Component Speakers
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New member Username: Rockon84Post Number: 4 Registered: Jun-04 | I am willing to spend $600 on a good set of component speakers for my car. I listen to mostly rock music. What would be a good option, and would I need an additional amp to power them if my head unit is a 4 channel 200w? I appreciate any recommendations, thanks! |
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Bronze Member Username: JamtochristianWilliamsport, Pennsylvania USA of course! Post Number: 86 Registered: Mar-04 | Here is My advice, I know many people say that Alpine have such great speakers and components, but they're moderately overpriced. Yes, to really get some descent sound, you're going to need an amp. Now if you're only looking for one set of components, and are willing to spend around 800 dollars, you can pick up a set of focal utopia 165W's, they have UNBELIEVABLY nice sound. If you don't wanna spend that much which i can understand, I'm going to recommend the Infinity Perfect 6.1 or 5.1 Component speaker set. Granted, you can get those for about 220 a set shipped on ebay, but they're real nice. I have a set in my Mazda. Although be careful, because if you're planning on putting a component set in your door, you may need to make modifications, and its insane sometimes to make it all fit. TRUST ME, I modded my 5x7's in my Mazda to fit Infinity 6.1's, i shutter at the thought of doing that again. |
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Bronze Member Username: MattlBolingbrook, Illinois USA Post Number: 81 Registered: Jun-04 | First, your HU only puts out about 20W/channel RMS, which won't be enough for any decent speakers so you'll need an amp. Unfortunately, the amp you'll need will be directly proportional to the cost/quality of the speakers. Most better speakers need more power and therefore a bigger (more expensive) amp. My personal recommendation, a set I love, are the Focal K3E 3-way components. When sound quality is what matters most, you can't beat 'em for the price (expect $300-$400). However, you're going to need 80Wx2 to power them. Which I'll recommend an appropriate Hifonics or high-end Kenwood. That'll run you about $150. Finally, the install will be a bit crucial. Depending on your mounts, expect anywhere from $100 to $300 for it. Let us know what kind of car you have and we can get more specific. The Infinity Kappa Perfects are the next-best thing to keep budget a little tighter: a quality install is worth more than the difference between B+ and A speakers. -Matt |
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Silver Member Username: Jonathan_fGA USA Post Number: 650 Registered: May-04 | Out of 6.5" component sets with your budget, I recommend the following: 1.(My favorite) Dynaudio 240GT Soft, even response, smooth sound, extremely accurate and revealing http://www.woofersetc.com/subcatmfgprod.asp?0=270&1=271&2=1085 2. Focal Utopia 165W. Also very accurate, brighter tweeter and more midbass, don't find them quite as true to the music. http://www.woofersetc.com/subcatmfgprod.asp?0=290&1=292&2=1085&6=2 3. Diamond Audio HEX S600s Good midbass, smooth sound, soft tweeter, not quite as accurate (but very accurate nonetheless) as the ones above. http://www.woofersetc.com/subcatmfgprod.asp?0=266&1=267&2=1085 All great components. You'll need a good amp to push them, but that's a given. Get an amp that's 100RMS per channel, the Diamond Audio's take a bit more power, I recommend 125-150W RMS per channel. |
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New member Username: Rockon84Post Number: 5 Registered: Jun-04 | Thanks for all the advice it has been extremely helpful. During some research I have heard about Focal alot and heard great things. Now the Focal K3E 3-way components look good, but most of what I have heard have been about the $800 pair. Are the focals still a good bet if I can't afford the expensive ones? I've also checked out DynAudio, CDT Classic, JL Audio, MB Quart. Furthermore, I hear that depending on what music you listen to determines your ideal speaker. I listen to a lot of hard rock and am looking for a heavy sound but also very clear as well. The other part of the picture that is looking unavoidable is getting a separate Amp. I currently only have a head unit that is 50X4 watts. Do you have any suggestions for this as well without breaking the piggy bank? I have a 2001 Hyundai Tiburon and am looking to put the components to go in the front. Again the amount I am looking to spend is around $600. I know I am asking alot but I value your opinions very highly because I could do all the research in the world, but without experience you never know what you are getting. Any advice would be very helpful, I appreciate all of your comments!! |
