Geo Metro XCON build
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Silver Member Username: MakinblakMonroe/Monticello, La/Ar Post Number: 899 Registered: Oct-10 | SSA XCON d2 12" going ported into a 1996 Geo Metro 3 door, 3 cylinder. I am running a Pioner DEH-P7700mp HU and 4x MB Quart FSB-216 6.5" components. 2 in the doors and 2 right behind the seats in the side panel. They have passive crossovers and 2 tweets on the windshield and 2 tweets on the back side windows. The amp will be a Sundown SAE 1200d. Things will be going slow due to time and money constraints. I appreciate any suggestions or opinions. Stay tuned! |
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Silver Member Username: MakinblakMonroe/Monticello, La/Ar Post Number: 900 Registered: Oct-10 |  |
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Silver Member Username: MakinblakMonroe/Monticello, La/Ar Post Number: 901 Registered: Oct-10 |   |
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Silver Member Username: MakinblakMonroe/Monticello, La/Ar Post Number: 902 Registered: Oct-10 |   peel n seal  "Peel n' seal" from Home Depot on left, "fat-mat no logo" on right |
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Silver Member Username: MakinblakMonroe/Monticello, La/Ar Post Number: 903 Registered: Oct-10 |    |
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Silver Member Username: MakinblakMonroe/Monticello, La/Ar Post Number: 904 Registered: Oct-10 |  peel n' seal on right, fatmat no logo 70 mil on left    |
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Silver Member Username: MakinblakMonroe/Monticello, La/Ar Post Number: 905 Registered: Oct-10 |     |
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Silver Member Username: MakinblakMonroe/Monticello, La/Ar Post Number: 906 Registered: Oct-10 | |
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Silver Member Username: MakinblakMonroe/Monticello, La/Ar Post Number: 907 Registered: Oct-10 |     |
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Silver Member Username: MakinblakMonroe/Monticello, La/Ar Post Number: 908 Registered: Oct-10 | That last one is the Kenwood 12" that came out of the 1989 Kenwood tower. Made me lol. And here is it's spider.   31 mm Xmax 1 way. Not sure how close I got it here... |
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Silver Member Username: MakinblakMonroe/Monticello, La/Ar Post Number: 909 Registered: Oct-10 | I still need to design and build box. I was thinking about mayber aero ports, but I dunno yet. I also need an alternator upgrade bad! The stocker is a 55 amp. I talked to the alt man, we working on something kinda. Money is tight right now. That alt upgrade (shooting for 200 amps) plus a small battery under each seat and an Optima yellow-top under hood and big 3 will do it for the electrical. 1 run pos and neg of 1/0 OFC from engine, blah blah. I will probably finish up the headliner before starting back in with the audio. Got something special planned for the headliner. Gonna cost $$ I have CLD and MLV all over, and the body is dead as doodoo |
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Gold Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 1739 Registered: May-09 | Lovely setup, not sure if you are driving the comps on HU power but for SQ it needs to be done through an amp, this would be great: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23877_MB-Quart-ONX4.60.html Even the cheaper 50x4 $89 will do fine. Great sub and amp, the sub will be run under rated power so you can go above recommended net volume or at least to the top of their range if you want some extra output. |
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Silver Member Username: MakinblakMonroe/Monticello, La/Ar Post Number: 910 Registered: Oct-10 | Thanks for the input, and yea, the HU is pushing the comps. Def needs an amp, but i was thinking they were big $ for a 4ch so i havent given it much thhought lately. I am going for 2.75 cubes net, sub and port back, tuned to 30 or so. I would like to try aeros, but i know nothing about them. Or possibly a square port, cuz they look good. I have a question: what differences in sound will my small cabin cause? Like with cabin gain and what not. What changes should i think about to make the innstall ideal to such a small cabin? |
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Gold Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 1741 Registered: May-09 | Small cabins boost the lows more than large ones, so one has to pay attention on the box design to maintain musicality. Flared aero ports have greater sound quality than slot ports but usually when tuning low they become too long for most boxes, that's why many hatchback boxes featuring aeroports have the port firing driver's side, if you haven't tested boxes on your car, chances are that you will need to build more than one box to get the results you want. |
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Silver Member Username: MakinblakMonroe/Monticello, La/Ar Post Number: 911 Registered: Oct-10 | Is there a good calculator for aero ports? Like where I can plug in the dimensios and it tells me the diameter/length? |
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Silver Member Username: MakinblakMonroe/Monticello, La/Ar Post Number: 912 Registered: Oct-10 | I found this site to calculate the lenght of aero port needed: http://www.psp-inc.com/tools.html I am going for 2.75 cubes tuned to 34. The calc calls for 1x 4" flared aero 8.727" long. This gives a total port area of 97.1 (7.727"x4") Does this sound good? I am hoping the diameter is big enough to avoid port noise. Also, I entered the net volume of the box before port and sub displacement into the calculator. Is this the right way to do it? |
