anybody else had this problem resolved? |
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New member Username: Bannas12Post Number: 6 Registered: Jan-09 | I'm not a Tv Tech by no means, but I pulled my color wheel out just to look at it thursday. One of the color wheels what shattered. What I found from here is, if there is somthing wrong with the color wheel, it will send a signal to the DMD board and shut the ballast down thus killing the power to the lamp. It might be worth taking it out to look at. I have a 61' samsung. It took about 20 min to pull out. Hope that helps. |
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New member Username: Kc2cagCentennial, CO Post Number: 2 Registered: Feb-09 | I think Mike is right about the color wheel not allowing the ballast to fire the lamp. My lamp will not light, and unless I have two simultaneous unrelated failures, I am hoping that a replacement color wheel will fix it. My color wheel exploded into hundreds of pieces and a cloud of glass dust a while back, and I'm awaiting the replacement next week from Parts Source. |
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New member Username: Scott367Buffalo Grove, IL USA Post Number: 4 Registered: Feb-09 | Where is that switch that tells if the door is open? Is it in the little panel for the lamp, or the big panel on the back of the tv? |
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New member Username: Zethery08Post Number: 1 Registered: Feb-09 | I have a Samsung 56in DLP TV 3 yrs old that has been having some problems. Currently when I turn the TV on it plays for about 30 seconds freezes for about 10 seconds screen then goes blank and then the process starts all over again. During this time the remote does not work at all except for about the first five seconds that the TV is on then it will owrk again after the screen goes blank and starts over. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 228 Registered: May-07 | Ian Cote', The flickering problem you are refering to, does it happen on all inputs? or just one? My guess is that it happens on all inputs including ANTENNA mode. In antenna mode (or TV mode) it will probably take longer as it does not require heavy graphic processing. If you answered yes to my above question, then your DMD board is most likely failing. You can pick one up from http://www.Discount-Merchant.com for $180-$200 .. One thing I have noticed about their site is that it's very particular when you are searching for your model. I hope they fix this soon. For example.. In the search bar on the left hand side of their website you shoudl try your model with dashes and without dashes.. I.E.: HLR5067WX or HL-R5067WX also try leaving out the ENDING.. I.E: HL-R5067 or HL-R50 DMD ............ A lot of times their are similar models that take the same parts. I would check their high resolution photos to verify that the part you are ordering is in fact the one you need. I have noticed that they ship the SAME EXACT part in the photo... I mean, the amazing thing is that the photos are UNIQUE per part so it is very hard to have mix ups if you look at the photos closely. It's unfortunate that their search and browsing are not as suffisticated as their photographing and inventory. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 229 Registered: May-07 | Paul Beardsley, The points you should be checking are the points of the POWER leading INTO the ballast.. It takes a white connector (the bigger of the 2 connectors).. The smaller connector is the data connector which is managed by the DMD board. The DMD board sends a ~5V signal to the ballast which tells it to turn on. I can tell you how to short your ballast to make it a "Constant ON" but this may damage your ballast and/or other components of your TV if it's not done properly, so I better not... You should have 380V there.. If you do, your Power Supply is working fine.. If you have ~320V you have a weak/damaged Power Supply. If you have 0V, you have an issue with another component that is not allowing your Power Supply to turn on, or your Power Supply is dead. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 230 Registered: May-07 | Teryn Hogan, Even though your problem seems simple, it's not. The problem you are describing is due to a collapsing light tunnel. This is a very common problem with the HL-R series DLP's from Samsung. Good news: It can be fixed by buying the optical block from D-M for $179 which has the "Light Tunnel" integrated... looks something like this: http://www.discount-merchant.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=optical+block Bad News: I don't see your TV's model number listed there... You may want to keep checking their site as the TV gets worse and worse to see if they get it in.. then swoop it up. |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 231 Registered: May-07 | Juan M. Canabal, Your problem could be your Ballast or Lamp.. I would start with a fresh PHILIPS brand lamp... Again people... I stress PHILIPS! Many people on this forum have probably had problems with their TV's recently after changing to an 3rd Party generic lamp. If the arc gap is not exact to the nano meter, it will damage your ballast wich may cause you to damage other components. Also, generic lamps at times run at a temperature that your TV is not made to run at... This will cause the light tunnel to collapse early. You may save a few bux right now, but in the long run... your in for some surprises. Your lamp can be found here: http://www.discount-merchant.com/Samsung-BP96-01073A-Replacement-DLP-Lamp-p/sams ung-bp96-01073a-lamp-oem.htm Ballast, if need part number = BP47-00027A Let us know how it goes! |
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Silver Member Username: OvadoggvoPost Number: 232 Registered: May-07 | Tom Kocialski, It definately is worth investing money into fixing in this economy! The static was probably comming from your color wheel falling off balance and hitting the enclosure wall. Your color wheel part number is BP96-00674A Costs $70-$100 (less than the lamp).. Be sure to buy the correct one for your TV as there as 2 types as shown here: http://www.discount-merchant.com/product-p/samsung_bp96-00674a_colorwheel.htm |
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