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Bronze Member Username: JamtochristianWilliamsport, Pennsylvania USA of course! Post Number: 89 Registered: Mar-04 | A budget of 600 for just the speakers is descent, I'd probably go with the Dynaudio's If you don't wanna get the Focals. They're righta around your budget, (less an amp) and they're a descent component system. |
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New member Username: SpirntcarcowboySeal Beach, Cal USA Post Number: 5 Registered: Jul-04 | What do you guys think of Alpine SPX-177R with an Alpine 9820XM with Rockford 851 Amp? |
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Bronze Member Username: MattlBolingbrook, Illinois USA Post Number: 87 Registered: Jun-04 | Speaking for the collective group: "eh". -Matt |
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gerardo Unregistered guest | Hi guys, I'm very confused. I just have an Alpine cda 9815 head unit(60x4), an Alpine amplifier mrv f540 that runs at 80x4 RMS and I tried 2 set of components alpine Type R 176A, I mean 4 speakers on each door but they run at 50 RMS,they neither have a loud sound and they get distorted. So which components should I buy if I like rock music and if I want a very loud and clear sound on my ford explorer? Thank you |
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Silver Member Username: MattlBolingbrook, Illinois USA Post Number: 106 Registered: Jun-04 | Were those speakers ever hooked up to the HU directly? I only ask because that's a perfect match, power-wise, and they sound blown. -Matt |
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Gold Member Username: GlasswolfNorthWest, Michigan USA Post Number: 3742 Registered: Dec-03 | the 9815 puts out 27wRMS x 4 |
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Silver Member Username: MattlBolingbrook, Illinois USA Post Number: 108 Registered: Jun-04 | yeah, I'm thinking he clipped 'em. -Matt |
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gerardo Unregistered guest | Hi guys, the other problem is that I don't feel a good bass on these alpine TYPE R components, I just want a good bass from 2 sets of components without needing to buy a subwoofer. Do you think alpine's TYPE X are a good choice or should I try the JL AUDIO XR components? Or which brand has the best bass in components? Thank you |
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gerardo Unregistered guest | Hi guys, the other problem is that I don't feel a good bass on these alpine TYPE R components, I just want a good bass from 2 sets of components without needing to buy a subwoofer. Do you think alpine's TYPE X are a good choice or should I try the JL AUDIO XR components? Or which brand has the best bass in components? Thank you |
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New member Username: SocalsupercrewMenifee, CA Post Number: 3 Registered: Jul-04 | I want the same thing.. I went and listened to the infinity perfects and wasn't that impressed. They were in a wall and not in a vehicle, don't know if that made a big difference. I have read a lot about CDT, finally found a local place that sells them, hopefully I can hear em. |
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Silver Member Username: MattlBolingbrook, Illinois USA Post Number: 130 Registered: Jun-04 | The Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1s are the best price/performance 6.5" components you can get ($200). Comparable sets: * Diamond Audio s600a - $325 * CDT CL62 - $300 * Boston ProSeries 6.5 (tweet like Infinity) - $300 * Focal 165V2 - $275 -Matt |
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Silver Member Username: Jonathan_fGA USA Post Number: 700 Registered: May-04 | Wait for the Resonant Engineering X.X.X. series components to come out (couple of weeks) if you want wicked midbass, 12mm x-max on the midbass/midrange driver, I don't know any component set that can compete with that, supposed to have a flat response as well. They take 100W RMS. You could also consider getting a good component set and add midbasses, or look at 3 way component sets. Check them out at http://www.reaudio.com |
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Silver Member Username: Jonathan_fGA USA Post Number: 702 Registered: May-04 | Wait for the Resonant Engineering X.X.X. series components to come out (couple of weeks) if you want wicked midbass, 12mm x-max on the midbass/midrange driver, I don't know any component set that can compete with that, supposed to have a flat response as well. They take 100W RMS. You could also consider getting a good component set and add midbasses, or look at 3 way component sets. Check them out at http://www.reaudio.com |