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Gold Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 1744 Registered: May-09 | Visit this: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AsFyH9hGFoZydE9TaThIeGdTd3Nib1ViWm5 4NnNkWGc#gid=0 it's a spreadsheet but you need to download it to use it, can't be used online, it takes care of all displacements for you, has some learning curve but once you got it is incredibly accurate. To download just go to file>download as> (pick a format you want like .xls). |
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Gold Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 1745 Registered: May-09 | The PSP is good but no wood/port/driver displacements are accounted for so the least mistake and you are off. |
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Silver Member Username: MakinblakMonroe/Monticello, La/Ar Post Number: 914 Registered: Oct-10 | Found these 2 different surround tears!!! I = I was thinking of using vinyl cement to stick some thin vinyl on the top and the bottom of the surround, then play it till she really blows. Either way, I will need a whole new cone, coil, surround, spider, and leads, right? I have never reconed before. Can anyone think of a better fix??   |
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Gold Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 1748 Registered: May-09 | http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/products/xcon-recone-service-kit.html Damn expensive though. |
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Silver Member Username: MakinblakMonroe/Monticello, La/Ar Post Number: 915 Registered: Oct-10 | Might you know if the competent do-it-yourselfer would have the resources to do the recone? like would I need a special alignment tool to center the coil? Seems awful tricky... Also, if I ghetto-fix it, do I run the risk of damaging the pole peice and motor due to coil rub and subsequent burnout? I know it is near impossible to get burnt coil out of the coil gap... |
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Gold Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 1749 Registered: May-09 | They give you an option to send it. I have reconed but not with a kit, it boils down to properly center the whole thing which is easy to do with the dust cap off. I thought I read they sell the glue separately. I don't think that you can damage the motor, besides it would sound so awful that you realize immediately if any rubbing is taking place. Being the kit so expensive I'd just send it in for repair. |
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Silver Member Username: MakinblakMonroe/Monticello, La/Ar Post Number: 917 Registered: Oct-10 | Yea, but it would cost extra for shipping this heavy mofo. How do you center the cone properly? Would I need an alignment tool? It just seems sketchy to me... |
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Silver Member Username: MakinblakMonroe/Monticello, La/Ar Post Number: 918 Registered: Oct-10 | Oh, and this cone doesn't really have a dust cap, so...yea |
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Gold Member Username: Joe1234Post Number: 1752 Registered: May-09 | To avoid typing anything: |
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Silver Member Username: MakinblakMonroe/Monticello, La/Ar Post Number: 931 Registered: Oct-10 |   So I fixed the surround with vinyl cement and vinyl patches. It works quite well, but I hope that the added thickness and stiffness on 1 side of the surround won't slowly pull the cone and coil to that side. |
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Silver Member Username: MakinblakMonroe/Monticello, La/Ar Post Number: 932 Registered: Oct-10 |   These sounded like CRAP in the body panel, so I put them here. It is sealed underneath with plastic walmart sacks stuffed with poly-fill to form a type of poly-fill gasket perimeter underneath. I plan to do this differently in the future. |
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Silver Member Username: MakinblakMonroe/Monticello, La/Ar Post Number: 933 Registered: Oct-10 |  The diamond plate will be my switch panel. Stay tuned.  I followed the advice of Joe and got an amp for my comps. MB Quart RA640.4 pushing 80wrms x 4 @ 4 ohms. Full specs here http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_67883_MB-Quart-RA640.4.html |
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Silver Member Username: MakinblakMonroe/Monticello, La/Ar Post Number: 935 Registered: Oct-10 |   |
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Silver Member Username: MakinblakMonroe/Monticello, La/Ar Post Number: 936 Registered: Oct-10 |  Sealed my door panels with this free air-tight material! I used 3M Super 90 spray adhesive.  I glued this aluminum flashing to the ceiling to add rigidity and sound deadening. The glue I used was 3M Super 90 spray adhesive. Tought stuff. |
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Silver Member Username: MakinblakMonroe/Monticello, La/Ar Post Number: 937 Registered: Oct-10 |   I was very happy with how this was going until 1 day when my car was in the hot sun for a few hours. The weight of the flashing pulled the "peel n seal" sh1t right off the roof panel. The higher quality stuff stayed stuck. Lesson learned: Do not buy CLD from your local hardware store. So now I have to get some more of the quality CLD and do it all over before I can continue my headliner project. If buying CLD, make sure the mastic material is butyl rubber, and not some synthetic mystery mastic plastic sh1t. |
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Silver Member Username: MakinblakMonroe/Monticello, La/Ar Post Number: 939 Registered: Oct-10 |   Got the headliner prepped and here's a little teaser |
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Silver Member Username: MakinblakMonroe/Monticello, La/Ar Post Number: 941 Registered: Oct-10 |  Here's my lil motor haha |
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