What amp for 2 IDMAX D2V3's??

 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 20
Registered: Jun-11
I have an 1000W IDMAX right now powered by an alpine mrd-m1005 at 2 ohms. I want to get another IDMAX and i'm trying to decide if I want to get another of the same amp or 1 big amp around 2000W. What should I do?
 

Gold Member
Username: Kaerfpl

Spencerport, NY USA

Post Number: 1131
Registered: Jun-06
Audioque AQ2200D:
http://www.audioque.com/AQ2200D-Amplifier_p_31.html
 

Platinum Member
Username: Glasswolf

Columbia, South Carolina

Post Number: 14347
Registered: Dec-03
Unless you're an SPL competitor, and unless you have a much larger than stock alternator, you probably don't really need 2Kw of power. I've hit in the mid 140dB range in a car with music driving a pair of 12" subs with 320WRMS total. Anyway, 1200-1500 watts RMS from a mono amp should be plenty. If you have the single sub at 2 ohms now, get another of the same coil config with the second sub, and buy an amp that's 1 ohm stable.
Audioque, Sundown Audio, Zed Audio, all make viable options.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 22
Registered: Jun-11
One of my friends can get me a TC Sounds 3000 15". How would that be off of 2000W compared to the 2 idmax 12's? Or would 2000W be too much. I am definitely an sq guy.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 23
Registered: Jun-11
I also have 4 gauge stinger wire.....will that be ok for something around 1500W?
 

Platinum Member
Username: Glasswolf

Columbia, South Carolina

Post Number: 14353
Registered: Dec-03
If you're a SQ guy, I'd recommend that 15" but you'd probably be just fine with around 1200-1500 watts. Keep in mind that most cars have a stock alternator size of about 70-90 Amperes, and a class-D 2Kw amplifier will require up to 200+ Amperes of current at peak output. Your car will also need about 50-60A of current itself for things like your ignition system, power accessories, etc. Now you won't always be using the amp at full volume of course, if you in fact ever do, so the amp will typically draw less than that 200A of course, but it's still something to keep in mind. Big power requires upgrades to your charging system.
Also, for 2Kw you'll be required to move to 1/0 AWG wire. That 4 gauge is good for up to 125A if it's OFC. Less if it's CCA, and that amperage peak drops as the length of wire increases.

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 24
Registered: Jun-11
So you would say the TC sounds better than 2 IDMAX?....and would 1500W make it pound hard enough because its 2000 rms and I dont want to turn my stereo up insanely loud to get decent bass...what amps would you recommend for 1500W @ 2ohms (i think its 2) that are true to their watts too
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 25
Registered: Jun-11
I'm most likely gonna get the Hifonics BRZ2400.1
 

Platinum Member
Username: Glasswolf

Columbia, South Carolina

Post Number: 14356
Registered: Dec-03
I'm a believer in the use of fewer subs, with larger cone area, myself. The belief that smaller subs are "faster" or more responsive is a myth. What makes a sub accurate, quick, and linear is the motor structure and the Bl curve for the particular sub, which is why I use a single 18" Fi Q in my car with ~1500WRMS, instead of several smaller subs. Larger subs do however usually offer the advantage of much greater cone area combined with more moving mass and thus a lower Fs, so you can tune a ported box lower and the sub will resonate and move air like mad if you happen to be a fan of that absolute bottom audible octave.
That's my preference. Everybody is different.
As for power, don't get too carried away with numbers. Remember that even double the power, say 1500 watts to 3000 watts, is only a gain of about +3dB on a reference audio system, and to get double the audible volume, you'd need +6 to +10dB gain, which is closer to 4 to 6 times the power or more. The short of it is that going from 1500 to 2000 watts will gain you maybe 2dB in output at peak volume, which is perceivable but not tremendous. 1dB is supposed to be the minimum perceivable change in volume to the human ear after all.
With big amplifiers, as I already noted, you'll also need a bigger alternator and bigger power and ground wiring, which is more expense. Especially if you have to pay someone else to install any of it.

Now, with all of that aside, if you like the AQ2200, then go for it. It's a sweet amp, and on a 15" TC Sub, you'll have more than enough power at any volume for music.. and I say for music because I'm not an SPL guy. I didn't really even enjoy doing SPL vehicles when I was paid to design and build them. I like loud as much as the next guy, but I like it to stay inside the car, and I like to be in the car with it.. so loud to the point of discomfort is where I draw the line for myself.

As I often tell folks on here, the less you hear the stereo outside the car, the more of it you'll hear inside the cabin. Efficiency has as much to do with how loud a stereo gets as the power put into the system.
 

Bronze Member
Username: Ccleaven

Post Number: 26
Registered: Jun-11
Thanks man that was awesome....so if I get the Hifonics 2400 amp will I be ok on my 4ga and stock alternator and everything?....also If i'm gonna do a sealed box for the tc 3000 what size would you recommend
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