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Bronze Member Username: Bruhneedluv2Post Number: 71 Registered: May-04 | this is stupid I feel, but I have to ask two things: would clipping occur if the volume is turned up half way on underpowered speakers? and to stop clipping from happening, an amp would need to provide at least the rms rating of the speakers used, correct? |
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Silver Member Username: Jonathan_fGA USA Post Number: 711 Registered: May-04 | No, ALL amplifiers clip. Clipping is when the amp is trying to put more power into the load than it is capable of doing, resulting in a square waveform. That being said, an amp can clip from voltage rail "sagging" due to lack of current, or the gain being set improperly. It also can clip when you're trying to push it too hard. Half volume shouldn't make an amp clip if the gains are set correctly. You can underpower speakers without problems if you're careful to avoid clipping. The benefit of more power is that the amp can reach higher volume levels, and produce a your preferred volume with less effort, meaning that when you're listening to the speakers at a comfortable level, a 100W RMS amp will produce that volume more cleanly and effortlessly than a 50W amp. So, your system can be as loud as you want(and louder) without putting as much strain on the amplifier, resulting in less distortion and more headroom. |
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Silver Member Username: Jonathan_fGA USA Post Number: 713 Registered: May-04 | Oh yeah, clipping can also occur when the signal is clipped, like when a head unit is pushed beyond it's limitations. Generally, head units begin to clip after 3/4 volume, give or take a little depending on the unit. |
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New member Username: SocalsupercrewMenifee, CA Post Number: 4 Registered: Jul-04 | I found the CDT CL 62's at few different places online for 150, the CDT CL 62i for 199, how hard are these to image to get to sound right? |
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Silver Member Username: Jonathan_fGA USA Post Number: 725 Registered: May-04 | Not bad to image at all, I mean the off-axis response is good on CDT classics. CDT makes great component systems. It really depends on how far you want to go with it, do you want to keep the door mounting or go with kick panels? I'm guessing you have a truck by your name, so if you stick with the stock door location (good to keep the music up a tad, kicks will be block by your leg among other things), then mount the tweeter close to the woofer and it should sound really good. |
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New member Username: SocalsupercrewMenifee, CA Post Number: 5 Registered: Jul-04 | In the new Fords, they have a seperate opening for the tweet about 3/4 up the door, so it should be a little bettter than having it at the bottom. Is there a big difference betwwen the CDT HD and the classics? |
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Silver Member Username: Jonathan_fGA USA Post Number: 727 Registered: May-04 | That mounting will be good, the HD are an upgrade from the Classics, they have a nicer sound in my opinion, smoother and a bit more natural, but I encourage you to go try a set before plopping the money down. The tweeters on the HD are a bit smoother and the midrange is more detailed (in my opinion). |
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Tanveer Unregistered guest | What do you think about the MB Quart Speakers. I am considering Mb Quarts, Kicker or Rockford Fosgate speakers. Can you recomment which speakers would worth my money? |
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Silver Member Username: Jonathan_fGA USA Post Number: 730 Registered: May-04 | I don't know which lines you're referring to or what your budget is, but I'd take the MB Quart over the others you mentioned. My opinion, though, as I've said above, always go listen to all of them and get a feel for what you like the best. |
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New member Username: SocalsupercrewMenifee, CA Post Number: 6 Registered: Jul-04 | I went and listened to the CDT's today and WOW. The dealer showed me his car with the Euros and the upstage system, with Cl 6x for rear fill. Needless to say, my budget just increased a lot! And After hearing the upstage system, I have to have it too. I think I am going to get the HD components though, cant afford the Euros. Now I need to find a more powerful amp also, they take 175 watts! |
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Silver Member Username: MattlBolingbrook, Illinois USA Post Number: 149 Registered: Jun-04 | Little better than Rockfords, eh? LOL -Matt |
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Silver Member Username: Jonathan_fGA USA Post Number: 733 Registered: May-04 | The HD's are very nice. The upstage system is cool too, many IASCA competitors have put supertweeters up high for many years to raise the soundstage, the difference is that CDT has made it very easy to do so, while competitors have to design the crossovers and choose the attenuation level themselves. You'll have a great system with those components, I'm positive you'll be very happy with them. |
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New member Username: ByterPost Number: 4 Registered: Jul-04 | Okay, I've been reading the posts and want to try to CDTs with a an upstage system. I found an HD62 component system for $325. Is that a good price? Also, their web site shows the extra upstage tweets and cross over for $69. I read its not that hard to install. I hope so! After all this my system in my '99 Accord EX will be: * CDT TW-19/LP Image Enhancement System on the pillers * CDT HD62 Componet Set on the Door, tweet on the high side of the factory 5" hole. * McIntosh 5.25" component set modded to fit in the 6"x9"'s back deck holes * Infinity basslink 200w 10" sub * 1 McIntosh MC425 50w x 2ch sub at .005% THD driving the front speakers * Another McIntosh MC425 like the one above to drive the McIntosh speakers on the rear deck. I am guessing the imaging tweets will tie into the HD62's somehow so I can use the same amp. Does anyone have any words of wisdom before I start buying? Thanks. |
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Silver Member Username: MattlBolingbrook, Illinois USA Post Number: 199 Registered: Jun-04 | You are going to be very underpowered for that front set (which are 180W RMS); you may want to consider a different amp. The price is really good and everything else sounds right. The upstage will be a swap for the xover and the extra tweets, no real effort. -Matt |
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New member Username: ByterPost Number: 8 Registered: Jul-04 | Matt, I followed your advice; popped the door panel off and measured. Besides the power issue, they won't fit. I called CDT and asked for the measurements. HD62s Required depth: 2.75" Required speaker hole width: 5.6875" Speaker max width: 6.6875" 1999 Honda Accord EX w/ baffel Max Baffel width (measured exterior to exterior): 6.25" Safest Baffel cut: 5" Narrowest you can cut baffel 5.625" (leaves only 1/4") Baffel front to glass: 2.75" Existing sheet metal cut: 5" Depth Stock speaker adds to baffel: .375" There is no room beyond what the stock speaker adds, which is .375", so max depth to window appears to be 3.175" I'm guessing you have to leave at least .25" for window clearance so the maximum dimension for a replacement speaker appears to be 2.875" Back to the drawing boards for me, but like you said, I would have been underpowered, even with HD52s. What would you suggest as an alternative? Infinity doesn't have enough mid for my taste and the tweets are too harsh. The polk DB6500s are sure easy. What should I compare them to? If anyone needs it, the factory rep said the the dimensions of the HD52s are: HD52 Required depth: 2.3125" Required speaker hole width: 4.4375" Speaker max width: 5.5" |
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Silver Member Username: MattlBolingbrook, Illinois USA Post Number: 204 Registered: Jun-04 | You can get the Focal 165 V Slim components, which are 2 3/8" deep and run about $250. They're 50W RMS out of the box, so that's probably your best bet. -Matt |
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New member Username: ByterPost Number: 9 Registered: Jul-04 | Thanks. I wanted to look at the 165k2 slims but didn't find any in town. I looked at the online drawings at www.focal-america.com and it looked to me like they only saved 4mm or so on depth over 165V2s. I must have read them wrong. Anyway I wound up with JL Audio XR650-Si's for a lot less money and liked the sound a touch better than the V2s at the power I'll be pushing. Incredible sound in the XRs for such a small package. How did they do that? Next Saturday comes the install. I have two amps and only a need for one so I'm going to bi-amp the speakers. I've read all I'll gain from doing this is finer control over the mid and tweet setting, but hey, when you have a spare amp, why not plug it in? |
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New member Username: ByterPost Number: 10 Registered: Jul-04 | oops. v2s above should be k2s. |
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Silver Member Username: MattlBolingbrook, Illinois USA Post Number: 212 Registered: Jun-04 | I suggested the V2 Slim, which are 12mm (1/2") more shallow than the straight V2s. There aren't any K2 slims.  -Matt |
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